having trouble shifting?
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From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
having trouble shifting? hey guys does anyone else have trouble shifting the car at wide open throttle like the clutch wont disengage. someone told me when you start making power the hydraulic system is to weak to build adaquite pressure and therefore it wont release right. does anyone know about this and if the adjustable master cylinder would correct it
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: bc canada
same problem i have had the same problem since i put my centerforce in im now inthe midst of taking it apart and replacing the slave as well as the flywheel clutch and to bearing ill let u know if it fixed the shifting problem but im leaning towards a bad slave because i know they had problems with it when the dealership put it in.
same problem My car is is a 98 Z. With CF dual frition and short throw shifter. Driving in the city it shifts fine but when I hit the track and shift at 6000-6500 it has a delay maybe about a second or two before it goes in to the next gear. I will be upgrading all the hydralics,doing the drill mod and installing a spec 3. Also a Pro 5.0 with either a UMI SS or LSS is going in.
Same problem here so frustrating that I had temporarily stopped racing my car. My friend and I just put in a SPEC 5 and McLeod bell housing and he is rebuilding my transmission. So hopefully no more slow high speed shifts.
I have a Spec 2+ now, but I have an LS7 Clutch coming as I type this. When you start making ALOT of power, your gonna need a very strong clutch, and really GOOD hydraulics to keep the T56 going strong. You may want to send your tranny to T56rebuilds. I'm ordering one thats been braised etc. More power = more broken things, along with a rear end, then I should be set.
running a dual friction on factory hydraulics, I had the same problem, shifting above 4700rpms was pretty tough. I did a clutch change recently, ran with another dual friction setup, a new flywheel, ram master & ram slave & drill mod. Now I don't have that problem anymore. Shifts fine at whatever rpm I'm at.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2004
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richieg,
Please call our tech line (800) 932-5882 ask for Roger Warner ext. 32. The factory hydraulics has given every clutch manufacture nothing but problems including the OE clutch. We have made several changes to our clutches to get them to work with the factory hydraulics.
Ssfast99, We did have a batch of bad facings do you still have the old parts? Sorry for the problems please call our tech line to see if we can still do anything to help.
Best regards,
Will Baty,
Centerforce Clutches
Please call our tech line (800) 932-5882 ask for Roger Warner ext. 32. The factory hydraulics has given every clutch manufacture nothing but problems including the OE clutch. We have made several changes to our clutches to get them to work with the factory hydraulics.
Ssfast99, We did have a batch of bad facings do you still have the old parts? Sorry for the problems please call our tech line to see if we can still do anything to help.
Best regards,
Will Baty,
Centerforce Clutches
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left a message for Roger.
Another thing I forgot to mention that might help people. . . a while back I made a thread detailing my last clutch install. In it I stated that the cause the problems that made me change the clutch was do to an exhaust leak near the hydraulic line. The flange on the cat had warped and was blowing like a torch directly onto the line. I waited a little bit for textrailia to come out with there aftermarket hydraulic line, but it's not here yet, and it looked a bit pricey too. So I just drilled out my factory line and re-used it. At the time of my clutch & hydraulics install, I also switched from factory manifolds to mac mid headers with ory. These things get hot, and are very close to the hydraulic line. So out with the jegg's catalog to the exhaust cooling section. I wrapped the headers where they bolt up to the y as far up as I could reach, (roughly 15 inches worth). I then put some heat shielding split loom around the hydraulic line and used the fiberglass tape around the loom. I supose one day I'll bother with making a better line.
Another thing I forgot to mention that might help people. . . a while back I made a thread detailing my last clutch install. In it I stated that the cause the problems that made me change the clutch was do to an exhaust leak near the hydraulic line. The flange on the cat had warped and was blowing like a torch directly onto the line. I waited a little bit for textrailia to come out with there aftermarket hydraulic line, but it's not here yet, and it looked a bit pricey too. So I just drilled out my factory line and re-used it. At the time of my clutch & hydraulics install, I also switched from factory manifolds to mac mid headers with ory. These things get hot, and are very close to the hydraulic line. So out with the jegg's catalog to the exhaust cooling section. I wrapped the headers where they bolt up to the y as far up as I could reach, (roughly 15 inches worth). I then put some heat shielding split loom around the hydraulic line and used the fiberglass tape around the loom. I supose one day I'll bother with making a better line.
Originally Posted by IVRedZ28LS1
Driving in the city it shifts fine but when I hit the track and shift at 6000-6500 it has a delay maybe about a second or two before it goes in to the next gear.
I have the same problem. New textrailia clutch, flywheel, PP, master, drill mod, slave, TO bearing, needle bearing, pro 5.0, and rebuilt T56.
Would air in the system cause problems like mentioned above? I have what appears to be a "firm" pedal.
Maybe engagement issues?
Think i need to shim it?
Anyone have an opinion?
Thanks
Last edited by AW794; Feb 10, 2006 at 03:29 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by AW794
On a 99 TA WS6 with maybe 310 to the wheels...
I have the same problem. New textrailia clutch, flywheel, PP, master, drill mod, slave, TO bearing, needle bearing, pro 5.0, and rebuilt T56.
Would air in the system cause problems like mentioned above? I have what appears to be a "firm" pedal.
Maybe engagement issues?
Think i need to shim it?
Anyone have an opinion?
Thanks
I have the same problem. New textrailia clutch, flywheel, PP, master, drill mod, slave, TO bearing, needle bearing, pro 5.0, and rebuilt T56.
Would air in the system cause problems like mentioned above? I have what appears to be a "firm" pedal.
Maybe engagement issues?
Think i need to shim it?
Anyone have an opinion?
Thanks
Before the clutch was propperly bleed I would get the same pause in the higher RPMS while trying to shift.
Question for y'all that have already done the drill mod: The size bit recommended (1/8 I think) is actually larger than the outermost orifice of that line, do I need to drill that whole hole larger? When I had the clutch/slave apart, I did drill out some sort of restriction but it was inside the hose a little ways and was much smaller than the 1/8 bit recommended. However, I still get the funky clutch actuation after a few hard shifts climbing through the gears.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by AW794
yeah its about a inch or 2, kidkl. What method did you use to bleed?
One thing on my car the stock master was aparently going bad on it with ~36k on it. When the car was cold the pedal had ~2" of movement in it, it was hard to get into gear especially reverse. I sometimes had to "pump up" the pedal to get reverse to work. Then slowsly as the motor warmed up and I drove around the pedal would loose more and more of the free play. Usually after ~15min and a couple hard accelerations I would get noticibly stiffer and the engagment point would move way up on the pedal (like from the bottom of the pedal to almost the top). At that point it would drive like stock again.
Replacing the stock master with a new stock GM fixed that issue. As near as we could figure was that the seals on the old one were starting to go and when it was cold it would let fluid bypass the master. As it and the fluid got warmer the seals expanded ever so slightly and started sealing properly once again.
I've changed both the master and the slave with 01+ hydraulics and havent had any issues with a spec 2+ clutch. I'm going to the LS7 Clutch soon, but my pedal is quite firm and the clutch engages wonderfully since the drill mod and upgrades.
