Ok.. sorry about the spasmatic title. LOL.
Here's the problem. I need serious help with this.
I had a Spec stage 2 kevlar clutch installed about 4 weeks ago. With a bulldog 17lb steel flywheel. All brand new.
I had it done by some little hick auto shop cause I was broke at the time.
They did a good job on it. At least I thought.
I drove it away and everything was fine. I put about 500 in town/city miles on it before I started to get on it a little. not killing it... just kind of breaking it in.
Then when I hit 1,100 miles I went to Kil-Kare. I did the normal hole shot.
About 4 seconds or so... (I think)
Then when I ran the car.. I couldnt get it out of gear and into second even with the clutch all the way down. Same thing for third. I had to force it into gear just to get off the track.
I drove it home immediately. Let it sit for the rest of the day. The next day... it drives fine. So I have the exhaust and headers put on. Nology Hotwires & 1 step colder NGK plugs. (I am using a 75 wet shot of spray at this time.)
I get the car back after a week. It's done and running great and loud!!
I put another 1000 miles on it in town trying to knock off any glaze on the clutch.
Finally test & tune day comes. I take it and run it three times.
I did not hole shot any of them. The first 2 were basically the same. I was spraying through first and second. (125 shot now)
The tires was spinning for about 45 ft. Then I got hook up. but then when I shifted it went into gear fine, but the clutch slipped out until I hit 5,000 rpm.
Then I tried to get it into third and wetn back to the same problem as the last time I ran it.
the third time I ran it was useless. the clutch was basically out and I got like a 15.56 or some ****. I basically coasted after second gear. LOL.
I need everyone who can help me to post here and let me know what it could be and what it will take to fix this problem.
I am dropping it off to the shop today to have them start bleeding the Hydro lines to the master cyl. I am hoping that will bring me a quick fix.
I dont want to have to sink another $400 into this clutch crap. I have replaced it twice. (I went through a Spec Stage 1 in like 2 months due to manufacturer defect.) I paid the difference and went up to the Stage 2.
but that was double my labor cost having it replaced like that twice.
I cant do it again.
But I NEED to race the car and see what I can get from the car at the track. It's killing me!!!
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks guys!!!
Josh


P.S. If there is anyone local who will look at it.. let me know and I'll bring it to you.

 

try drill mod on master cylinder

 

I forgot to say that I am fairly new at all this.
I dont want to have to yank out the tranny again.
I am hoping the bleeding will work.
If not... I'll be back here immediately for more advice. I just getting it all now so that I have it to apply it when/if the time comes. Plus I like to learn everything I can.
Thank you.
Josh

 

Bump, seriously needing help here guys.

 

remove the 20 inch rims that might help a lil

 

and the screens and XBOX....put them in a mini-van.

And where/when did you sound off 157 dBs?? Had to be an old mike.


Oh yea, +1 for the drill mod

 

I peaked 154.7 not 157. @ Stereo in Dash last year. using tracks 36-39 on their DB drag bass frequency CD.
However, I had a different setup then I do now. I was using an Armaggedon 15" DVC sub bridged. But that was hurting my amp because it was making my amp 2 ohm stable and it's only supposed to be 4 ohm stable. (R.F. punch 500a2). Now I have a Kicker CVR 15" sub DVC. It's not bridged and I dont plan on it because I dont want to blow my amp. I am not doing the competition thing any more. I won one trophy last year and that's all I needed.
Dontn hate on my Xbox and TV. I get more compliments on that than my exhaust. Which sounds like a beast.


Why does everyone hate on my 20's? LOL
I am on www.streetracingdatyon.com all the time... and they hate on my 20's constantly.
But to be serious. That isnt the answer to the question I posted. My 20's have NOTHING to do with my clutch and the problem I am having.
This entire reply was basically me defending myself against some guy calling me a liar... and some other guy hatin on my 20's....
Please give me some helpful advice!!!
Thanks,
Josh

 

Ok..
I dont know what the "drill mod" is. I am trying to stay away from pulling the tranny down AGAIN. It's expensive and I dont have the cash for it right now.
Anything else I can do???

 

Bump, still need help folks.
Havent gotten any help at all actually.
LOL.
Thanks!!
Josh

 

I don't think the drill mod requires the tranny being down...depends on the year of your car and which style of actuation (fork vs hydraulic throwout style)...but from your symptoms it sounds like the hydraulics that operate the clutch are to blame.

You can search for drill mod and you will find many a post.

Regardless....one of the rewards of this hobby is for me doing the work myself.

Tranny removal requires laying on your back with 24" worth of extensions to get the bolts out..not fun but rewarding. A true hot rodder in my experience should try this at least once. (unless you have a lift)

my 0.02

 

When the car wouldn't go into gear had you lost pedal feel? Was the pedal all the way to the floorboard? How bad was it slipping?

 

Well, to honest, I dont know if I can explain this properly.
The pedal normally has resistance when I push it down.
After the the problem starts, I can push it to the floor very easily.
And after the third it was like I didnt even have a clutch. I was trying to put the car in gear and with the clutch all the way down... it would grind and make the car start to die.
I had to have the crew push me off the exit.
Make sense?
Thanks...
Josh

 

I haven't seen anyone confirm this to him yet, so... you do not have to pull the tranny again in order to do the drill mod on the master. There is a simple write-up about it on install university (I think). Just pull the master from the car, do the drill mod, and put it back in. That should solve your problems.

 

It sounds like a problem that I was having after I had a centerforce clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder put in, because one of my flywheel bolts backed out and screwed everything up, including the bellhousing. The second time I replaced everything with a new stock clutch and found out the problem that I was having was due to a leaking/faulty slave cylinder. Sorry to say, but it sounds like you will be shelling out a bunch mor emoney.

 

That Spec stage 2 isn't helping you out either, especially on a 125 shot. With the money spent with the two clutches and labor you could've had a good clutch that would've held up to the abuse. You get what you pay for. I'm not flaming you, I'm just speaking from experience.

 

I understand completely. Thanks for commenting.
Well, I bought the Stage 1 first because I didnt have much money and I was still running stock.
I blew that one to pieces. Sent it back and paid the difference and upped to a stage 2 Kevlar. I am still under warranty on that one too.
I may pull it and pay the difference for the Stage 2 +.
Is there anyone local that can help me for a cheap price?
I cant keep doing this.
I am going to try the drill mod first. I hope that solves/helps with the problem.
Any more help would be greatly appriciated.
But thanks everyone who offered help.
Josh