Clutch engagement problem???
Clutch engagement problem??? Intro: Ok I had the trans. built over the winter and also bought an LS7/LS2 Clutch/Flywheel setup and all new GM hydraulics. I also did the install my self and it was fairly easy. The clutch engaged right off the floor to begin with and then came back up around 250-300 miles.
Problem: I've noticed that when it's cold out the clutch engages right off the floor and is hard to get the car in gear but after driving for a while and the car gets warm the engagement point come back up but the pedal still feels weird. Also the clutch never seems to engage in the same place from one day to the next.
What I've tried to do: I bled the clutch today and found that there was alot of air in the system. I used the 2 man method of bleeding it. The guy in the car would pump the pedal about 4-8 times then hold it to the floor and I would crack the bleeder to let air/fluid out then close it while he still had the the pedal all the way down so we didn't let any air into the system. The pedal would stay on the floor and when we pumped it to try to get it to come back up it wouldn't do it on it's own. We would have to pump the pedal and lightly assist the pedal to return to the top. After pumping for awhile the pedal would feel good and we would repeat the bleeding and more air/fluid would come out when I cracked the bleeder.
My questions: Am I bleeding the car correctly? Should I be helping the pedal rise after it's gone to the floor? Do I have a bad slave or is there just massive amounts of air in the system?
Problem: I've noticed that when it's cold out the clutch engages right off the floor and is hard to get the car in gear but after driving for a while and the car gets warm the engagement point come back up but the pedal still feels weird. Also the clutch never seems to engage in the same place from one day to the next.
What I've tried to do: I bled the clutch today and found that there was alot of air in the system. I used the 2 man method of bleeding it. The guy in the car would pump the pedal about 4-8 times then hold it to the floor and I would crack the bleeder to let air/fluid out then close it while he still had the the pedal all the way down so we didn't let any air into the system. The pedal would stay on the floor and when we pumped it to try to get it to come back up it wouldn't do it on it's own. We would have to pump the pedal and lightly assist the pedal to return to the top. After pumping for awhile the pedal would feel good and we would repeat the bleeding and more air/fluid would come out when I cracked the bleeder.
My questions: Am I bleeding the car correctly? Should I be helping the pedal rise after it's gone to the floor? Do I have a bad slave or is there just massive amounts of air in the system?
This is from Jarrod at textralia...
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
This is from Jarrod at textralia...
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
I have also found that closing the bleeder before the stream stops helpful in problematic systems that are hard to bleed.
Thanks guys, so I was bleeding the system wrong.
So what you're saying is.
1. Guy under car cracks bleeder
2. Guy in car depresses pedal and holds it to the floor.
3. Once pedal is firmly on the floor the guy under the car then closes the bleeder.
4. Repeat process.
Do I have this right? "Do Not" pump the pedal before cracking the bleeder.
So what you're saying is.
1. Guy under car cracks bleeder
2. Guy in car depresses pedal and holds it to the floor.
3. Once pedal is firmly on the floor the guy under the car then closes the bleeder.
4. Repeat process.
Do I have this right? "Do Not" pump the pedal before cracking the bleeder.
Ok, I bled the clutch the right way this time and the pedal feels good. The car still rocks forward when I test the clutch though (Car on flat surface in 1st gear, clutch depressed all the way, and rev to about 5000 rpms.) The clutch doesn't feel that it has enough throw. Could I possibly need a shim? I know the majority of LS7 clutches don't need to be shimmed but there are a few that have. Also when I originally talked to Amber from Six Speed Inc. after the install she told me that it might need to be shimmed.
