MAF sensor question
03-23-2010, 03:53 PM
#21
TECH Regular
Your have to drive it in the same conditions and see if there is any change. Just unplug it, let it warm up a bit and take it for a drive for a bit and see if your problem persists. Run it through where you normally have problems and see if there is any change at all. Don't go romping on it, but your not going to hurt anything.
You can have a bad MAF and not throw codes. If it is reading within a specified range the PCM thinks it's fine, however, it may NOT be reading the correct frequency then what it should be reading.
Hesitation is most commonly caused by either an overly rich condition or overly lean. Both can be caused by the MAF or O2 sensors not switching or heating up properly. Now I have seen plenty of MAF's go out and never throw a code at all, but you rarely see an O2 go out without throwing some kind of code for the heater or insufficient switching codes. I just replaced my O2's and the SES light had been on for quite some time (I have HP Tuners so I just turned the light off).
Sometimes cleaning the MAF works and sometimes it doesn't and needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't just throw money at it, especially when running your car without it is free and reversable. I suspect it because your not seeing the issue throughout the RPM band just in one certain area, and there are times in your cars PCM tables the MAF is used and others where it is not.
03-24-2010, 11:40 AM
#23
Maybe The man above me speaks the truth.
Your have to drive it in the same conditions and see if there is any change. Just unplug it, let it warm up a bit and take it for a drive for a bit and see if your problem persists. Run it through where you normally have problems and see if there is any change at all. Don't go romping on it, but your not going to hurt anything.
You can have a bad MAF and not throw codes. If it is reading within a specified range the PCM thinks it's fine, however, it may NOT be reading the correct frequency then what it should be reading.
Hesitation is most commonly caused by either an overly rich condition or overly lean. Both can be caused by the MAF or O2 sensors not switching or heating up properly. Now I have seen plenty of MAF's go out and never throw a code at all, but you rarely see an O2 go out without throwing some kind of code for the heater or insufficient switching codes. I just replaced my O2's and the SES light had been on for quite some time (I have HP Tuners so I just turned the light off).
Sometimes cleaning the MAF works and sometimes it doesn't and needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't just throw money at it, especially when running your car without it is free and reversable. I suspect it because your not seeing the issue throughout the RPM band just in one certain area, and there are times in your cars PCM tables the MAF is used and others where it is not.
Your have to drive it in the same conditions and see if there is any change. Just unplug it, let it warm up a bit and take it for a drive for a bit and see if your problem persists. Run it through where you normally have problems and see if there is any change at all. Don't go romping on it, but your not going to hurt anything.
You can have a bad MAF and not throw codes. If it is reading within a specified range the PCM thinks it's fine, however, it may NOT be reading the correct frequency then what it should be reading.
Hesitation is most commonly caused by either an overly rich condition or overly lean. Both can be caused by the MAF or O2 sensors not switching or heating up properly. Now I have seen plenty of MAF's go out and never throw a code at all, but you rarely see an O2 go out without throwing some kind of code for the heater or insufficient switching codes. I just replaced my O2's and the SES light had been on for quite some time (I have HP Tuners so I just turned the light off).
Sometimes cleaning the MAF works and sometimes it doesn't and needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't just throw money at it, especially when running your car without it is free and reversable. I suspect it because your not seeing the issue throughout the RPM band just in one certain area, and there are times in your cars PCM tables the MAF is used and others where it is not.
Anyone suggest a remanufactured one? It has a one year warranty.
03-25-2010, 05:03 PM
#27
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...actually, if it had a K&N filter in front of it, and the filter was over oiled, it can contaminate the MAF sensors. Done it myself before.
I have an SLP 85mm MAF, and I'd recommend another brand. I replaced my last one after suspecting it of blowing my ODB2 fuse, and it hasn't happened again since. And it does say on the SLP site that it's for use with stock PCM tuning.
I have an SLP 85mm MAF, and I'd recommend another brand. I replaced my last one after suspecting it of blowing my ODB2 fuse, and it hasn't happened again since. And it does say on the SLP site that it's for use with stock PCM tuning.
04-02-2010, 11:55 PM
#31
I'm a believer!!! So, I bought a used MAF sensor off of a member on here and installed it. I feel like I gained 2 extra cylinders on my car! Seriously, I bet I gained 20-30 hp. Thanks to everyone for their help! Problem solved! I'm asking you guys before I take it to a mechanic from now on. Would've saved me a couple hundred bucks.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
08-21-2010, 07:20 PM
#32
I had the same problem you were experiencing. Went out and pulled the wire to the MAF and presto. My car is running stronger than ever.
The owner before me installed a K&N filter and must have over oiled it. If there isn't a problem with running without the MAF I'll keep it how it is.
The owner before me installed a K&N filter and must have over oiled it. If there isn't a problem with running without the MAF I'll keep it how it is.
05-15-2012, 10:03 PM
#33
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Good post. I am getting ready to try a used one I bought from a member as I am experiencing the same exact issues.
I've read hundreds of posts and this one is exactly my problem, man I hope this solves my issues too cause I am tired of trouble shooting. Dang K&N air filters I recently took mine out and replaced it with a paper one, I plan to leave it out too from what I am reading just doesn't seem to be a good fit for these ls1 f-bodys.
I've read hundreds of posts and this one is exactly my problem, man I hope this solves my issues too cause I am tired of trouble shooting. Dang K&N air filters I recently took mine out and replaced it with a paper one, I plan to leave it out too from what I am reading just doesn't seem to be a good fit for these ls1 f-bodys.
05-21-2012, 09:01 PM
#34
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man ive been dealing with the exact same thing and i have done the same stuff you went through. i really hope this is the same problem for me because ive come down to almost trading my car in for this reason. hopefully this helps.
06-05-2012, 04:59 PM
#36
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K&N, SLP Blackwing, those aftermarket filters are fine...the thing is, too many people think that after 2 oil changes they have to clean the filter, and oil it up n all. you can leave them things in for like 50k miles without touchin them. if your afraid of over oiling, jus get a new one! Depending on where ur driving, paper wear out fast. Jus give aftermarket a lil blow out wit the compressor once in awhile.
06-26-2012, 03:58 PM
#37
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New MAF installed and the TA runs like a beast, I forgot how much power I had been missing out on driving around with a bum MAF. Bought a used one from another member and it brought my car back to life!!
01-03-2013, 10:21 AM
#39
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If the computer sees certain signals, yes. But it is possible for it to be a little off with no SES light. Also, an important part of this eguation is the AIT sensor. If it is off you can get false heat soak.
