Spec Warranty?
Spec Warranty? I have a new spec 3 + with about 1k on it...no problems until today...I put a new spec billet steel fly and pilot bearing, and clutch....broke in went fine...drove to Houston and did dyno,,went fine...tonight, doing 70@4k in 4th gear...floor it and it starts slipping bad....calling spec in the morning and seing what they'll do...clutch and fly wheel are only a month old..should I upgrade to stage 5?..I was told by spec that the 3+ was my best bet since I put arouns 200 miles a week on the car...motor is in sig, spec said it was plenty....any suggestions? 
I would think that the 3+ would do the job, but a 4 or 5 would be a rough DD ride. I hate having a clutch that wants to chatter because it is such an aggresive grab....even at low RPM's and smooth shifts. I had the 3+ and didn't like it. Never slipped, but the chattering whipped my butt. I would seriously look into like the RAM twin disc or the Textralia EXO. See what SPEC has to say about the clutch first and how they will take care of it....If they even do. Good Luck to ya.
I had one that had very low miles but was 1-1/2 years old and they sent me a new a brand new kit for 175 shipped. I thought that was a great deal considering the age of the clutch.
Originally Posted by getusum
I have a new spec 3 + with about 1k on it...no problems until today...I put a new spec billet steel fly and pilot bearing, and clutch....broke in went fine...drove to Houston and did dyno,,went fine...tonight, doing 70@4k in 4th gear...floor it and it starts slipping bad....calling spec in the morning and seing what they'll do...clutch and fly wheel are only a month old..should I upgrade to stage 5?..I was told by spec that the 3+ was my best bet since I put arouns 200 miles a week on the car...motor is in sig, spec said it was plenty....any suggestions?
****!!!! Funny you post the same thing I was gonna post....I talked with Jeremy @ Spec today...he tells me the same thing(maybe some debris or fluid on the clutch) he says drive it alittle more and if it continues, pull the clutch take pictures and send them to Spec...I say why don't I send you the clutch, and he says It's standerd policy...What B.S...I installed new spec + 3 with new billet steel fly wheel....I know I'm getting it good and not getting kissed afterward.....
Sorry to hear this fellas... My 3+ has worked well for me so far. I dont drag race though. Im about 550+ to the wheels. I've got about 6,000 miles on the clock. I'm still on the stock 275, are you? Id like to know so that my junk doesent give out?
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Verdad Gallardo I'm on 275's. I don't think theres fluid on the disc because then it would be slipping at all speeds. It looks like i'm going to be pulling the tranny this weekend, this time i'm getting a Textalia
getusum-let me know how things go and i'll do the same.
getusum-let me know how things go and i'll do the same.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
We just installed a spec 3+ in our 500+rwhp car after we toasted the 3. I like the full-face disk...pedal feel is wierd after the drill mod (like stock). Just remember to locktight your fasteners (especially the pressure plate bolts with High-strenth), buy a new slave, and hose everything down with degreaser after bleeding the slave so that a puddle isn't sitting in your bellhousing just waiting to be picked up by the flywheel. This is just a few problems I had in the past. I hope our clutch holds the test of time. We shall see 
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
I wouldn't say they suck....our spec 3 held for almost 2 years...daily drivin' to work and every week at the track in the low 11's. We toasted a tru-trac before we toasted the clutch. We reached it's limits with the new cam and some really good rubber. Ofcoarse quite a few 5K+ dumps wern't nice to it
Ok, here is my problem,,,my tires are nitto 295/35..not the dr...just the 555(300 tread wear)..I agree with the fluid part....mine only slips when under high loads...I just got off the phone with spec..they gave me a re-call # to send my clutch back...I aked them to send me another clutch while examining my old one...now they want me to pay for the new one and if my old one is ok, then I'm stuck with 2 clutches...
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
That's not anything new....moser told us the same thing on a tru trac posi that took a crap on a brand new 12-bolt due to a machining formality and the fact that the preload on the carrier bearings was so tight that it took a 3ft crowbar to get it out. We now have one that works and one that's a great paper wieght
It's the standard insurance policey so the company doesn't get screwed. When you get it apart...look at the coloration of the flywheel and pressure plate (if it's severely discolored...bad...heat kills). Make sure that the bolts on the pressure plate didn't back out (it happens). And finally, check that slave for leaks....also, over-greasing the input shaft can screw you over as well...just lightly paint it on with a paint brush as to just see a film on the splines. You probably already know this stuff but I always liked people that recited the common stuff just incase I missed something...it happens. Good luck...I'll keep my fingers crossed on our install
Edit: If your feeling a vibe while slipping...check for disk warping and bolt's.
Also...it only takes a little contamination to render a clutch useless....I don't know how many people show up at my place having issues that didn't clean the preservative off of the new P-Plate and Flywheel with brake clean before the install
It's the standard insurance policey so the company doesn't get screwed. When you get it apart...look at the coloration of the flywheel and pressure plate (if it's severely discolored...bad...heat kills). Make sure that the bolts on the pressure plate didn't back out (it happens). And finally, check that slave for leaks....also, over-greasing the input shaft can screw you over as well...just lightly paint it on with a paint brush as to just see a film on the splines. You probably already know this stuff but I always liked people that recited the common stuff just incase I missed something...it happens. Good luck...I'll keep my fingers crossed on our installEdit: If your feeling a vibe while slipping...check for disk warping and bolt's.
Also...it only takes a little contamination to render a clutch useless....I don't know how many people show up at my place having issues that didn't clean the preservative off of the new P-Plate and Flywheel with brake clean before the install
Last edited by Rabidbandit; Oct 11, 2006 at 12:00 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
Oh....If your using shims...be mindful that if you have a new flywheel...the clutch might not release fully. I believe that shim was designed for flywheels that have been resurfaced to make up for the few thousanths they shaved off. You'll have to check with more folks on that...we didn't use ours and it applies fine and holds like hell.
I feel for you man, good luck with the whole thing. I've heard that was a big problem with spec, the cusomer service was not too great. I'm no mechanic so I had mti do it for me, that way I could blame them and they could blame spec, lol. So far so good...
Originally Posted by Rabidbandit
Oh....If your using shims...be mindful that if you have a new flywheel...the clutch might not release fully. I believe that shim was designed for flywheels that have been resurfaced to make up for the few thousanths they shaved off. You'll have to check with more folks on that...we didn't use ours and it applies fine and holds like hell.
If I am not mistaken too much shim would cause it to be disengaged at the very top of the pedal or partially disengaged before you even touch the pedal.