Slow Shifting M6?
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Slow Shifting M6? okay, I have a 2000 z-28 and just last night I raced a buddy of mine in a Honda crx with a b-16 in it, and he almost had me! I would pull on him until I had to shift and EVERY gear took me about 2 seconds to engage(in that time, he would catch up)! WTF! and actually, there was a small grind on the 3-4 shift. but on the 3-4 shift, it would only grind above 5K rpms, when I shifted at 4K it isn't there? Is this a bad syncro or something? If it is, how much is that stupid thing going to cost me? I hate having close races like that. What mods can you do to have it shift lightning fast? Please help!!
Originally Posted by matt89
okay, I have a 2000 z-28 and just last night I raced a buddy of mine in a Honda crx with a b-16 in it, and he almost had me! I would pull on him until I had to shift and EVERY gear took me about 2 seconds to engage(in that time, he would catch up)! WTF! and actually, there was a small grind on the 3-4 shift. but on the 3-4 shift, it would only grind above 5K rpms, when I shifted at 4K it isn't there? Is this a bad syncro or something? If it is, how much is that stupid thing going to cost me? I hate having close races like that. What mods can you do to have it shift lightning fast? Please help!!
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hmmm wonder how much that costs. It's weird that it only does it at red line for just a split second and not at 4.5-5K. maybe it's just starting to go out. as far as the shifting goes, I can shift the eclipse I have at lightning speed.
i had the same problem, now its due for a trans rebuild, and a new clutch and master and slave. all i can say is just start saving some $$, because one day when your driving it, your gonna need a tow truck
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How long has it been since the tranny's fluid has been drained? Syncros starting to grind at high RPM can signal old fluid or low fluid. Tranny gets warm and starts to protest. Also stock shift forks can bend pretty easily.
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Shift forks and any internal work does mean dropping the trans. To change fluid look hereFluid changing. Mine started with upshifts from 3rd to 4th. Downshifts were quiet - at first.
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My problems started with low & dirty fluid. Over time the fluid suspends the worn materials within the transmission. Bits of gear and the syncro materials inhibit the smooth action of the sliding sleeves within the trans. When the fluid gets low, it just compounds the issue. The fluid is not only a lubricant but aids in cooling the internals.
If the vehicle is new to you, I'd ask the dealer when the last time the fluids were changed. If he has no record I'd ask that it be inspected and let them know about your issue. I was told that with hard driving the fluid could contaminate in 10k miles.
Bent shift fork can be a problem, but usually the first signs are popping out of gear. The fork rides in the 3-4 syncro hub on plastic pads at the tip of the fork. Over time these wear.
If the vehicle is new to you, I'd ask the dealer when the last time the fluids were changed. If he has no record I'd ask that it be inspected and let them know about your issue. I was told that with hard driving the fluid could contaminate in 10k miles.
Bent shift fork can be a problem, but usually the first signs are popping out of gear. The fork rides in the 3-4 syncro hub on plastic pads at the tip of the fork. Over time these wear.
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HMMM, you would think that with fluid THAT dirty that the problem would be in ALL the gears... this could be why it's so notchy and slow getting into gear, but still doesn't explain why it would grind in 4th ONLY when taken to redline in 3rd.
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well, I got the fluids changed and the problem is still there! I try to bang through the gears and I use the same clutch-in speed and shift speed in every gear, and when I am shifting fast, it still grinds into 4th. If I clutch in and wait a second before the 3-4 shift, it slids in fine! I noticed it poped out of 4th twice today... What could that be. Bent shift fork? Would a bent fork cause the grind as well??
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From: Bensalem, Pa, now montreal, Quebec
i have a 2000 as well, that year wasnt great for our trans, it was replacement of the 3-4 shift fork to a steel one i believe, the symptoms are popping out of gear, so im guessing you need it fixed, get it done under warranty.
same with mine, dealer said i shouldent be shifting at that high of an rpm (redline) its just gonna get worse and cost you more $$$$ (notice the 4 $ signs) dont let the dealer walk away from your problem, saty on them like white on rice, unless you want to pay out of your pocket for a trans rebuild, clutch and hydrolics sway and labor. (like me minus the labor) thats over 2 grand. once i found out i was on my own i just started saving, and im so glad i saved
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hmmm... was there a recall on the shift fork or what? I got on the dealer again and they said they would take care of everything and it would just cost me 350 bucks, I don't know if they will replace just the syncro or what they will find wrong in there... What can I do to the hadraulics besides a new slave out of an 02 car? I've heard of the drill mod, but not sure what it entails. but you'd think that it would do it in all the gears like 1-2.... I'm not sure though.
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Tudds
Learn how to drive, if there was a grind when you shifted your timing is off. If a CRX is keeping up with you, you need a lot of practice
I suggest changing your tranny fluid, checking you hydraulic system (slave/master/lines) and maybe bleeding it (with a mityvac I guess, cause LS1 slaves are a bitch to get to under the car). T56's are extremely notchy from what I have felt, taking more time to engage a gear than my S14 or other cars I have driven but their ability to hold power makes up for it
Last edited by ProductionS14; Dec 28, 2005 at 05:02 PM.
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yeah... actually the dealer changed out the fluid, but that wans't the problem. I'm sure it needed it, as it has 70 thousand miled on it and it has never been touched. They also bled the slave, but the problems are still there... I've seen some vids here of people shifting the ls1's like mad so I know it can be done. my 1-2 shifts are lightning quick, but my 2-3's are crap just because I'm used to shifting a turbo eclipses 5 speed! The camaro and the eclipse are pretty much dead even as far as pull goes, even though the camaro FEELS like it pulls ALOT harder. IT's just the torque I think. Maybe headers and intake would help... how much DO they REALLY help, would you say atleast a few cars worth at 100mph for both?
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From: Houston, TX
Headers would definately help, assuming you get longtubes. Intake is good for a few horsepower... expect around 10whp realistically for a good intake setup. The LS1 feels like it pulls harder because of the solid torquey pull. My friend was just talking about the 2-3 shifts on T56's being slow, something about a "drill mod" and (haha) that's actually how I found this thread. As posted before I don't know what that entails either.