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Clutch bleeding tips..

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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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Default Clutch bleeding tips..

I got my motor/tranny/clutch into the car a couple weeks ago and bled my system very easily. I continue to see posts of people having trouble so hopefully this will help. I replaced the slave cylinder and took the master out to perform the drill mod. None of my hydraulics saw a drop of fluid until they were back in the car and I had the whole system bled in under 20 minutes.

I had everything back in the car but did not plug the quick disconnect line into the tranny.
-First thing I did was fill the reservoir with fluid until it was full.
-Once that was full I went under that car and use a small tube (like from a WD40 spray can but anything will work) to hold the valve on the end of the quick disconnect line open. I left it open to gravity bleed the system while a buddy watched the reservoir up top and made sure the fluid didn't go too low. It didn't take long for me to only see fluid coming out so I then removed the wedge so the valve would close again.
-Next we almost topped off the reservoir (do not put the cover on the reservoir). We left some room for air to bleed out. With the reservoir almost full I went in and pumped the pedal. I had to do it by hand at first because with air still in the system the pedal goes to the floor and stays there. I just kept pumping the pedal and the air was bleeding out the reservoir. As the pedal got stiffer I used my foot making sure to go all the way down with the pedal as my friend kept ample fluid in the reservoir. After a while of pumping there were very little to no bubbles coming out. At this point there's very little if any air left in your master cylinder.
-Next step is to connect the master line to the slave cylinder. Have someone crack open the bleeder valve (a 1/4" breaker bar is great here, no racheting) and have someone else push the pedal to the floor. Hold the pedal on the floor and close the bleeder valve. Repeat this procedure until you see only fluid and no air coming out of the bleeder valve. By closing the valve before letting the pedal come up you won't suck any air into the system. Check your reservoir after a few pumps to make sure the fluid level is good. The slave doesn't take a lot of fluid so there should be plenty.

Once you only see fluid coming out of the bleeder valve that's it, you're done. Close the bleeder valve, cap your reservoir, and get driving. Obviously make sure you have a strong feeling pedal before you finish. Any little bit of air that's still in the system will work its way out. In fact is even said that in my instructions for my slave cylinder so that's not even just my opinion. This is really all there is to it, in fact it's probably easier and faster than all the writing above makes it seem. The main thing is to make sure you have fluid in the reservoir and there's no chances for air to get in (bleeder valve or quick disconnect line) when you raise the pedal. Hopefully this helps some people out so they're not wasting valuable driving time on trying to bleed their clutch.
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Big Black SS's Avatar
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From: mesa ,az
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question about the quick realease ........how do you realease it? i tried bleeding it with a mity vac and some bubbles came out but not all because the pedal is not stiff and wont go into gear .if this does not work then im going to take it to a shop recomended my my cousin
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