Air? Bad Slave? I'm puzzled.
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From: Toms River, NJ
Air? Bad Slave? I'm puzzled. Well, I've had clutch issues ever since I replaced my stocker. Threw a Textralia OZ700 in there a while back. It still grips like a mother, but thats when the clutch hydraulics are working right. The pedal always feels mushy and hard to push. Ive bled it, replaced the master with an 01-02, did the drill mod, aluminum heat taped the fluid line, and re-bled it. Still mushy. Then I go away for 3 weeks and the car sat, maybe for the first time since the new clutch. I come back and it feels the best its ever felt, strong grip, no noises, still a little mushy metal but much more solid and consistent. But as I continue to drive it regularly, I can feel it ever so slowly returning to mush. The slave was new with the clutch, but is it possible that I need a new slave again? Because this is getting real old, real fast. Suggestions?
One thing that I found help with my pedal feel was wraping the drivers side header with header wrap. I have a sticking pedal and bleed and bleed even replaced the master, nothing seemed to help. I finnally got some header wrap and did the header also put aluminum heat tape on the heat sheild. It still sticks some but I can actually get throught the first 4 gears at wot. My pedal problem started once I put the headers in so I kinda assumed my problem was the extra heat, I'm still thinking of replaceing the clutch and slave.
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From: Toms River, NJ
Apparently this is a common issue, lol. I have the line wrapped, I dont want to wrap my stainless headers, thats why I got stainless. 
They looks g000d. However, I could wrap the line again in something a bit more heat resistant. Either way, I dont think heat alone is my problem. Even after a fluid swap it works great for about, 5 minutes. lol I think my slave is shot, tho the headers boiling fluid isnt impossible... I was kinda hoping someone could figure it out. Mushy pedal travel sucks. My buddies exo skel feels kick ***, you can actually tell where the clutch engages/disengages when its not even running just by the feel of it, mines up in the air depending on what day it is. lmao
They looks g000d. However, I could wrap the line again in something a bit more heat resistant. Either way, I dont think heat alone is my problem. Even after a fluid swap it works great for about, 5 minutes. lol I think my slave is shot, tho the headers boiling fluid isnt impossible... I was kinda hoping someone could figure it out. Mushy pedal travel sucks. My buddies exo skel feels kick ***, you can actually tell where the clutch engages/disengages when its not even running just by the feel of it, mines up in the air depending on what day it is. lmao
Originally Posted by NOIR
Apparently this is a common issue, lol. I have the line wrapped, I dont want to wrap my stainless headers, thats why I got stainless. They looks g000d. However, I could wrap the line again in something a bit more heat resistant. Either way, I dont think heat alone is my problem. Even after a fluid swap it works great for about, 5 minutes. lol I think my slave is shot, tho the headers boiling fluid isnt impossible... I was kinda hoping someone could figure it out. Mushy pedal travel sucks. My buddies exo skel feels kick ***, you can actually tell where the clutch engages/disengages when its not even running just by the feel of it, mines up in the air depending on what day it is. lmao
They looks g000d. However, I could wrap the line again in something a bit more heat resistant. Either way, I dont think heat alone is my problem. Even after a fluid swap it works great for about, 5 minutes. lol I think my slave is shot, tho the headers boiling fluid isnt impossible... I was kinda hoping someone could figure it out. Mushy pedal travel sucks. My buddies exo skel feels kick ***, you can actually tell where the clutch engages/disengages when its not even running just by the feel of it, mines up in the air depending on what day it is. lmao Thread Starter
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From: Toms River, NJ
I know what you mean. I've spent way too much time and money on something this ridiculous. lol Anyone have any suggestions to possibly help cure this little problem a lot of us seem to have?
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Originally Posted by NOIR
I know what you mean. I've spent way too much time and money on something this ridiculous. lol Anyone have any suggestions to possibly help cure this little problem a lot of us seem to have?
