Question on bleeding clutch
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 567
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From: Chicago Suburb
Question on bleeding clutch I Changed clutch hydraulic fluid after 600 miles and it was a cloudy dark color. I couldn't believe it was that dark already. I got 2 5/8 oz out. I broke in the new clutch for 500 miles, drove to the drag strip made 6 passes and drove it home.
I think at a minimum this will need to be done every 3000 miles with oil changes.
My wife was actuating the pedal for me. She said a few times it didn't return all the way. I was bleeding out of a remote bleeder in the engine bay. I made sure the resevoir was full all the time. It did it twice while bleeding and once afterward. It was also hard to get it into gear the 1st few times and the car would start to move. Is this due to the slave maybe not being totally full with fluid after bleeding? I'm going to take it for a short drive to see if it's O.K. now.
I think at a minimum this will need to be done every 3000 miles with oil changes.
My wife was actuating the pedal for me. She said a few times it didn't return all the way. I was bleeding out of a remote bleeder in the engine bay. I made sure the resevoir was full all the time. It did it twice while bleeding and once afterward. It was also hard to get it into gear the 1st few times and the car would start to move. Is this due to the slave maybe not being totally full with fluid after bleeding? I'm going to take it for a short drive to see if it's O.K. now.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
i just used a mityvac on mine, was having similar problems. i haven't gotten to drive mine yet though since i'm still working on my 9". as far as the color of your old fluid, i would recommend changing it after every or every other dragstrip trip. you wouldn't believe what 5 or 6 passes do to your fluid. once it boils, it's just about done....and it's not hard to boil f-body clutch fluid since GM was smart enough to run the line right down the exhaust....
google "ls1 clutch bleeding" or something like that and try to find something that shows how to bleed with a mityvac, i dunno if i was close or what, but i had been bleeding traditionaly for over 30 minutes straight...clean clear fluid was coming out with no air and i still had NO pedal pressure at all. i put the mitivac line in and pumped up to 20 Hg of pressure ONE TIME and it was done. i have full pedal pressure now. i'm gonna check it again a couple days after i drive it to make sure it's still good.
google "ls1 clutch bleeding" or something like that and try to find something that shows how to bleed with a mityvac, i dunno if i was close or what, but i had been bleeding traditionaly for over 30 minutes straight...clean clear fluid was coming out with no air and i still had NO pedal pressure at all. i put the mitivac line in and pumped up to 20 Hg of pressure ONE TIME and it was done. i have full pedal pressure now. i'm gonna check it again a couple days after i drive it to make sure it's still good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Suburb
I wasn't having problems before. I just think this is overlooked and I wanted to see how bad it was.
The car worked fine when I took it for a spin afterwards. I think the pedal not returning was caused when my wife pressed the pedal and I cracked the bleeder, the pressure plate was probably not being pressed. Then when I would close the bleeder there was no pressure on the pressure plate to push the pedal back up.
It's working fine now. If it acts up, I'll hook the mityvac up.
The car worked fine when I took it for a spin afterwards. I think the pedal not returning was caused when my wife pressed the pedal and I cracked the bleeder, the pressure plate was probably not being pressed. Then when I would close the bleeder there was no pressure on the pressure plate to push the pedal back up.
It's working fine now. If it acts up, I'll hook the mityvac up.
