clutch problems!!
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2008
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clutch problems!! sometimes when i drive my car my clutch feels mushy and feels like the pedal has a slow return. and sometimes when i drive my car it feels like normal. what does that mean? does that still mean i need a new clutch if my clutch feels mushy only sometimes?
The following is assuming the mods in your sig are correct and you're basically making stockish power.
Try a full bleed of the hydraulics. If that doesn't fix it, you can try the drill mod. But if there are a lot of miles on the car or master, you might want to just replace it altogether. If the drill mod on the stock master doesn't fix it, you'll definitely want to replace the master. If that doesn't fix it, you'll be pulling the trans to replace the slave or possibly the entire clutch itself. How many miles on the car? If there are a lot on the clutch/hydraulics, you might want to just replace the whole thing if you go through the trouble to pull the trans or pay to have it pulled since you need to pull the transmission to get to the slave.
Those are the steps to diagnose the sticky clutch pedal starting with the easiest/cheapest and going up to the hardest/most expensive.
When you try the bleed, take your time and make sure that by the time you're done, all of the fluid in the system is new fluid. You should have totally clear fluid coming out of the bleeder by the end.
This sticky will go into more details about each of these steps: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html
Try a full bleed of the hydraulics. If that doesn't fix it, you can try the drill mod. But if there are a lot of miles on the car or master, you might want to just replace it altogether. If the drill mod on the stock master doesn't fix it, you'll definitely want to replace the master. If that doesn't fix it, you'll be pulling the trans to replace the slave or possibly the entire clutch itself. How many miles on the car? If there are a lot on the clutch/hydraulics, you might want to just replace the whole thing if you go through the trouble to pull the trans or pay to have it pulled since you need to pull the transmission to get to the slave.
Those are the steps to diagnose the sticky clutch pedal starting with the easiest/cheapest and going up to the hardest/most expensive.
When you try the bleed, take your time and make sure that by the time you're done, all of the fluid in the system is new fluid. You should have totally clear fluid coming out of the bleeder by the end.
This sticky will go into more details about each of these steps: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html
Last edited by PewterScreaminMach; Feb 27, 2009 at 12:10 PM.
From a PM but more info for anyone reading this (something a lot of people don't think about when trying to take care of the sticky clutch pedal issue):
With those miles on the car, if you're going to pull the trans, you might as well do the clutch/flywheel/pilot bearing and all of the hydraulics (new slave and master). Some people have claimed the drill mod helped them or just a new master, but I personally would replace everything if I was in your situation. The more you drive the car with the pedal sticking, the more stress you're putting on the transmission's internals because chances are the clutch isn't fully disengaging on your shifts. I'd rather replace a 60k mile clutch/hydraulics now than risk grenading the T56, which is not easy or cheap to fix/replace.
And yes, replacing the whole setup - clutch, slave, and master - will fix your problem assuming it is installed and bled correctly.
Originally Posted by 00TAM6
thanks for the response.. i got a little of 60k on my car.. the problem comes and goes. but lately its been coming back often. do you recomend i just replace my clutch and slave anyway? do you think that will make it go away or stop it from coming back?
And yes, replacing the whole setup - clutch, slave, and master - will fix your problem assuming it is installed and bled correctly.
I have this same problem... except mine only happens when I try to shift at high RPM's aka when racing. This is a very common problem. I bled the system and changed the clutch fluid to no avail. I just found out there is a group deal on a revolutionary new master cylinder made by Tick Peformance. The special ends today and is $299 (regular price $339), plus you get a free remote speed bleeder. You can see the link in the manual trans section, its on the first page. You can always just do the drill mod to the stock master cylinder for much less money... but I read so many people be happy with the Tick master cylinder, that I decided to go with this. What you do is up to your budget... but from what I read the Tick master will solve this problem. If you wanna change the slave and/or clutch your talking a lot more money, esp if you do not do the work yourself.
I have this same problem... except mine only happens when I try to shift at high RPM's aka when racing. This is a very common problem. I bled the system and changed the clutch fluid to no avail. I just found out there is a group deal on a revolutionary new master cylinder made by Tick Peformance. The special ends today and is $299 (regular price $339), plus you get a free remote speed bleeder. You can see the link in the manual trans section, its on the first page. You can always just do the drill mod to the stock master cylinder for much less money... but I read so many people be happy with the Tick master cylinder, that I decided to go with this. What you do is up to your budget... but from what I read the Tick master will solve this problem. If you wanna change the slave and/or clutch your talking a lot more money, esp if you do not do the work yourself.