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Brett Foote
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From: Port Charlotte, FL
My GTO would act up after long drives, so I slid some 1400* fiberglass braided sleeving over it than wrapped that with 800* insulated reflective wrap and replaced the fluid with Valvoline synpower synthetic brake fluid and it has been fine ever since. My car heats the hell out of the area where the clutch line is from the turbo kit and it hasn't missed a beat since the fluid change and line insulating.
Joe
Joe
I had somewhat of a similar problem when I replaced my clutch. I had the old 2000 hydraulics and was having pedal issues and needed a new clutch anyway. So the master, slave, and clutch were are replaced. Still had a hard time getting rid of the mush in the pedal and being able to shift right.
First thing I would do is test the master. Disconnect the line from the slave and try and push the pedal in. If the master is bled correctly and working right you won't be able to budge that pedal. Mine moved a little bit and I pushed a little bit harder and POW the line blew. I actually had a tiny TINY air leak in my line that wasn't allowing me to bleed it properly. Got a new line and no more problems.
I'd at least disconnect the line as that takes all of 5 min and check and make sure the master is working right and go from there.
First thing I would do is test the master. Disconnect the line from the slave and try and push the pedal in. If the master is bled correctly and working right you won't be able to budge that pedal. Mine moved a little bit and I pushed a little bit harder and POW the line blew. I actually had a tiny TINY air leak in my line that wasn't allowing me to bleed it properly. Got a new line and no more problems.
I'd at least disconnect the line as that takes all of 5 min and check and make sure the master is working right and go from there.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
Maybe there is a common factor in all of these...
Has anyone above used the MityVac on their Master Cylinder in the past?
I have the same mushy pedal feel, and I THINK it might be a ruined M/C from the MityVac...
Also, I still have the same steel braided line for 124K mi and maybe it is leeking a little...
Has anyone above used the MityVac on their Master Cylinder in the past?
I have the same mushy pedal feel, and I THINK it might be a ruined M/C from the MityVac...
Also, I still have the same steel braided line for 124K mi and maybe it is leeking a little...
The only reason I origanlly recomended heat was because the thread starter already has a new master and slave along with new clutch. One thing to remember is that when you install headers theres alot more heat everywhere. So not only is the line getting hotter but your whole tranny is getting hotter as well which is going to make all the fluid in the tranny hotter. Like I said I would try wrapping the drivers side header. You don't have to do the whole thing just from the primaries down. If it does't solve the problem you out like $20 and alittle time but its better than replacing the slave or master agian.
I wish there was an easy answer for this problem cause I've been struggleing with this problem for a couple months(not latley since my car is in the body shop for the last month) and the wrap is the only thing that has allowed be to run the car WOT through the first four gears, it still stick alittle but I can get through them atleast.
I wish there was an easy answer for this problem cause I've been struggleing with this problem for a couple months(not latley since my car is in the body shop for the last month) and the wrap is the only thing that has allowed be to run the car WOT through the first four gears, it still stick alittle but I can get through them atleast.
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From: Toms River, NJ
Well I spoke to Pete from Textralia last night and he seemed pretty certain that this was a pressure plate bolt slight thats not fully torqued and backing out. Although we did use locktite and torqued them all properly, its still possible. So I'm going to have a shop take a look at it, as well as re-wrap the fluid line with heat shielding. And obviously swap out the fluid, so I'll let you all know how that goes. It might be a week or 2, but I'll post when its done. I'm in the middle of a system install, so I gotta get that done first.
Originally Posted by NOIR
Well I spoke to Pete from Textralia last night and he seemed pretty certain that this was a pressure plate bolt slight thats not fully torqued and backing out. Although we did use locktite and torqued them all properly, its still possible. So I'm going to have a shop take a look at it, as well as re-wrap the fluid line with heat shielding. And obviously swap out the fluid, so I'll let you all know how that goes. It might be a week or 2, but I'll post when its done. I'm in the middle of a system install, so I gotta get that done first.
Yes please do post the results. It seems you can never find an answer to this problem eveyone always post that they have a problem but never come back and post what fixed it.