Clutch Issues(I think)
Clutch Issues(I think) So I start my car and let it warm up for about 15min while I get ready for work. I try to put the car in reverse and it won't go. Then I try 5 it goes then back to reverse and all is good. Back out and go to first...won't go then very notchy going into second. Stop at the light, back to first won't go. I get out of town and it starts shifting fine all the way to work. Is this just an m6 thing or is there something wrong here. Also I seems to me that my clutch doesn't engage until half way or more through the travel. Is that right, or does my clutch need to be adjusted? Could this have anything to do with my gears being hard to shift into?
Last edited by Swaie; Feb 7, 2008 at 11:02 AM.
That's very similar to the clutch master/slave problems I was having.
Try bleeding the system with new fluid... See the thread in the manual section, top o the page.
If the bleed doesn't work, expect 300-400$ for a new GM Master/slave. Or if you're lucky and find a good one on here.
And it's a biatch and a half to swap the slave.
Try bleeding the system with new fluid... See the thread in the manual section, top o the page.
If the bleed doesn't work, expect 300-400$ for a new GM Master/slave. Or if you're lucky and find a good one on here.
And it's a biatch and a half to swap the slave.
If you get a mighty vac, you can take one of the semi pointed fittings that fits the hole in the bottom of the brake reservoir tightly. Put it in with 6 or 8 feet of line then the vacuum gun. Put 15 or 20 on the gauge and push the clutch to the floor. You can sit in the seat with it in hand and do this alone. You will see the bubbles coming up. Just vary between clutch down, clutch out and pumping it, maintaining the 15 or 20 of vacuum. When the bubbles change to foam, maintain clutch down and perfectly still until they stop. When it stops completely put the top on the reservoir and drive it, then come home and check for more bubbles that move around and come loose. Repeat until all have been removed.Fast and easy. Works better than other methods. If I remember right Sears has a cheap plastic one for 25.00 or Harbor Freight. And then there is a 50.00 dollar one in Alum at Harbor Freight. Auto stores carry them sometimes. Just dont get any fluid in the pump.
Last edited by BOONE; Mar 14, 2015 at 12:20 PM.
Have you ever tried to pump the clutch pedal and see i it goes in better? That'll pretty much tell you if it is the slave or not. Mine done all of this and I put it off until one faithful night I tried a cam/header/gear TA with exhaust only. After hitting 3rd gear so hard the car busted sideways in the middle of the road, it was time to tear it out. Only to find 3rd gear busted, a shift fork broke, pilot bearing was ****, and synchros out. Oh not to mention the clutch was completely torched.
I'm dropping mine every 20k or so, but that's an arbitrary number. It looks good here.
The clutch fluid I would flush once a year or more.
