Adjusting the tick master
Adjusting the tick master Had it adjusted about an inch under the brake and was pretty good but was worried I wasn't getting full disengagement was about mid of pedal release. Adjusted a bit more and about quarter inch under the brake now release is at the top and shifts are a little nothcy feeling
is there a question here lol
if you get the rear up in the air, and put it in gear, clutch pedal down -
if the rear tires aren't moving your good. dont adjust it too far out
or you will damage your pp fingers.
if you get the rear up in the air, and put it in gear, clutch pedal down -
if the rear tires aren't moving your good. dont adjust it too far out
or you will damage your pp fingers.
okay that's good to know, but with it adjusted out more i thought it would eliminate the notchyness because it is pushing more fluid but it went into reverse easier with it adjusted in a bit compared to now
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I'm in the same boat as you, it was driving me crazy and I'm OCD about everything being perfect on my car. Called up tick performance and they said as long as it is at the same height as the brake pedal or lower most cars should be fine and you aren't going to blow out the slave. Mine is a hair lower than the brake pedal and feels great so I'm going to leave it there.
I've got my pedal dead nuts even with the brake pedal, but I'd like it to be a tad lower. I've been thinking about adjusting it some. The clutch pedal had been about 1/2" above the brake pedal, and that sucked, so I adjusted it to where it is now, and it's been that way for a long time. I may play with it Friday night before going out to play Saturday evening.
Mine is a tad under the brake pedal but i had some tire movement when reving with clutch pushed on a dyno, and it grinded 4th a bit on the dyno so im thinking i need a little higher yet
^ yes, if you have the tick, and still get wheel spin with clutch pedal
pressed in, you need to adjust the rod out as you are not getting enough
disengagement to satisfy the clutch.
...may be a shim issue as well, and not sure if adjusting the tick out more
would help that. my simple brain says it would to a point, but that depends
on how much of a shim you may have needed.
pressed in, you need to adjust the rod out as you are not getting enough
disengagement to satisfy the clutch.
...may be a shim issue as well, and not sure if adjusting the tick out more
would help that. my simple brain says it would to a point, but that depends
on how much of a shim you may have needed.
Because you have less travel and less play in the pedal (dead area). Even with mine setup the way it is, there is some "dead area" when your first engage the clutch.
it went into reverse better and had no grind shifting, adj it out even with the brake pedal and it seems to grind 4th sometimes and doesn't go in rev as easy. but I have the slightest wheel jerk when on stands and rev it to about 5k