Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

is my master/slave going out?

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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:58 AM
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Default is my master/slave going out?

my car only has 18k miles on it. I just put a brand new Spec Stage 3 clutch and fully built tranny, lingenfelter output shafts, and a Ripper shifter in my car no more than 1500 miles ago. Now my clutch seems to be engaging 1/2 an inch from the floor, its hard for my to put the car into 1st and reverse and when the clutch is all the way in theres a vibration through out the car. Does this sound like i need to replace my master? Any help would be appreciated, thanks

daniel
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Its good practice to replace the slave along with the clutch just in case. Were the hydraulics bled after the install?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:20 AM
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just got off the phone with RPM and they say Master. wonderful.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:36 AM
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A master isnt a common part to go (compared to the slave), but its easier to change than a slave. Especially in a C5. They go for around 150 bux. McLeod for 300 or so.

Last edited by DONAIMIAN; Apr 2, 2006 at 12:42 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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the master should be fine unless its leaking or somethin. sounds like u have a **** load of air in the lines id try bleeding it like a mother and see if that helps.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:00 PM
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well now when i put my clutch in, with the car in gear, the car still goes forward.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 04:59 PM
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I say air in the lines.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
the master should be fine unless its leaking or somethin. sounds like u have a **** load of air in the lines id try bleeding it like a mother and see if that helps.
Yes, very good advice from Light'em. Unless there's fluid dripping from the MC actuating rod, it's probably not the MC.

Bleed, Bleed and Bleed again.

As has been stated here before regarding the technique:

* Crack open bleeder;
* Have assistant pump and hold the clutch pedal;
* Close bleeder;
* Slowly pull clutch pedal to full upright position;
* Repeat as necessary;
* Always keep an eye on the MC reservoir to insure it doesn't go dry.

I would be very surprised if that doesn't take care of your problems.

Steve
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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From: Keller
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Originally Posted by steve-d
Yes, very good advice from Light'em. Unless there's fluid dripping from the MC actuating rod, it's probably not the MC.

Bleed, Bleed and Bleed again.

As has been stated here before regarding the technique:

* Crack open bleeder;
* Have assistant pump and hold the clutch pedal;
* Close bleeder;
* Slowly pull clutch pedal to full upright position;
* Repeat as necessary;
* Always keep an eye on the MC reservoir to insure it doesn't go dry.

I would be very surprised if that doesn't take care of your problems.

Steve
exaclty but u do not want to pump the clutch with the bleeder valve open, be sure you
pump the clutch
press the clutch in and hold
have buddy crack bleed valve
then close bleed valve

repeat
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 09:24 PM
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I wouldnt drive the car untill you get this taken care of, if possible. If the clutch isnt releasing all the way, your just putting more wear on that brand new tranny. If you want I might be home when you are, and give me a call and ill help.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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I would bleed it before anything!
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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The car is not driveable at all now.
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