trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

read through a lot of threads but i just changed out the master cylinder and didn't bench bleed it, tried and tried to bleed this damn clutch and almost used a whole small bottle of fluid and never got a bit of clutch, is it possible to bleed or do i have to take the damn thing back off and bench bleed it?

87blackbird

What brand master cylinder?
What bleeding technique are you using?

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

just a new stock cylinder with drill mod, and the classic hold the clutch to the floor crack bleeder tighten and release clutch and repeat done it like 20 times and never got a bit of clutch

87blackbird

I ask because Tick master cylinder have a check valve, I don't think stock masters do though.

Try pumping clutch. Pump clutch 3-5 times then hold it and open bleeder. Close bleeder, then release pedal.

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

tried pumping it to, it takes lots of fluid. more then its letting out the bleeder, but not a bit of pedal, gonna try unhooking from slave and push the flap in and bleed the cylinder that way

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

I used a Mity Vac years ago when I couldn't get my clutch bled. It worked in 30 seconds.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

This is your best answer. This is bench bleeding it in the car. About every three pumps, you'll need to fill the reservoir, and you will go through a LOT of fluid, but you WILL get your clutch unless the master is defective. Just like bleeding brakes - make sure your assistant doesn't move the pedal up while you're pushing in on the check ball.

My first stab at bleeding a stock master, I pumped it with the bleeder closed for 20 minutes before it started to build any pressure.

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

that ******* disconnect lol. had a brand new plastic ring and fucked it trying to pop the line out the second time.....toke a long gas line and put a fitting on it stuck it in the resivoir and sucked the air out...have a clutch again, still a sticky pedal tho with a new clutch, slave, and master with drill mod

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

you won't be the first to have a sticky pedal on a brand new stock master.

87blackbird

Maybe keep bleeding. If you are 100% there is no air I recommend a Tick Master Cylinder.

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

Would a little air do that? I thought for sure with a new clutch slave and master with drill mod this problem would be solved.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Yes air could do it. But it would take more than just a few residual bubbles.

I went through three stock masters in a very short period of time and finally went Tick.

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't say there's alot of air but could still be a few bubbles. When we hold the clutch down and crack the bleeder and retighten it and let the clutch back out it sticks down

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Ok that's normal. After cracking the bleeder it takes a few pumps to build pressure again. If you just pump the clutch some without cracking the bleeder you might find you are ready to try it out.

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

So do you think I should crack the bleeder a few more times maybe. Only cracked it twice after sucking the air out like a mightyvac. I'm soon gonna say **** it and post phone my dyno tune and buy a tick....i just wanna be able to shift fast at high rpm again lol

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Try not cracking the bleeder and just pump the pedal 20-30 times to see if it'll build pressure. Even my tick needed a few pumps to build pressure after the final bleeder crack. If it's not building pressure, the master might not be up to snuff or something. I missed if you installed a better clutch. The stock master is barely adequate for the OE clutch and that's debatable.

All that Said, nothing beats a tick for high rpm creamy shifting goodness

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

I have pressure it just sticks when I get on the throttle. Fine at low rpm shifts. Running a spec stage 3 so I'm really leaning toward I need a tick to run the system haha

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

yep! You need a tick. The only regret you'll have is not doing it sooner.

Heads up - pain in the *** to get it in. Removing steering shaft helps a bit. If you have long tubes it'll be even tighter. Word of caution - it is possible to over stroke the slave and blow the seals out. Once you get it in, here is the best method I've found:
1. After install, make rod as long as possible.
2. Leave line disconnected. Bleed the master with a Philips head pushing in check valve.
3. Every few clutch pushers, check and fill reservoir.
4. After three reservoirs worth of bleeding, air should be gone. Install hydraulic line to slave
5. Shorten adjuster rod all the way short.
6. Bleed slave per normal. Don't let reservoir run empty.
7. Lengthen rod to the point you can just barely shift smoothly through all gears with engine off.
8. Turn engine on, increase rod length until you can shift smoothly through all gears with engine on.
9. Street drive it and fine tune adjustment length. Lock the nuts on the adjuster.
10. Learn how to drive with narrower engagement window -takes a day or two. Once you get used to it you love it. Like beer

trans_am_2000

iTrader: (6)

Yeah now that this master isn't working I wish I would have ordered it first haha just want to be able to shift hard again and run the 1/4 lol

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

you will. I promise