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torqueing the t56 front midplate

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Old Apr 7, 2026 | 11:20 AM
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Default torqueing the t56 front midplate

Does the t56 need to be standing up when torquing the ls1 front midplate or if the shims are correct it doesnt hurt the remove and bolt on torque the ls1 t56 midplate to specs? I just need to use grey rtv to seal or is black silicone used? What does gm use from the factory and dont need to let the silicone sit or harden before torquing correct? I had simply removed and swapped midplates but wasnt sure if the transmission needed to be standing up i dont think that matters unless shimming but i have the correct shims i just simply need to add silicone and torque the midplate down?
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Old Apr 8, 2026 | 02:33 PM
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From: T56th Street, Aridzona
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The shims aren't correct until the tail housing is removed and procedure for mainshaft, countershaft, and c.s. ext.are followed.

Ultra grey is for mosers who think they're accomplishing something by being different, like making disassembly more laborious for someone else. Use Ultra Black.
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Old Apr 19, 2026 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jmd
The shims aren't correct until the tail housing is removed and procedure for mainshaft, countershaft, and c.s. ext.are followed.

Ultra grey is for mosers who think they're accomplishing something by being different, like making disassembly more laborious for someone else. Use Ultra Black.

I had the stock oem frontcover of the t56 off to put an input shaft seal and shift rail bushings. It would use the same exact shims it had when taken off. The oem input had exactly .002 freeplay which is right in spec at 127k miles. Its the tremec labeled t56 m12 after tremecbought borg warner in 1999 from my 2004 GTO. Though i have an f-body ls1 midplate with the borg warner label its the exact same part and the depths of input is the exact same from the other tremec midplate. The countershaft of the newer tremec midplate is just under 1th deeperer or near. 001 deeper. However an amp plate i tried used .007 deeper then oem tremec which used .035th .043 shim for the amp input and it has just over 0 freeplay not preloaded. The countershaft was .010-.012th deeper or a .048-.050 shim over the stock .0385th. I found out with any preload there isnt any free play or the .005th side to side freeplay the inputshaft is supposed to have so would make it harder to stab the transmission.

So just use ultra black RTV silicone. Is a 1/4" bead good enough or 3/8" all the way around and does it need to dry any before bolting and torqueing down to 37f lbs in cross sequence. Its not 22-26ft lbs correct? Somewhere i thought i maybe read that but seeing theyre the same bolts as the t56 to bellhousing would lead me to believe 37ftlbs like the bellhousing torque specs.
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