Will the Clutch hold?
Kooks LT's, TD's, LS6 Intake Manifold, F10 Cam are all the major power adders I have waiting for me... After the Dyno tune I should be in the 400/400 area (98 M6)
I have the stock clutch right now at 40K, and I did'nt have any problems with it before I left... but after all the "extras" I'll be putting on the car, is my clutch gonna last?
I'll go to the track a couple times, but not on slicks or anything, just street tires, but for the most part it's just going from point A to B faster than car C...
If I were you, I'd budget for a new clutch before you go putting any of those goodies on your car...otherwise, you are gonna be driving a car that smokes the clutch instead of the tires.
Steve
Anyone else?
Other than the down time, and the possible tow bill, is thier anything BAD that you can do to damage your car once you burn your current clutch up?
Should I just wait for the current setup to start slipping before shelling out $800, or is their a downside to the madness?
As far as tearing anything up...you may or may not. How bad you fry it can determine whether or not you can reuse your existing flywheel (resurfaced of course), but mainly, you are just looking at a tow bill. Seriously though...this is a very common mistake. Here are the two biggies:
1. Adding a lot of power and thinking the stock clutch will hold
2. Adding a lot of power and thinking the stock rear end will hold
The clutch will be your weak link. If you run anything other than a street radial, the rear end will be next (after you have replaced the clutch).
This is just my $.02, but when you go to build something, you have to realize that you are exceeding the specs the clutch and rear end were designed to be able to hold. Unfortunately, GM designed these two pieces to just be able to hold the stock power and little more. Cheap for them, but if you modify your car, that is bad for you. That's just how it works with F-bods.
Steve


