Clutch not disengaging
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Macungie, PA
Clutch not disengaging so heres the problem...
my car was in a wreck before i bought it. it was it pretty on the front driver side. the frame was still good so they just replaced all the broken parts. the problem is though that not the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. Ive tried to diagnose the problem but was unable to come up with a solution. the back of the pedal isn't hitting the firewall or anything and I have check the hydraulic system. I'm fresh out of ideas, anyone here have any for what i can look for or anything like that?
my car was in a wreck before i bought it. it was it pretty on the front driver side. the frame was still good so they just replaced all the broken parts. the problem is though that not the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. Ive tried to diagnose the problem but was unable to come up with a solution. the back of the pedal isn't hitting the firewall or anything and I have check the hydraulic system. I'm fresh out of ideas, anyone here have any for what i can look for or anything like that?
what clutch is in there? ive had a spec stage 3 clutch take a **** on me and it acted like it wouldnt disengage, because the center springs on the clutch fell out. i could have the clutch pedal down to the floor but it didnt help, and when i would have the clutch pedal down, car in gear and try to start it, the whole car would move
CHeck your hydraulics. Master cylinder for leaks, actual hydraulic line, and finally possibly pull the transmission to check the slave. If all is good then possibly worn out pressure plate.
Either way you got some work to do. Unless you want to pay and get the full system replaced.
Clutch plate and kit with all hydraulics.
Either way you got some work to do. Unless you want to pay and get the full system replaced.
Clutch plate and kit with all hydraulics.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 1
From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
Originally Posted by 2000Z28M6
CHeck your hydraulics. Master cylinder for leaks, actual hydraulic line, and finally possibly pull the transmission to check the slave. If all is good then possibly worn out pressure plate.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Macungie, PA
Well i checked it out a little bit (and i mean a LITTLE bit) and at 1st i thought that the back of the pedal was hitting the floorboards... what i found out its that its not. So now i'm not sure weather or not its going all the way down. something else would have to be hitting, its not the pedal. Like you said i'll have to get my hands dirty.
Trending Topics
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 1
From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
come over sometime and we can maybe figure it out. the way i figure it is that it has to be SOMETHING... just as long as it's SOMETHING, we can figure it out... right?
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Hey guys,
I had the same problem with My stock clutch after a wreck.
After much fussing I pulled it out and found the adjustment cam on the pressure plate set to full tight. I'm working the problem now.
I dont have any idea if you have the same clutch as me. Mine is a '04 cts-v
LS6 T56 with 16000 Miles
I had the same problem with My stock clutch after a wreck.
After much fussing I pulled it out and found the adjustment cam on the pressure plate set to full tight. I'm working the problem now.
I dont have any idea if you have the same clutch as me. Mine is a '04 cts-v
LS6 T56 with 16000 Miles
Stock GM clutches have the wear adjustment. There's a TSB about checking for proper setting cause they have a tendency to move during shipping. What's the condition of the bellhousing, motor mounts and trans mounts? If the input shaft isn't aligned properly it'll cause the disc to bind even though the pressure plate's moving.
My best guess is that the self-adjusters are no longer evenly set as a result of the crash. Years ago when we used the stock self-sdjusting plates you could see such issues if the box was dropped in route to yhr customer. If you pull the clutch assembly and take a few pics of the plate I can let you know if it is adjuster related. If so, you can compress the diaphragm with a press and use a flat-head screwdriver to reset the adjusters to their default/starting position. They will then reset when the kit is installed and actuated again. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
new info
what the S/B and the serv. manual does not tell is that the pressure plate must be suported by the housing (where the bolts go) not the plate face when you press the fingers.
hope that helps.
what the S/B and the serv. manual does not tell is that the pressure plate must be suported by the housing (where the bolts go) not the plate face when you press the fingers.
hope that helps.
