sprayjunkie

After installing an LS7 clutch kit in an 05 C6 Z51, we noticed the clutch was not disengaging properly, so, the drivetrain was lowered and the system was properly bled. Pain in the ***.
Now that its all back together, the clutch is still not disengaging properly. In order to engage reverse, we have to shut the car off and put it in reverse.
So, the drivetrain was dropped, clutch was re-bled, and same ****.

Anyone have some input here?
We're lost as to what to do next.
Is there something we're missing when installing an LS7 clutch in an LS2 vehicle?
The master is brand new as well.

TIA

My90Iroc

iTrader: (26)

This may help you...
http://www.gtoinfo.com/index.php/topic,13182.0.html

On a side note I always clutch in, put my shifter into first, then put it into reverse and it seems to make things a little smoother. I don't know how bad your problem is but I know as the LS7 breaks in the engagement point movers higher on the pedal. I also remember that the clutch was real grabby down low when first installed making think it was barely disengaging until it broke in. Good luck.

sprayjunkie

Thanks man!

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

welcome to my world. I havent had a car for a month because I have the same problem and only have the weekends to work on it. Wouldnt it be nice to install a part and be done with?

I have dropped the tranny 2x and have even replaced the master too. Same **** the clutch doesnt fully disengage.

I cant drive the car.

I'm wondering if I should try an adjustable master. Or i should give up and install a oem replacement.

BTW, i tried the adjustment as noted on the link above, didnt help.

Tell me. what are you going to try next, i am outta time and honestly have kinda given up on and LS7.
Wish I have never have gone with it.~!~!!!!!

vetred

You guys are SCARING me!!!!!!!!! so what is the word on the LS7 clutch in the C-5s??? and wasn't it only about 6 months ago the drag racers were saying that the LS6 clutch assembly was the best at least for the C-5??????? OH,........ya I'm gonna need a clutch just as soon as my head cam deal is done (in about 2 weeks) and YES I do have ALL the supporting mods! SO whats the deal??? What do you think I might look at for My C-5???

92slowmaro

iTrader: (22)

are you guys pumping up the pedal before you try and drive the car? just wondering..

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

If you want to take a chance i say go for it.!!

Of course the worst thing that can happen is you have a clutch that doesnt disengage without a real solution to fix it.

Not to mention, guaranteed low enagagement for the first 500 miles. and possible endless bleeding of the hydraulics,

Did i mentioned having to drop the tranny more than once to double check your work.

My advice would be if your ok with all of this then yes try it.
iF you must have your car back that same weekend, go with something proven to be installed without countless install issues.

I would of rather of had a clutch known for possibly failing under hard abuse than a clutch that has not been able to work period from the get go.!!!!

sprayjunkie

Wish I could tell you what we will try next....looks like its a real problem. Looks like more research.

Anyone else got an answer to this one?

Thanks

92slowmaro

iTrader: (22)

i did mine in less than 2 hours and its great...

did you torque it down properly? in the correct sequence?

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

It seems as though GMs hydraulic clutch set up just plain sucks.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

The GM hydraulics are defiantly part of the problem but i think the fact is you are takin a chance with this clutch, in the install part.

So yea I wish someone would of told me. In a heartbeat I would have reconsidered.

sprayjunkie

Amen....I've been telling people I'm gonna get rich making a hydraulic to cable conversion. Any takers?

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Was the LT1 a cable drive? I liked the feel of my LT1's clutch.

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

it needs time to break in thats all same stiuation for ls1's it is very very vERY low engagment after a few hundred its fine.

Slow01TA

iTrader: (3)

I don't know why some people have so much trouble with the LS7. I put mine in in about 3 hrs, only dropped the tranny once, bled it once, engaged right off the floor for the first 300-400 miles and then it moved up to stock engagement point after that. I've never had a problem with mine and it has a stock feel to it and it always grabs hard except for back to back runs at the track

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Slow01TA are you saying you can start the car in 1st gear with the clutch pedal down and the car not moving?

Cuz I cant start it in 1st without the car jumping forward.

And you drove it like that for 300 miles?

02silvaZ

iTrader: (12)

i just changed my clutch friday, installed LS7, great clutch, but GM set-up is pain in the rump!

Slow01TA

iTrader: (3)

No, I'm saying you have to continue to bleed it and start the car out of gear and then try to engage it into first. If it doesn't want to go in, continue to bleed it until it does. Even when you do get it to go into gear, it's going to disengage right off the floor for the first 300-400 miles until it adjusts itself.

EDIT: After you think that you have bled it enough( I went through pretty much a whole bottle of brake fluid), just get in the car and start pumping the clutch pedal. I pumped mine for a good 15 minutes at least. After about 15 mins, start the car and try to get it in to gear. If it still won't and you still have a really soft pedal, continue to pump the pedal until you do get some pressure. Eventually, you will get some pressure unless you have a leak somewhere. DON'T RE-BLEED after you have done all that pumping, because you'll just have to do it again

Fire-formula 93

iTrader: (1)

Lt1's have a different clutch design. I think its called a push style clutch versus the ls1's pull style. But it is still a hydraulic system, not cable actuated.