Hydraulic Bleeding Nightmare, Help...
Was experiencing a 2-3 inch play in my clutch pedal, but was still able to shift. Started bleeding the system only to accidentally starve the reservoir...
After bleeding w/ ticks speedbleeder repeatedly (without closing the valve),
Unhooking the master from the slave and having a friend help "bench bleed" the master,
And even after buying a mityvac (which i might be using improperly)
STILL NO PRESSURE!
Granted, there was a bit if pedal pressure before "bench bleeding" (which i think caused the no pressure feel permanently) what could i have done wrong?? Did my tick master finally take a dump?
I've been trying for 12 hours, LITERALLY...
Tips on mityvac usage, bench bleeding it correctly and even testing for a bad master cylinder is highly appreciated..
Thank you.
Last edited by XDeath; Sep 5, 2015 at 06:26 PM. Reason: wrong info
I've had very good luck bench bleeding my master, but you almost need a third person to watch the reservoir while you're doing it. If not, check it after every third bleed.
I do it similarly to brakes. Assistant presses pedal, I push in the valve. Assistant holds pedal down until I say ok. Assistant lets pedal up slow. Rinse and repeat. Usually the first couple of strokes will blast out air. After that, it's liquid. I do three reservoirs full. If at any time the reservoir goes empty start all over.
Then I hook up the line and bleed the slave. I usually close and open the bleeder each stroke like with brakes. I run the bleeder up through the floor and do this in the drivers seat. Check reservoir frequently. Don't let it go empty or you start all over.
After bleeding a few reservoir fills through the slave I usually still have to pump it a few times to build full pressure, but then it stays good.
The above method has worked for me pretty well for bleeding. But I typically don't get pedal resistance until the pumping up state ebd





