im trying to pull my tranny and cant seem to find the last of the 8 15 mm bolts that connect the tranny to the bellhousing. i pulled the one at the very top left, and cant locate the top right. ive checked a couple write ups and it says to pull the tranny out with the bellhousing, then remove the bellhousing. install university doesn't recommend this. ive removed every other bolt and have a lot of extensions already. someone pls help so i can finish before dark. if anyone has some old pics from their own tranny removal, that would be awsome.

 

Did you get the one straight up at 12 o'clock? The one on the high right is sometimes blocked by the vent tube. Pull the tranny first ,off the bell, and then pull the bell. It's easier that way.

Sorry, just reread your post and saw that you are pulling the trans first.

 

yeah im leavin the bellhousing on cause im just sending the tranny to get rebuilt.

 

Follow the vent tube up. The upper right bolt should be right behind that tube.

 

Thanks, will update if I'm too blind to find it.

 

I'm going to bed, couldn't find that blasted bolt. I followed the vent tube, ran my hand along the same path of the other bolts, and did not find it. There was a wiring harness that seems to be piched and can't be moved at all. I'll figure out where it connects to up top and it will prob be right there. Need to leave before I get too pissed off.

 

Good luck... Shoot me a pm if you like I'll take a pic of my bell so you can see where they are.

 

Hope the pics help!

 

Thanks for the pics, I'm going to attack it again tonight.

 

if you still have stock exhaust,it would really help a lot if you take em down.gives you more clearance on the passenger side.

 

Our trans came back today, so if you ned a different pic, let me know. I can say that the bolt with the tube is a bitch. Not a lot of room. We let the engine down as far as we could to get clearance to get two swivels and a few extensions in.

It isn't a finished document yet, and the pics are not all ready, but here is part of the writeup I am working on for pulling the T56...
__________________________________________________ _____________
Removing a T56 Transmission.

Typical Tools:

5/16" wrench
10 mm wrench and socket
13 mm wrench and socket
15 mm wrench and socket
small pick or screwdriver for removing electrical connections
3/8" ratchet, extensions and two universal joints.
common handtools.


Process:

NOTE: The T56 6 speed transmission is extremely heavy. Use of a transmission jack highly recommended. Use common sense.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove center console cover, shift handle, and shifter from trans.

Using a lift (prefered) or sturdy jackstands, raise the vehicle as high as you safely can.
The higher the better. Depending on your vehicle, you may have to remove portions of your exhaust system.

Drain the transmission and dispose of fluids safely.


Remove driveshaft. To do this, remove the universal joint straps at the pinion yoke of the differential, and carefully slide the driveshaft forward to unseat the u-joint and carefully slide the driveshaft back out of the transmission. Have tape handy to bind the free caps on the u-joint. Do not allow the bearing caps to slide off, as the needle bearings inside are easily lost/contaminated. Unless they have been changed recently, consider having both universal joints serviced while driveshaft is removed.

Loosen the bolts holding the transmission cross-member to the vehicle, and also loosen the bolts attaching the cross-member to the transmission mount. Inspect the mount and determine if you need to replace it while the transmission is being serviced.

Remove the electrical connections from the transmission. On the passenger side, there is one connection for the back-up lights. On the driver side there are the connections for the reverse lock-out solenoid, the CAGS solenoid, and the VSS.

Disconnect the hydraulic coupling for the slave cylinder at this time. There are special tools for the quick disconnect, or carefull use of two small screwdrivers will often work as well.

Remove the transmission to bellhousing bolts that are easily reached. Several of the bolts are very difficult to reach, and will be removed in a later step.

Using a floor jack and a block of wood, carefully support the engine under the oilpan. Do not raise the engine, only support it. Using a transmission jack, support the transmission.

Remove the transmission crossmember from the vehicle.

Moving between the jacks, tilt the transmission/engine downward a few degrees. It is helpful to have an observer paying attention to the engine compartment to ensure nothing is damaged. Once enough clearance is created to allow access, locate the remaining transmission to bellhousing bolts. The two bolts located at the top are very difficult to remove, and will require patience. The upper bolt on the passenger side also support the bracket for the breather tube, as well as the wiring clamp for the backup light harness. This harness must be freed from this clamp before removing the transmission. There are additional harness clamps on the driver side of the vehicle that need to be freed as well. Move wiring harness out of the way.

Before removing the remaining bolts, replace the two easy to reach bolts at the bottom of the trans. Do not tighten, these bolts are just beeing used to safely hold the transmission until you are ready to seperate it.

Remove the other trans to bellhousing bolts. This usually will require the use of several extensions and swivel (universal) joints.

When the bolts are removed, double jack the transmission jack to ensure it can safely support the wieght of the trans. Verify that the jack under the oilpan is supporting the rear of the engine.

Remove the two loose bottom bolts. Carefully slide the transmission towards the rear of the vehicle. Using the transmission jack tilt features, carefully menuever the trans down and away from the bellhousing. Care must be taken to avoid damaging the input shaft of the transmission.

With the aid of a helper, transfer the transmission from the transmission jack to a suitable holding device.

The transmission is ready to be serviced.

If the clutch assembly is also in need of service, follow the additional steps.


Not much yet, but note the part about needing swivels and extensions!

 

When u tilted the engin/tranny, did u tilt it toward the front or rear of the car. How tall of a block of wood did u use for the engins support under the oil pan? Thnx for the help, good write up as well.

 

Nice write up. Look forward to the finished product... The 20" extension, with a swivel, is one of the one "must have" tools for me when pulling a tranny.

 

You need to lower the rear of the engine, makes the bolts easier to get to. I have 3 2x6's screwed together that I put on a floor jack.

 

it5s a bitch... break out the 3lb rubber hammer

 

I use a chunk of 2x4 to protect the oilpan from the jack, and also use a 2'x2' piece of MDF to let another jack hold up the rear of the exhaust. I don't think that trick would work in a fourth gen though. I do believe the exhaust has to come out on a fourth gen. The bolt with the tube is a bitch, no lying there. We tilted the engine back while someone watched the firewall and steering box (recall we used a 67 Camaro for this), and that gave us the room to get into the bolt. Not looking forward to putting it back in. I can get a better pic of that tube and bolt if you need it, the trans is sitting on a cart right now.

 

That'd be awsome for a pic up close to that tube so I can find that bolt. My problem is seeing the damn thing. Wish I had midget hands right now to feel it

 

got that sumbitch out this morning, thanks for all the help and the pics guys. sending the tranny off to tick performance to get their level 3 rebuild/upgrade on monday.