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RAM clutch question

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Old Sep 3, 2004 | 09:35 PM
  #1  
TripleBlackRamAirT/A's Avatar
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From: Horsham PA
Exclamation RAM clutch question

I just installed a ram 402pp and a 910 disk onto an AMS billet steel flywheel that was just resurfaced. The problem I am having is the clutch won't fully disengage. At first it was with the stock hydraulics, then I tried to fix it by making my own adjustable master cylinder. I threaded the rod and added a rod coupling so I could adjust the length, then I took it apart and cut about 1/2" off of the internal stop. I would have thought this was enough but it still isn't. Also, I tore the lower seal a little bit inside the master, so could this be why it isn't enough throw? Is there more travel in say a ram or mcleod adjustable or should mine work with a good seal in it? I need help fellas', let me know what to do.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 03:24 AM
  #2  
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Do you know how much was taken off of the flywheel?

You *may* need to shim the slave, instead of focusing on the master. By shimming the slave away from the face of the trans, you're placing it closer to the clutch, and improving the disengagement when the pedal is pushed in.

Honestly, I'm not sure where to get the shims, but I know that some clutch kits come with them... so someone like Thunder might be able to help with that.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 04:35 AM
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I got a whole pack of shim stock from Mcmaster and Carr and made my own. I know Mcleod clutches come with some, you might try calling them.

My flywheel was resurfaced only .008 and i could barly make up for that with my adjustable master.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 08:45 AM
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TripleBlackRamAirT/A's Avatar
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I don't know how much was taken off, but I am assuming it was a good amount. It was really screwed up from the spec 3, and the dick at the machine shop tried charging me 70 bucks for it. What if I take the internal stop out of the master? Would that possibly work? Im trying to do anything other than take the trans back out again.
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