LS7 clutch install ?
LS7 clutch install ? Just purchased an LS7 clutch kit from BYUNSPEED (AWESOME VENDOR BY THE WAY), quick question.
The kit comes with the LS7 PP, disc, and an LS2 flywheel. I already have the 01-02 slave cylinder, so the clutch should just be a straight forward install, right? Also got new flywheel to crank bolts. Has anyone had to shim the slave or anything like that on one of these clutches?
The kit comes with the LS7 PP, disc, and an LS2 flywheel. I already have the 01-02 slave cylinder, so the clutch should just be a straight forward install, right? Also got new flywheel to crank bolts. Has anyone had to shim the slave or anything like that on one of these clutches?
no shimming is involved with the LS7/LS2 setup, its a pretty straight-forward install. You might want to think about replacing the pilot bearing though, especially if your car has a decent amount of miles on it.
Also, just to worn you so you dont get affraid when your done, the pedal is going to engage right off the floor for about the first 500 miles or so. Dont worry it will come back up. If your still having engagement problems after the break-in period, then post up and we'll try and help you out.
Also, just to worn you so you dont get affraid when your done, the pedal is going to engage right off the floor for about the first 500 miles or so. Dont worry it will come back up. If your still having engagement problems after the break-in period, then post up and we'll try and help you out.
Thanks, my car has 50,000 miles on it right now, think I should replace that pilot bearing? I guess I might as well while I am in there, its only a couple bucks anyway. I can't wait to install this thing, unfortunately I have to wait a couple of months until I get home. My car will be sitting right around 400/400 at the wheels, so I think this clutch will be a good choice. I'm glad that the pedal will engage low though, the way the stock one engages near the top of the pedal travel makes me nervous!
sounds like it will be a perfect clutch for you power wise. im making around 380-390 to the wheel now without spray and mines holding up fine. i havnt sprayed on it yet though, so im keeping my fingers crossed.
As far as the low engagement, it will come back up to about where the stock pedal was after about 500 miles. so try not to get to used to it being so low.
As far as the low engagement, it will come back up to about where the stock pedal was after about 500 miles. so try not to get to used to it being so low.
Originally Posted by JZ28
Thanks, my car has 50,000 miles on it right now, think I should replace that pilot bearing? I guess I might as well while I am in there, its only a couple bucks anyway. I can't wait to install this thing, unfortunately I have to wait a couple of months until I get home. My car will be sitting right around 400/400 at the wheels, so I think this clutch will be a good choice. I'm glad that the pedal will engage low though, the way the stock one engages near the top of the pedal travel makes me nervous!
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hobbs, NM
LS7 clutch pre adjustment I have been reading alot in the last 3 weeks about clutches and the pedal sticking to the floor issue. I have this problem now that I did a head/cam swap and the pedal sticks to the floor at high rpm.
I have decided to change to the LS7/LS2 clutch setup. There seems to be 3 concerns about this setup. The first is low clutch engagement point after install and second, is the clutch pedal sticking and third, glazing the disc.
I found a post over on the ls1gto.com forum where there is a pre-adjustment that needs to be done to the pressure plate before it is ever installed. This pressure plate is self adjusting. This pre-adjustment is suppose to fix it so that it doesn't engage right off the floor after install. Go to this link and go down to post #5 and click on the attachments to see the instructions.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128966
The most important thing that seems to keep the clutch to live is to do the DRILL MOD whether it is the LS7/LS2 setup or any clutch setup using our hydraulic system. I am going to do this in both the m/c line and the slave line. The restrictions in the lines slow the fluid down to much which causes the pressure plate to engage and release to slow which allows the disc to slip and generate way to much heat. All of this happens at high rpm which really causes massive amounts of excessive heat. This is where the glazing comes from. Also the excessive heat causes the hydraulic fluid to expand which doesn't allow for total clutch release. Here is a link that shows a drill mod to the slave line.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_05...all/index.html
You can see how to do the m/c line at www.installuniversity.com
I have decided to change to the LS7/LS2 clutch setup. There seems to be 3 concerns about this setup. The first is low clutch engagement point after install and second, is the clutch pedal sticking and third, glazing the disc.
I found a post over on the ls1gto.com forum where there is a pre-adjustment that needs to be done to the pressure plate before it is ever installed. This pressure plate is self adjusting. This pre-adjustment is suppose to fix it so that it doesn't engage right off the floor after install. Go to this link and go down to post #5 and click on the attachments to see the instructions.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128966
The most important thing that seems to keep the clutch to live is to do the DRILL MOD whether it is the LS7/LS2 setup or any clutch setup using our hydraulic system. I am going to do this in both the m/c line and the slave line. The restrictions in the lines slow the fluid down to much which causes the pressure plate to engage and release to slow which allows the disc to slip and generate way to much heat. All of this happens at high rpm which really causes massive amounts of excessive heat. This is where the glazing comes from. Also the excessive heat causes the hydraulic fluid to expand which doesn't allow for total clutch release. Here is a link that shows a drill mod to the slave line.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_05...all/index.html
You can see how to do the m/c line at www.installuniversity.com
^^ good info, dont know about pre-adjusting it. i havnt heard of anyone who has tried it yet, but it makes sense.
