bleeding this damn clutch!
bleeding this damn clutch! read through a lot of threads but i just changed out the master cylinder and didn't bench bleed it, tried and tried to bleed this damn clutch and almost used a whole small bottle of fluid and never got a bit of clutch, is it possible to bleed or do i have to take the damn thing back off and bench bleed it?
just a new stock cylinder with drill mod, and the classic hold the clutch to the floor crack bleeder tighten and release clutch and repeat done it like 20 times and never got a bit of clutch
tried pumping it to, it takes lots of fluid. more then its letting out the bleeder, but not a bit of pedal, gonna try unhooking from slave and push the flap in and bleed the cylinder that way
My first stab at bleeding a stock master, I pumped it with the bleeder closed for 20 minutes before it started to build any pressure.
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that ******* disconnect lol. had a brand new plastic ring and fucked it trying to pop the line out the second time.....toke a long gas line and put a fitting on it stuck it in the resivoir and sucked the air out...have a clutch again, still a sticky pedal tho with a new clutch, slave, and master with drill mod
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Verdad Gallardo that ******* disconnect lol. had a brand new plastic ring and fucked it trying to pop the line out the second time.....toke a long gas line and put a fitting on it stuck it in the resivoir and sucked the air out...have a clutch again, still a sticky pedal tho with a new clutch, slave, and master with drill mod
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Joined: Jun 2015
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that ******* disconnect lol. had a brand new plastic ring and fucked it trying to pop the line out the second time.....toke a long gas line and put a fitting on it stuck it in the resivoir and sucked the air out...have a clutch again, still a sticky pedal tho with a new clutch, slave, and master with drill mod
I went through three stock masters in a very short period of time and finally went Tick.
I wouldn't say there's alot of air but could still be a few bubbles. When we hold the clutch down and crack the bleeder and retighten it and let the clutch back out it sticks down
Ok that's normal. After cracking the bleeder it takes a few pumps to build pressure again. If you just pump the clutch some without cracking the bleeder you might find you are ready to try it out.
So do you think I should crack the bleeder a few more times maybe. Only cracked it twice after sucking the air out like a mightyvac. I'm soon gonna say **** it and post phone my dyno tune and buy a tick....i just wanna be able to shift fast at high rpm again lol
All that Said, nothing beats a tick for high rpm creamy shifting goodness
I have pressure it just sticks when I get on the throttle. Fine at low rpm shifts. Running a spec stage 3 so I'm really leaning toward I need a tick to run the system haha
Heads up - pain in the *** to get it in. Removing steering shaft helps a bit. If you have long tubes it'll be even tighter. Word of caution - it is possible to over stroke the slave and blow the seals out. Once you get it in, here is the best method I've found:
1. After install, make rod as long as possible.
2. Leave line disconnected. Bleed the master with a Philips head pushing in check valve.
3. Every few clutch pushers, check and fill reservoir.
4. After three reservoirs worth of bleeding, air should be gone. Install hydraulic line to slave
5. Shorten adjuster rod all the way short.
6. Bleed slave per normal. Don't let reservoir run empty.
7. Lengthen rod to the point you can just barely shift smoothly through all gears with engine off.
8. Turn engine on, increase rod length until you can shift smoothly through all gears with engine on.
9. Street drive it and fine tune adjustment length. Lock the nuts on the adjuster.
10. Learn how to drive with narrower engagement window -takes a day or two. Once you get used to it you love it. Like beer
