Engine bogging while freewheeling?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 47
From: Noblesville, IN
Engine bogging while freewheeling? So I finally got my trans back in. I have a weird issue. With the car in the air (all wheels free) if I put it in first and slowly let the clutch out, the wheels spin but the car starts bogging and tries to die. Does this in basically all gears. I know there is some amount of bogging to be expected since it has to overcome inertia, but usually it's enough to where I can let the clutch out slowly enough to get the wheels moving and it's fine.
I can freely spin the driveshaft by hand with resistance (which just feels like the normal friction), no binding or anything. Any thoughts on this? Anything electrical that would just cause the car to die as soon as something starts spinning?
I can freely spin the driveshaft by hand with resistance (which just feels like the normal friction), no binding or anything. Any thoughts on this? Anything electrical that would just cause the car to die as soon as something starts spinning?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 47
From: Noblesville, IN
So apparently it was the reverse switch being unplugged.... can anyone help me try to figure out WHY the reverse switch on the transmission being unplugged would cause the car to freak out like this? Or should I post this up in the tuning section? Thx
When you do this, do you have the car up on a 2 post lift or something like that? If so, and if you are letting the suspension hang, I'd first look to see if your drive shaft and U-joints are binding up. If they are stock, maybe your U-joints are going out?
Try lowering the car onto jack stands so the wheels are free but the car is resting on the suspension vs. the body/frame. I think that will tell you a lot.
I recall there are two reverse switches. One for the reverse lights and one for the reverse lockout solenoid. Both should be plugged in and are key for your safety, but they should not affect performance.
Try lowering the car onto jack stands so the wheels are free but the car is resting on the suspension vs. the body/frame. I think that will tell you a lot.
I recall there are two reverse switches. One for the reverse lights and one for the reverse lockout solenoid. Both should be plugged in and are key for your safety, but they should not affect performance.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 47
From: Noblesville, IN
Car is sitting on Jack stands, with the rear suspension loaded.
It wasnt the reverse lockout that was unplugged. It was the actual reverse switch that's on the passenger side of the case. I didn't think it would affect the performance either, but I cant deny that the issue went away as soon as I plugged it in.
Was gonna test it again later today. If everything works well I'll try unplugging the switch again to see if see recreates the problem.
It wasnt the reverse lockout that was unplugged. It was the actual reverse switch that's on the passenger side of the case. I didn't think it would affect the performance either, but I cant deny that the issue went away as soon as I plugged it in.
Was gonna test it again later today. If everything works well I'll try unplugging the switch again to see if see recreates the problem.
It's traction control. I have the same thing. Assuming you too have TC, the ECU thinks weird bad things are happening and cuts power when rear wheels turn but fronts dont. Turn off TC and see if issue is resolved.
