Effort During Shifts?
FWIW the three setups I've driven have been...
Stock clutch, stock T56, aftermarket Hurst shifter, LSS
McLeod single disk, stock T56, aftermarket Hurst shifter, angled SS
Spec 3, T56 with synchros and steel shift forks, Pro 5.0, angled LSS
The mainly stock setup was pretty notchy and it was a new experience to quickly shift a notchy transmission. I couldnt pull off split-second shifts like I could in other cars that weren't notchy like that. The McLeod with the Hurst shifter was a bit less notchy but not by much and I had similar results. The T56 with the upgraded synchros and the Pro 5.0 is the least notchy but it still noticably "clicks" out of gear and into the next.
It takes some effort to shift, but not an unconfortable amount by any means. As long as your shifts are deliberate and direct (especially into 5th), it will go right into gear. However, if you get lazy and don't push/pull the lever all the way through its complete throw, you'll find yourself somewhere between your desired gear and neutral. And for reference my, my setup is a stock T56, stock LS1 Clutch, and Pro 5.0 with the standard stick.
I think no matter how you shift it, you always get the gear-neutral-gear pause/click between each shift. Its just the way the transmission is designed. The only time I don't notice it is when I slam 2nd gear really hard/fast, since I hardly give it time to pause between the shift
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so i guess the LS1's inherited the same trans attitude. im thinking the "click" is the driven gear spinning a little bit and sliding into the gear you selected. Trending Topics
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.If you have either of those then that's most likely your problem, go with a Pro 5.0
If you have either of those then that's most likely your problem, go with a Pro 5.0

Firs thing I would check though is the shift boots. If you try and use the stock rubber shift boot on the Pro 5.0 or B&M shifters, it binds up and prevents you from getting into certain gears. The stock boot needs to slide down around the base of the shifter, so it blocks dirt from coming in the car fom the bottom. If you put either the stock boot or the Hurst boot around the shifter stick, it binds up and makes it shift like crap. I tried using the Hurst boot on my Pro 5.0, and it was terrible.
Firs thing I would check though is the shift boots. If you try and use the stock rubber shift boot on the Pro 5.0 or B&M shifters, it binds up and prevents you from getting into certain gears. The stock boot needs to slide down around the base of the shifter, so it blocks dirt from coming in the car fom the bottom. If you put either the stock boot or the Hurst boot around the shifter stick, it binds up and makes it shift like crap. I tried using the Hurst boot on my Pro 5.0, and it was terrible.
Since getting the WS6 Store Short Stick, I can say I haven't had an issue with gear selection. Each shift is fairly certain that I am in a gear. It's not really a click, mine gives the sound like you are sliding wooden blocks into place.
Fifth is so easy to get into from fourth, it's the 2-3 shift I've had issues grinding, need the drill mod asap for my clutch.
Fifth is so easy to get into from fourth, it's the 2-3 shift I've had issues grinding, need the drill mod asap for my clutch.
If I floor the clutch and shift quickly, it grinds. So from there I determined its either the clutch not disengaging fast enough, or the synchro is bad. If I shift slowly, no grind. Probably not the clutch.
Then I went down the road, floored the clutch, waited 5 seconds, and shifted quickly into 3rd. Grind. So its not that the clutch isn't disengaging fast enough, but it could still be that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. However, it doesn't feel like the clutch is dragging, and the issue seems to get better (less gears grinding) as the car warms up.
So its most likely either the synchros or the clutch, I'm thinking synchros based on how it acts
Shifting is very clunky, I hate the clunk/clunk going in and out of gears...







