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My Bulletproof Drivetrain setup

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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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Question My Bulletproof Drivetrain setup

My search for a bullet proof drivetrain has left me with this. Please let me know your opinions/comments if you have any. Want to get the best out of this.

1. Spec stage III clutch w/ billet flywheel.
2. T56 trans rebuild:
*Includes 1st and 2nd three piece synchronizer rings, 3rd, 4th, 5th & 6th kevlar synchronizer rings, front and rear seals, rear tail housing bushing, input roller bearings, all main shaft gear bearings, all main shaft bearings, all countershaft bearings, shift fork pads, front bearing preload shims, countershaft preload shims, synchronizer keys and retaining rings, and shifter bushing. (the gear box)
*new 1-2 shiftfork from the gear box
*steel 3-4 shiftfork from the gear box
3. Aluminum Driveshaft
4. Moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10's

The gearbox told me that trans upgrade would be good for 550 - 650hp.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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Here is what I am about to order:

Spec Stage III x-pad with flywheel $6-700
Eastside Perf & Dyno T-56 $1500 with core
Strange 12-bolt w/ 4.11s

Already have a Denny's driveshaft, so I won't need to mess with that.

If you're going to replace everything in the T-56 housing...why not just order one that is already built? It might even be cheaper.

Additionally, that stock aluminum driveshaft isn't long for this world when it is behind an M6.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 07:16 PM
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So go with a steel driveshaft?

Also my breakdown is like this:

clutch and flywheel $700
Everything from the gearbox $400
Driveshaft (that is in question now) $300
12 Bolt $2100

total in parts 3.5k

Havn't check on labor yet, but me and my dad have a good friend that builds race cars and does tuning on his Dyno Jet. So it isn't that bad. I'll say 4.5k at most for everything installed.

the main question however is... is this drivetrain setup good for 550 - 650hp?

Anyone done a setup that is just as good for cheaper?
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 01:29 PM
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The T-56 is pretty stout, it's just that GM built it with crappy parts, so it doesn't shift well and tends to get worse with more power put through it.
A rebuilt tranny with some improved parts from D&D or someone should hold about 550 ft-lbs of torque.

Spec stage III should be able to hold about 680 fwhp. (According to their site)

A Denny's N20 ready driveshaft is supposed to be good over 700 rwhp, and if you manage to break it, they will replace it free of charge. I have heard of quite a few stock driveshafts being torn with good traction on a stock car. You can get an upgraded aluminum shaft, but they are more expensive than steel.

I have heard of people breaking 12-bolts rear-ends, but I don't think it should be a big concern of yours. I personally would choose Strange over Moser because thier torque arm mount is better (actually cast into the diff housing), they include a Super Strength posi standard, and they seem to run quieter than Moser rear-ends. Plus they come assembled and require very few additional parts if any, while Mosers come unassembled and require additional parts to bolt in.

I think you should be fine with the setup you listed. Nothing is bulletproof, but it is certainly a big improvement over the stock parts.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 02:10 PM
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Thanks alot. I have seemed to missed that part about the torque arm in my research. Good thing you mentioned it.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 03:20 PM
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This is what i got:
1) D&D Performance built t56 tranny
2) Dennys nitrous ready 3" steel driveshaft
3) Moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10
4) RAM 410 VDS w billet flywheel
5) Kirban shifter
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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You did all the work yourself huh HotRod68Camaro? Does anyone know how much it would cost in labor to do something like this? I do almost everything to my car, but i don't think i can do tranny work myself.
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