Sticking Spec III
Sticking Spec III Hey,
My car with a spec III is hard to shift at high rpms. I dont think its fully releasing. If I put the clutch in all the way and rev the engine, it fine until about 5K rpm and then you can feel the clutch grab and the car will inch forward. I resurfaced my flywheel and did not use a shim because spec told me not too. It worked beautifully for myabe 5K miles. It still grabs great, in fact last time at the track my driveshaft snapped before the clutch would give. Do you think a longer rod or an adjustable master would push the slave a little more allowing it to release? The clutch engages pretty close to the floor.
My car with a spec III is hard to shift at high rpms. I dont think its fully releasing. If I put the clutch in all the way and rev the engine, it fine until about 5K rpm and then you can feel the clutch grab and the car will inch forward. I resurfaced my flywheel and did not use a shim because spec told me not too. It worked beautifully for myabe 5K miles. It still grabs great, in fact last time at the track my driveshaft snapped before the clutch would give. Do you think a longer rod or an adjustable master would push the slave a little more allowing it to release? The clutch engages pretty close to the floor.
Did Spec said to install no shims at all or no additional shims because of resurfacing the flywheel?
According to Spec you need the 1/8" (3 mm) shim or the clutch won't desingage enough. They told me that with the shim the disengaging point should be pretty high = 1 - max 2" pedal movement. Without the shim it will be close to the floor.
I think you don't need an additional shim because of resurfacing the flywheel but you'll have to install their shim to disengaging the clutch enough.
I have the 1/8" shim and it wasn't enough! I had to make the master cylinder adjustable and it's still not perfect. Spec told me that "sometimes" it's better to add even a little more (Not more than 1 mm).
According to Spec you need the 1/8" (3 mm) shim or the clutch won't desingage enough. They told me that with the shim the disengaging point should be pretty high = 1 - max 2" pedal movement. Without the shim it will be close to the floor.
I think you don't need an additional shim because of resurfacing the flywheel but you'll have to install their shim to disengaging the clutch enough.
I have the 1/8" shim and it wasn't enough! I had to make the master cylinder adjustable and it's still not perfect. Spec told me that "sometimes" it's better to add even a little more (Not more than 1 mm).
I needed the shims with my new Billet steel flywheel from SPEC with My stage 3F. I thought you would need shims with the old flywheel too. Did you upgrade your hydrolics too? Slave & master, that could have something to do with it if you did not.
