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Old 07-05-2006, 10:10 AM
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Default Master Question

Hey guys, my question is basically what starts happening if your master cylinder starts to go bad??

I'll just start from the beginning, my car had a bad tranny (synchro) and while I was saving money to get it fixed I obviously still drove it around. Pretty much the whole time I had my car, shifting into first gear while stopped was a little "notchy". It didn't grind, it just felt like it caught something while going into gear. Well, last week I bought a newly rebuilt T56 and replaced the slave cylinder as well. The tranny shifts great, but it too does the kinda notchy feel when going into first at stops. BUT it seems that if I double clutch it (using clutch to shift to neutral, let out, then clutch again to shift to first) it slides right in very smooth like it should. I am thinking that this is my master since maybe its not holding the pressure well or something, but thats why it works when I double clutch. What do you guys think, could this be my master causing the problem. I was going to get one anyways, but I was gonna wait a couple more weeks. BTW, I will also be doing the drill mod and making the master adjustable as well.
Old 07-05-2006, 10:27 AM
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When my master went out, I lost all pressure in the clutch. It went to the ground and stayed there.

Also, you have a pro 5.0 which is known for being notchy. My car feels the same way and I replaced the master and the slave.
Old 07-05-2006, 01:03 PM
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basically having the same issue here, one day I drove my car, and the tranny was hard to get into gear. also my clutch pressure seemed low. I replaced and rebuilt the tranny not to long ago, as well as added a spec 3 clutch and new slave, I just took out the master over the long weekend, and bench bleed it, no difference, so I picked up a new one today, hopefully I won't have to go back into the tranny again. try the master, if that is not it, guess slave is next, get a remote bleeder as well. wrap your line with heat wrap as well, it will help the fluid survive a bit longer if you have long tubes.
Old 07-06-2006, 02:05 AM
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I know the PRO 5.0 is kinda notchy, but this feels different. I guess if it still does it after the master install, it will just have to stay that way
Old 07-06-2006, 08:30 AM
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Like said above though, make sure to heatwrap the line that goes from the master to the slave. I would check the line to see how close it is to the headers. The headers could be boiling the fluid out of the line, I've had that happen to me too.

I had to heatwrap my line and also I started running DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3, its a little more heat resistant.
Old 07-06-2006, 08:46 AM
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Since nothing else is wrong besides the 'notchy' feel I wonder if it's just a misunderstanding of how the system works.
When the syncros stop spinning, then you have to mate the gears by pushing. If the teeth don't line up right then it's 'notchy' when you push the teeth together and displace one of the gear teeth.
When you go to neutral and let out the clutch you get the syncros spinning again and then when you clutch it and go to gear the syncros are assisting you.

It's the way my car always has been. sometimes at a stop light I can't get to first at all because the gear teeth line up perfectly point to point and I have to either go 2nd, then back to 1st, or get the syncros spinning again to go in gear.




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