As far as the clutch pedal sticking, i would go ahead and just get the updated slave cylinder for now, and then if the pedal is sticking do the drill mod later. it wont be a big deal since the trans doesnt have to be pulled again to get to the master cylinder.
I havnt had any problems with the pedal sticking with my car. i have about 3,000 miles on my Ls7 clutch.
As far as the clutch pedal sticking, i would go ahead and just get the updated slave cylinder for now, and then if the pedal is sticking do the drill mod later. it wont be a big deal since the trans doesnt have to be pulled again to get to the master cylinder.
I havnt had any problems with the pedal sticking with my car. i have about 3,000 miles on my Ls7 clutch.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hobbs, NM
I am going to put all new hydraulics in mine. 04 Z06 slave and m/c. According to some pretty good sources, those are the best from GM for high performance applications. My car is a Vette and I know these will fit my car but I am not sure on a f body.
I haven't seen anybody on this forum mention the pre-adjustment, so I thought I would put it up and hopefully this will fix some on the problems.
I haven't seen anybody on this forum mention the pre-adjustment, so I thought I would put it up and hopefully this will fix some on the problems.
Last edited by bfhawki; Jan 24, 2007 at 02:06 PM.
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I haven't heard anybody say anything about pre-adjustment either. I don't think you need to. The pedal is supposed to engage right off the floor when you first break it in. Mine did and it went away within the first 200 miles. The only problems that I've had so far is the clutch does get a little soft after back-to-back runs at the track. Other than that, I haven't had any problems in the ~12000 miles that I've had mine in.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hobbs, NM
Alot of people say that the clutch engages to close to the floor right after install and that they have a problem getting it gear without grinding. Some have to turn the car off to go to reverse if you are coming from 1st gear and need to back up. Then they have to turn the car off after backing to put it in 1st. Some cases seem to be worse than others.
Hopefully, doing this pre-adjustment will end that.
Hopefully, doing this pre-adjustment will end that.
Originally Posted by bfhawki
Alot of people say that the clutch engages to close to the floor right after install and that they have a problem getting it gear without grinding. Some have to turn the car off to go to reverse if you are coming from 1st gear and need to back up. Then they have to turn the car off after backing to put it in 1st. Some cases seem to be worse than others.
Hopefully, doing this pre-adjustment will end that.
Hopefully, doing this pre-adjustment will end that.
We need to find a "test subject" to try the pre-adjustment and see if it works.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hobbs, NM
I have ordered the LS7/LS2 clutch kit along with all the new Hydraulics from Gene at GMPartsHouse and they should be here next week. I am going to try to install them sometime within the next 3 weeks. I will try it then, maybe someone will be installing one sooner and can keep us posted.
From what I am understanding, you can tell by looking at the three springs that are just outside the fingers on the pressure plate, how much the self adjuster is pre set at. The more the 3 springs are compressed, the higher the release point is. I think in the newer units, GM is compressing the springs more from the factory.
From what I am understanding, you can tell by looking at the three springs that are just outside the fingers on the pressure plate, how much the self adjuster is pre set at. The more the 3 springs are compressed, the higher the release point is. I think in the newer units, GM is compressing the springs more from the factory.
Originally Posted by bfhawki
Alot of people say that the clutch engages to close to the floor right after install and that they have a problem getting it gear without grinding. Some have to turn the car off to go to reverse if you are coming from 1st gear and need to back up. Then they have to turn the car off after backing to put it in 1st. Some cases seem to be worse than others.
Hopefully, doing this pre-adjustment will end that.
Hopefully, doing this pre-adjustment will end that.
Mine engaged like stock(ls6) at 0 miles and 450 miles just before I sold the car.
Originally Posted by bfhawki
The LS7/LS2 clutch setup can be had for $398.05 which includes flywheel, pressure plate, and disc from a couple of different supporting vendors. It is suppose to be good up to 450 rwhp and has close to stock pedal feel.
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 993
Likes: 3
From: Waukesha,WI
cheapest i've seen is at byunspeed at $435 with bolts. Not shure shipping on that tho. that is the clutch pressure plate disc & ls2 flywheel. I think this is what i'm going with. heres a link if your interested. http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...79b46831a54ad1
Please quit posting about non-sponsors here or we will have to start locking accounts. Seems like every time the LS7 clutch is mentioned, the same people are quick to pimp non-sponsoring vendors and their prices here.