Clutch disengaging problem
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I had to replace my starter recently, which left me with two choices
- Remove motor to replace
- Remove tranny, clutch and flywheel to replace.
Even though removing my tranny requires me to lower my rear subframe, and slide the differential out I still opted to go this route.
During the starter swap I decided to install my Fidanza flywheel (13lb) which I've had sitting around for a while. Prior to this change everything worked great, however now the clutch will not disengage.
Previous setup - Centerforce Dual Friction 12", Centerforce steel flywheel
Current setup - Centerforce Dual Friction 12", Fidanza 13lb aluminum flywheel
Back in April I replaced the transmission, and during this process I also replaced the slave cyl.
Right now the car will just stall out if I force it to start while in gear. If I start in neutral, I am unable to shift into any gear as the clutch refuses to disengage.
I've bled the clutch numerous times, but still am not able to get the clutch to disengage. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know!
TIA
Joe
- Remove motor to replace
- Remove tranny, clutch and flywheel to replace.
Even though removing my tranny requires me to lower my rear subframe, and slide the differential out I still opted to go this route.
During the starter swap I decided to install my Fidanza flywheel (13lb) which I've had sitting around for a while. Prior to this change everything worked great, however now the clutch will not disengage.
Previous setup - Centerforce Dual Friction 12", Centerforce steel flywheel
Current setup - Centerforce Dual Friction 12", Fidanza 13lb aluminum flywheel
Back in April I replaced the transmission, and during this process I also replaced the slave cyl.
Right now the car will just stall out if I force it to start while in gear. If I start in neutral, I am unable to shift into any gear as the clutch refuses to disengage.
I've bled the clutch numerous times, but still am not able to get the clutch to disengage. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know!
TIA
Joe
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So I added a shim from Speed Inc today....and still no-go. I ordered two so I'll be installing the 2nd one as well and see if it makes it any better. If no-go again I'll just re-install my Centerforce flywheel.
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we had to do an adjustable piviot ball and new fork when new flywheel,clutch and p plate was installed the ball and fork ends were just too wore out, expecially with that little extra material that was added with new parts (only had 97k on old parts)
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So I added a shim...no go. At this point I was going to put the centerforce flywheel back in, so I remove the bellhousing, pressure plate and flywheel.
Through the removal I noticed that the ARP flywheel bolts were rubbing the springs on the clutch disk. I then put both the Centerforce and the Fidanza flywheels side by side on my bench and tested them with the ARP bolts. No matter which flywheel I mate the clutch up to, the ARP bolts were too tall. To my local $tealer I go tomorrow
![](http://www.hasanmotorsports.com/images/clutch/arp_med.jpg)
Through the removal I noticed that the ARP flywheel bolts were rubbing the springs on the clutch disk. I then put both the Centerforce and the Fidanza flywheels side by side on my bench and tested them with the ARP bolts. No matter which flywheel I mate the clutch up to, the ARP bolts were too tall. To my local $tealer I go tomorrow
![](http://www.hasanmotorsports.com/images/clutch/arp_med.jpg)
![](http://www.hasanmotorsports.com/images/clutch/disk2_med.jpg)
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Bought new hardware from my local dealer today, and installed tonight. The difference between GM bolts and ARP bolts are just a few mm....but it makes a world of difference.
We didn't get everything put back together (removing driveshaft on my car requires that the diff and rear subframe be dropped down), but I did get to a point where I could verify that the clutch was disengaging by turning the driveshaft by hand.
Whereas before I could barely turn the driveshaft with the car in gear and someone depressing the pedal. Tonight with everything reinstalled using GM flywheel bolts the driveshaft rotated like butter!
We didn't get everything put back together (removing driveshaft on my car requires that the diff and rear subframe be dropped down), but I did get to a point where I could verify that the clutch was disengaging by turning the driveshaft by hand.
Whereas before I could barely turn the driveshaft with the car in gear and someone depressing the pedal. Tonight with everything reinstalled using GM flywheel bolts the driveshaft rotated like butter!