Problem Shifting at WOT
Problem Shifting at WOT Alright, I bought my car a couple of months ago, it's stock except for Flowmasters with a cut out, lid, and JAAM Ram Air. Whenever I really get on it, shifting past 4500 RPM is damn near impossible, the car runs perfect during normal driving but once i hit 4500+ RPM there seems to be a wall in between gears and i usually end up having to wait for the RPM to fall before shifting to the next gear. The car has 82k miles on her, I know there have been post's about this before but I'm still left with questions, I'm thinking about ordering a new master cylinder and was wondering if it's worth it to get an adjustable one or just an 01-02 gm? I'm also doing the drill mod while I have my master off so hopefully that'll help, what are the chances of this actually working? And if it doesn't work, what comes next? Thanks in advance,
Grant
Grant
From my experience its better to do the slave and master at the same time. Heres why, If you do only the master the slave may have some junk in it or be right behind going out like the master. Plus the slave maybe the reason its doing it as well. To answer your master question if you plan on using a stock clutch for the whole time you own the car just get the replacement. If you plan on putting in any after market clutch then go with the adjustable one. The only difference between an OEM and Ram adj. master is the fact that the Ram is adjustable. It still utilizes the same master cylinder though. And depending on how many miles you have on the car you might be better off doing the clutch and fly wheel. I know it makes the cost like 5X as much then just doing a master but trust me your gonna do the rest of that stuff anyway and if you do it all at once your trans only comes out 1 time. My situation started with the Slave, fixed that then the master went out,fixed that and the pressure plate exploded off the stock LS6 clutch in my car. I did the drill mod when I put the Slave in and the other components could not handle it. FYI my car had 36K on it and the Clutch looked brand new when I pulled it out! Make sure you bleed your system correctly when you do it or your in a whole nother world of a sticking clutch or no or low pressure. Good luck and any more Q's just let me know.
Hm... I'm planning on going with an aftermarket sooner or later, I don't have a job right now so this is kind of a squeeze as is. I start a new job in March but I want the problem fixed before then, I think I'll just order an adjustable master cylinder, put that in and do the drill mod and when the time comes replace the clutch and the slave. I just hope that solves my problem for the most part, I'm really not looking forward to taking off my tranny either and it changing the master doesn't require it. I bled my system and changed the fluid last week so that's fine for now, do I have to have someone adjust the new master or is it something I can do myself?
Hm... I'm planning on going with an aftermarket sooner or later, I don't have a job right now so this is kind of a squeeze as is. I start a new job in March but I want the problem fixed before then, I think I'll just order an adjustable master cylinder, put that in and do the drill mod and when the time comes replace the clutch and the slave. I just hope that solves my problem for the most part, I'm really not looking forward to taking off my tranny either and it changing the master doesn't require it. I bled my system and changed the fluid last week so that's fine for now, do I have to have someone adjust the new master or is it something I can do myself?
You should atleast do the the slave and master. My buddy did just the master and then there was some junk in his slave that got into the new master and had to do it all over again and a Slave. It will cost like 300$ for a slave and master. Check out New Era Performance they have the good stuff and are very good to deal with. Good luck!
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you dont really need an adj master, like someone already stated, the only real difference is that one is adjustable, but there is a write up on here on how to make an adjustable stock master, and im pretty sure its cheaper. plus i would go with mcloud over ram. oh and i just saw a transmission floor jack in summit, which would make it sooo much easier than it was when i did it.
you dont really need an adj master, like someone already stated, the only real difference is that one is adjustable, but there is a write up on here on how to make an adjustable stock master, and im pretty sure its cheaper. plus i would go with mcloud over ram. oh and i just saw a transmission floor jack in summit, which would make it sooo much easier than it was when i did it.
you dont really need an adj master, like someone already stated, the only real difference is that one is adjustable, but there is a write up on here on how to make an adjustable stock master, and im pretty sure its cheaper. plus i would go with mcloud over ram. oh and i just saw a transmission floor jack in summit, which would make it sooo much easier than it was when i did it.
I have never tried to do it on jacks but you would have to get it pretty high to have enough room I would think. If you can find someone with a lift thats your best bet. Or even if you know someone that works at a jiffy lube so you can go underneath in the oil pit with a normal trans jack.
I have never tried to do it on jacks but you would have to get it pretty high to have enough room I would think. If you can find someone with a lift thats your best bet. Or even if you know someone that works at a jiffy lube so you can go underneath in the oil pit with a normal trans jack.
dude you should buy the slave and the master at the same time as stated above. I just blew up my clutch and I bought the ram adjustable master and gm performance slave, price on it wasnt to bad. I was having the same problem you were shifting at high r's so Im replacing it all.
I would pull the master and do the drill mod as it's free and often solves the issue (although it is a pain to put the master back in). If that doesn't work, then move on to other things that cost money.
I dont think that would work. I think if anything he should just bleed the system first. Thats how I started. But it didnt help at all and my fluid was black with plastic chunks in it!
Already bled my system, made a difference, and I'm 95% sure that one of the causes of the problem is heat. I'm going to wrap my lines when I finally get to ordering the parts, I think I'll be able to use a lift at the local Quick Car, not 100% sure though.
damn dude that manager is a dick, howd you get that to work? lol whos tools are you using? i can never even find the right socket at your house! lol. you at least need a clutch alignment tool.
