bleading the clutch
bleading the clutch Ok I have been bleeding the air out and I have gotten it all out but the clutch pedal is really soft and I can’t figure out why.
Help!!!!
I'm not going to use one of those bleeding machines either.
Help!!!!
I'm not going to use one of those bleeding machines either.
I've posted this before, I don't know what the big problem is.
Get a nice locking 1/4" ratchet. Locking as in, adjustable head angle.
7/16" short chromoly socket for the bleeder.
Fill clutch res. with fluid and recheck after every bleed.
Get a buddy up in the car. Count off 1,2,3... holding, loosen the bleeder.
Have him count off pumps again... 1, 2, 3....holding. Loosen the bleeder and so on.
I have mine set and rock hard in about 3 bleeds. I always do it manually FWIW.
Make sure you and your buddy make the whole thing clear. Sounds stupid, but it just simplifies the whole process.
Get a nice locking 1/4" ratchet. Locking as in, adjustable head angle.
7/16" short chromoly socket for the bleeder.
Fill clutch res. with fluid and recheck after every bleed.
Get a buddy up in the car. Count off 1,2,3... holding, loosen the bleeder.
Have him count off pumps again... 1, 2, 3....holding. Loosen the bleeder and so on.
I have mine set and rock hard in about 3 bleeds. I always do it manually FWIW.
Make sure you and your buddy make the whole thing clear. Sounds stupid, but it just simplifies the whole process.
This is what I posted in another thread about a week ago in regards to master replacement and bleeding... IF you have done the drill mod you probably will not have to wait the three or so seconds..
IMO, take the black boot oput and fill the reservoir, it holds more like that.
Look above the Braided clutch line going into the bellhousing. -It's slightly recessed, so you'll have to feel for it. Above it there is a 11mm head for the bleeder. You can squeaze a 3/8" ratchet and a shallow 11mm socket in there.
It's the same as bleeding the brakes. Have a buddy up top. Take the black boot out of the reservoir and fill it up, replace the cover. Check it every two or three pumps. Don't get the brake fluid on the paint. It will eat the paint off of whatever it lands on. Push pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, bring pedal back up. Repeat as necissary. It will save some hassle to bench bleed the master before you install it. If you don't, you will push air into your Slave, and make this a much more complicated job than it has to be. There is a quick disconnect on the slave. You can push the plastic ring in with two small screwdrivers. WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT EXH! I burnt the **** out of my arm doing this! Darn hot primaries.
If you decide to bench bleed it, take the braided line off. and you mind aswell perform the drill mod while you are in there. Check my link in sig. I have a writeup for the drill mod and master replacement on page 2. (my cardomain site)
This is a pic of the GM disconnect too, you don't NEED it, but I got it w/ my transmission. (T56R rocks!)
IMO, take the black boot oput and fill the reservoir, it holds more like that.
Originally Posted by Bayer-Z28
Look above the Braided clutch line going into the bellhousing. -It's slightly recessed, so you'll have to feel for it. Above it there is a 11mm head for the bleeder. You can squeaze a 3/8" ratchet and a shallow 11mm socket in there.
It's the same as bleeding the brakes. Have a buddy up top. Take the black boot out of the reservoir and fill it up, replace the cover. Check it every two or three pumps. Don't get the brake fluid on the paint. It will eat the paint off of whatever it lands on. Push pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, bring pedal back up. Repeat as necissary. It will save some hassle to bench bleed the master before you install it. If you don't, you will push air into your Slave, and make this a much more complicated job than it has to be. There is a quick disconnect on the slave. You can push the plastic ring in with two small screwdrivers. WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT EXH! I burnt the **** out of my arm doing this! Darn hot primaries.
If you decide to bench bleed it, take the braided line off. and you mind aswell perform the drill mod while you are in there. Check my link in sig. I have a writeup for the drill mod and master replacement on page 2. (my cardomain site)
This is a pic of the GM disconnect too, you don't NEED it, but I got it w/ my transmission. (T56R rocks!)
Last edited by bayer-z28; Nov 6, 2006 at 10:41 PM.
Originally Posted by BAD *** TA WS6
I've posted this before, I don't know what the big problem is.
Get a nice locking 1/4" ratchet. Locking as in, adjustable head angle.
7/16" short chromoly socket for the bleeder.
Fill clutch res. with fluid and recheck after every bleed.
Get a buddy up in the car. Count off 1,2,3... holding, loosen the bleeder.
Have him count off pumps again... 1, 2, 3....holding. Loosen the bleeder and so on.
I have mine set and rock hard in about 3 bleeds. I always do it manually FWIW.
Make sure you and your buddy make the whole thing clear. Sounds stupid, but it just simplifies the whole process.
Get a nice locking 1/4" ratchet. Locking as in, adjustable head angle.
7/16" short chromoly socket for the bleeder.
Fill clutch res. with fluid and recheck after every bleed.
Get a buddy up in the car. Count off 1,2,3... holding, loosen the bleeder.
Have him count off pumps again... 1, 2, 3....holding. Loosen the bleeder and so on.
I have mine set and rock hard in about 3 bleeds. I always do it manually FWIW.
Make sure you and your buddy make the whole thing clear. Sounds stupid, but it just simplifies the whole process.
Originally Posted by BlackSS2001
ok I'm not stupid I know how to bleed the system I got all the air out but the pedal isn't at stiff as it was before and my buddy and I whent threw the 1 2 3 holding thing over 20 times
I wasn't calling you stupid....
Are these all factory hydraulic parts, no drill mod, etc?
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
im having the same problem. stock hyd. bled the hell out of it with power bleeder and still no pedal. 
is my master gone? after i bled it the pedal got better but not perfect, after i drove it a while went back to mush.
is my master gone? after i bled it the pedal got better but not perfect, after i drove it a while went back to mush. Trending Topics
BlackSS2001, did you bench bleed the master before you installed the McLEod MC?? I had to bench bleed mine quite a bit before I it got rock hard. I take it you have a 4th gen, judging by your avatar and sig pic.
Where is the pedal adjusted to? The top?
Take the rubber boot out of the resevoir when bleeding it. It'll hold a lot more fluid.
Where is the pedal adjusted to? The top?
Take the rubber boot out of the resevoir when bleeding it. It'll hold a lot more fluid.
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Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
if all else fails old style bleeding. open bleeder put a 12 in piece of plastic tubing on bleeder snug fit put the other end in a glass jar that has a little fluid in it tube into fluid have some one SLOWLY PUMP CLUTCH WITH CAP OFF ya should see air bubbles and or fluid start to come out have pusher check master dont run out . slow pumping if ya do it fast ya can aerate the fluid and you will be there forever. run a pint through and with pedal to floor tighten bleeder
Yeah I have a 4th gen and no I didn't bench bleed it. The quick disconnect leaks really bad. I was wondering what if I took my tranny back out and unhooked the throw out bearing so it just hung there and then bleed it like that would that work???
I bought a mityvac and I still haven't gotten it to bleed out right yet
Also there is a spring on the clutch pedal and mine broke and i'm not sure how it goes back in I was wondering if anyone could get a pic for me or something. (it's above the connecting rod on the pedal)
Thanks for all the help!
I bought a mityvac and I still haven't gotten it to bleed out right yet
Also there is a spring on the clutch pedal and mine broke and i'm not sure how it goes back in I was wondering if anyone could get a pic for me or something. (it's above the connecting rod on the pedal)
Thanks for all the help!