Very Lengthy Mechanic oriented
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Teching In
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Very Lengthy Mechanic oriented Background: 99 z-28 m6 4.56 10 bolt street tires. Stock clutch etc. stock engine. Mods 160 t-stat tb bypass !cags,egr,air,drl K&n modified stock air box drill mod ported polished tb and mass and descreaned mass. That being said last sunday was at us 41 doing test and tune. Did a 13.57@104mph with a 2.001 best 60 ft. On one of my runs down the track missed third (stock shifter is uh very loose) and with clutch slightly out litaraly drove it into 5th. Now 5th grinds everytime upshift or downshift (syncro I know) Any way part I am more intrested in upgrade at this point to the hydraulics. To my understanding of hydraulics the rate of an actuator is proportional to the amount of flow and pressure is the resistance to this said flow. So would a larger resivoir and supply line to slave cylinder and line to the throwout increase the speed at which the clutch disengages? I know of putting the 02 up z06 hydraulics help but does it compleatly get rid of grinding issues caused by slow clutch disengaugement? The reason I ask is if there is no way to get rid of the "clutch lag" then I will scrap the 6 speed and install a man. 4 speed and engineer a clutch cable or linkage set up.
As you stated, the mondo shift step( 2nd to 5th) and high RPM( most difficult for a synchro) ANDthe clutch out slightly( drag/ resistance to the shift) did your 5th synchro in. The basic flaw in the bigger reservoir/ bigger line proposal is that it leaves out a critical factor in the release system = you need to add more delivery= the master should also grow. This will only take you so far and will not eliminate the clutch lag (your term) completely.There will always be a time required to do the work. I am not sure if Rockland sells a kit( don't know why the would not) Most any Tremec dealer can get you what you need to DIY.I know D&D in the detroit area does.
I think a stiffer( higher cenering load) shifter would help you and there are a number of them out there( please don't start another 5.0 vs B& M or some other thread). Either D& D or Rockland can steer you to the best internal upgrades as well
Clutch master cylinder "Drill Mod"
There is a restrictor in the output line of the master cylinder that slows the engagement of the clutch. Most people on this board will upgrade to the '01 model year hydraulics and perform the "drill mod".
If you aren't familiar with this, doa search on it...there are a couple of websites that explain how to do it. I did it at home with an 1/8" drill bit...it was very simple. The hard part was getting all of the metal shavings out and bleeding it properly.
There is a restrictor in the output line of the master cylinder that slows the engagement of the clutch. Most people on this board will upgrade to the '01 model year hydraulics and perform the "drill mod".
If you aren't familiar with this, doa search on it...there are a couple of websites that explain how to do it. I did it at home with an 1/8" drill bit...it was very simple. The hard part was getting all of the metal shavings out and bleeding it properly.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by NOBR8KSS
Clutch master cylinder "Drill Mod"
There is a restrictor in the output line of the master cylinder that slows the engagement of the clutch. Most people on this board will upgrade to the '01 model year hydraulics and perform the "drill mod".
If you aren't familiar with this, doa search on it...there are a couple of websites that explain how to do it. I did it at home with an 1/8" drill bit...it was very simple. The hard part was getting all of the metal shavings out and bleeding it properly.
There is a restrictor in the output line of the master cylinder that slows the engagement of the clutch. Most people on this board will upgrade to the '01 model year hydraulics and perform the "drill mod".
If you aren't familiar with this, doa search on it...there are a couple of websites that explain how to do it. I did it at home with an 1/8" drill bit...it was very simple. The hard part was getting all of the metal shavings out and bleeding it properly.
