2000 Camaro z28 LS1 6spd - I have a rear main seal leaking so im deciding to go ahead and get a clutch kit stage 2 or stage 3 beginner owner 138k miles

 

Get a light weight clutch as you can afford. At a minimum do a aluminum flywheel.

 

Would a stage 2 or stage 3 already be lighter? Im wanting to spend around $500-$700 on a clutch kit a buddy said get a clutch kit from ebay but im kinda worried about getting one from there i just wanna know a decent brand from around that price?

 

OP

while I don't run one, many on this site like Monster clutches. They make a few "levels" depending on your HP/TQ output of your car

IMHO stay with a steel FW.

 

Really depends what you want out of a clutch. Stock-like, performance, etc..

If a stock clutch fits your needs, it's usually the cheapest and have good longevity.

 

To be honest you about need to double your clutch budget to get a good one. But the right one is rebuildable and can save you money over the years.

These are a new clutch that may be priced better for you.....i have never tried them but it may be worth a shot.

http://www.centerforce.com/products/...-clutch-series

 

I like this one http://monsterclutches.com/1998-2002...12-inch-clutch all i have now is a slp lid and slp bellow and a skip shift and this comes with everything except for the slave cylinder right? And would fit straight into my car with no problems? Also Thanks for you guys is help

 

Correction has included slave for $70

 

Heads up on this. Monster S2 is a good clutch choice, but quite often, the master cylinder will go, and you can replace it and still have it not work well, and it'll make you think the clutch is bad.

Get the tick master cylinder (yes, it's expensive), as it fixes a ton of clutch issues that are known factory defects. You'll end up around $1K for a clutch, new master, new slave, and remote bleeder, which is almost a must on a F-body, but you'll never worry about your clutch again.

The F-body master is a known weakness, and if you are upgrading the clutch, don't be surprised to find the master is no longer any good.

 

The clutch still works great at 138k, was previous owned by a rich guy who bought it for his wife to drive on a sunny day. I figured since i was replacing a rear main seal and at that mileage, plus me driving and planning on upgrading alot on that car in the future i might as well upgrade the clutch, since the tranny is gonna be out. Thanks for the advice im using some of my tax money so im getting the level 3 clutch and with your advice the Tick master etc heard it was a great clutch from other post and forums Thanks for the advice

 

Good luck..I personally wouldn't just jump into a stage 3.

 

A big part of choosing a clutch is knowing how its going to be used. The LMC is a fantastic clutch but its definitely designed more for road racing than the drag strip. The exception to that would be using it on a big torque car to lighten the shock to the tires on launch, helping to get you off the line with less wheelspin.

If he isn't going crazy with the power, then a Dual Friction would be a good choice as it offers increased holding but drives like stock. It should also easily fit in his budget.

If he's going big power later then we always recommend our DYAD. It's a multi disc clutch but the pedal effort isn't significantly increased over stock and its quiet and will hold up to 1300 lb-ft of torque.

Feel free to shoot us a pm if you have questions. Good luck!

 

This ^^

I just spent the last several weeks doing ridiculous amounts of research on almost every clutch and hydraulic thread on LS1Tech. After everything I read, you need to make sure you have budgeted for a few things outside of the clutch/flywheel/PP alone.

A new slave Cylinder is a must with every clutch replacement as well as a new Pilot Bearing/Bushing.

If you go with the Monster kit you can add a slave for only $70, they normally run $120+ if you buy it separately. GM P/N: 24264182 (Cheapest place to buy it by itself that I found was WS6Store) unless you get it with a kit like Monster has. Technically the Monster Slave isn't a GM Part but Steve told me its very comparable to the unit GM has built by AP.

Any kit you buy you want to make sure it includes a new Pilot Bearing (or bushing depending on preference) The bearing could potentially destroy your input shaft on the transmission if its not replaced.

Quick rundown on Bearing vs Bushing - Bearing is steel - It can cause catastrophic damage if it fails (not being replaced) while a bushing doesn't last as long, it could potentially cause input shaft issues because the T-56 wasn't designed for it, but if a bushing fails, won't cause catastrophic damage to the input shaft like a bearing could.

I personally went with bearing only because that is what the T-56 was designed to be used with.

Quick rundown on Flywheel - Full weight DD or Drag - Stay at full weight - Race/Auto-X then Lightweight, this really comes down to preference but if you want it like stock then stay at Full Weight. There are entire threads devoted to debating this particular topic. I can go into more detail if you'd like.

Colorado Speed is having a sale right now (Check the vendor section) or if you can budget for a new Master (HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended) Tick Performance can put together an entire clutch swap package for around $950, Maryland Speed has got great prices on full swap packages as well.

You're easily looking at $700 for a good clutch package with everything you need and if you can swing the Tick Master Cylinder will put you closer to $1k range but everyone who has gotten one raves about how great it is.

My first choice based on all the reviews (I'll have my own up soon) is Monster (1YR Warranty and all), several of the Corvette guys are running ACT Clutches and have nothing but good things to say. I haven't had much experience with Centerforce but I remember them being the guys to beat about 10 years back and never heard bad things about them either. The only manufacturer I have heard several mixed reviews on (including my own bad experience) is Spec. I wouldn't recommend them.

Apologies for the wall of text, there is a lot of info out there, after everything I've learned hope this helps.

 

I'd throw an ls7 in there and call it a day, new slave, pilot bearing, and tick MC and have fun with it.

 

Another great choice if you're not doing high RPM dumps, that may fit your budget a bit better as well. If your stock flywheel can be turned instead of replaced, you could do an LS7 clutch/PP, GM or AP equivalent Slave and the Tick Hydraulics.

 

I test drove a LS1 with an LS7 clutch in it when I was clutch shopping. It feels heavy, for lack of a better word. Not quite as snappy on the throttle response, and it takes longer to slow back down from revving. It's like driving a truck engine with a manual transmission.

 

Very true, unfortunately though his budget will limit him greatly on choices. Monster Lvl 1 or 2 with Tick Hydraulics are probably his best bet but only if he can find the budget for it.

 

Drive the monster with the steel flywheel, it's heavier than the stock setup, its only lighter with the lightweight flywheel. Ls7 with the fidanza flywheel is a good setup for a street car with bolt ons. Same as stock, but a monster with the lightweight flywheel is lighter by like 6-7 pounds if I recall, so I imagine it drives very nice as well, with a nice price tag as well.