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lightweight flywheel

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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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Default lightweight flywheel

only going to get one since this car is a street car roll racing only and im looking for that top end pull...its a 95 lt1 6 speed...looking for a list of the differant options weights and materials of the flywheels available including the stock weight?
and any experience that yall might have with them?
also are these available in balanced to stock lt1 specks? or neutral only?
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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I just got a McLeod aluminum LT1 flywheel. Pretty damn light for how chunky they look.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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ttttt
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 08:48 AM
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contact fidanza....

and check ebay for good prices....i picked up my ls1 fidanza for $299 shipped, while all the vendors had it at $350-400+ not including shipping.

the fidanza ls1 weighs in at 13lbs...stock was 26lbs...made a noticable difference in how fast the car revs. also increased the vibration from the motor. not sure if that was the clutch or the fw's fault.

i realize you're looking for an lt1...but i thought i'd post my ls1 reviews
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:06 AM
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relaly im interested in the driveability differance? hard to rpm match? under normal 2200 rpm shifts does it drop rpm too fast or too slow and jerk? or what?
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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If your looking for driveablity I would stay with a stock one. If your looking for faster revs than get an alum one. Alum fw are for racing due to the loss of rotating mass. which means the less weight the motor has to spin the more power it can apply to the ground. the reason they work for racing is because of the high rpm launching (the loss of weight is negated by the high rpm) but for street driving it takes a little finesse to use alum you have to slid the clutch more because the motor rpm will fall very quickly when pulling out from a stop there should be no change in driveabilty once your up and moving. where as the steel fw has inertia from the extra weight to help get the car moving without having to feed the car gas to keep the engine rpm up and it also helps keep the clutch alive which is why they come that way from the factory. I've read alot of different opinions on here some say that steel is better for racing and some say that alum is better for street driving.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by daniel6718
relaly im interested in the driveability differance? hard to rpm match? under normal 2200 rpm shifts does it drop rpm too fast or too slow and jerk? or what?
I've never noticed too much of a drop in RPMs between shifts, but it does take about an extra 200-300 RPMs over your standard traffic light standing start to get the car rolling without bogging too bad. Shifting has never been easier though...I really like my lightweight setup (RPS).
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