gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

how do i tell if the trans mount needs to be replaced or not? I have been having trouble shifting and i just did the drill mod and it seems better but still having a problem. it will either grind or not go into gear on WOT shifts. Could this possibly be causing my problem? my car has 120,000 miles.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

c'mon guys, need an answer

DarkCloud

i would say with 120k your transmount is definately gone.. i just replaced mine, and i am at 90k. my old one was literally almost ripped in two. i go a polyurethane engery suspension tranny mount from jegs.. and it was literally one of the best things i have done.. the car feels way better. what is your clutch pedal free play like?? i used to have the same problem.. and i did the adjustable master cylinder mod, and i can WOT shift no problem now.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

if your trans mount is gone then the shifter would move around alot, try this, cruise normally in 5th gear and give it a little throttle, if you see your shifter moving up and down alot and side to side then your mount is gone! i put on a prothane poly mount! and i love the interior noise now, it changed my interior noise completly which i love!

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

i looked at it today and it looked fine but im not sure if i was looking at the right thing. could somene post a pic of where the mount is located?

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

i tried what you said and it did not shake much at all, just normal vibrations.

ONEBADASSWS6

If the mount of broken, you will feel/see the shifter moving up and down when you get on or off the throttle.

Doesn't sound like the problems you are having are caused by a bad mount. Trust me, if its broken and causing you to have trouble shifting, you'd definitely know it.

Replacing the mount is a good idea anyway though, upgrade to a polyurethane one from Energy Suspension or Prothane, it will keep the entire drivetrain in place better.

As for the grinding, there are 2 common causes. One is synchros, the other is the clutch not disengaging. Try putting the car in gear with the clutch in and see if it starts to roll forward at all. If so, the problem is the clutch. If the clutch seems fine, you probably have worn synchros/blocker rings that are causing it to grind when you shift at high RPM.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

if the synchros are getting worn which is probably the case is it to safe to drive if its grinding on shifts. it will still sometimes grind if u shift hard or quickly. but its usually just 4th gear that does it the most. slow easy shifts are fine. seems like its worse when the trans hasnt warmed up. is it worth rebuilding now or should i wait. im sure it could last alot longer without a rebuild but if i want any kind of performance out of my transmission this seems like my only route.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

also any kind of hard throttle shift or high rpm shift it wont let me into gear till after about 3-4 seconds. The more I put it down the harder it is to get into gear. Sometimes instead of not going into gear it will just grind. I dont think the problem is with the clutch because it wont creep forward with the clutch all the way in.

Before I did the drill mod the previous owner had never changed the clutch fluid and it was pitch black and chunky. This problem was worse before the drill mod and im guessing there was damage already done from the previous owner.

I was always told this transmission was great and amazing but why are the synchros and blocker rings just complete ****?

should i just start saving for a rebuild this is really starting to **** me off.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

To the top

SladeX

You sure you didn't damage the line when doing the drill mod?

Pitch black and chunky indicates seals may have taken a dump ALONG with the fluid boiling.

I wouldn't do any more WOT shifting until you first address the fact you just may be boiling the fluid.

Doesn't drag when in gear, clutch in all the way and rpm to 6k BUT will seem to lock out gears during a WOT run?

Boiling fluid would do that.

Before tearing into transmission internals, insulate the line and make sure at no point it is close to the headers. Bleed well.

Next in difficulty is to change the master (which requires to redo the drill mod).

Then finally slave and may as well do clutch at that point too.

gmmusclecarman

iTrader: (20)

I actually didnt do the drill mod myself. I had another guy do it who has done it too many times than he can count. So maybe he screwed something up idk.

What exactly can i insulate the line with?

Is there any way exactly to test this? could i try a WOT shift before the car warms up and before the fluid gets hot?