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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LSWONCOOP
So, I did it. I unplugged it, and it idled fine for like 5 minutes. I revved it up a couple times and there was no change. It ran like it always does. I didn't drive it though. Does that mean my MAF is bad?
The man above me speaks the truth.

Your have to drive it in the same conditions and see if there is any change. Just unplug it, let it warm up a bit and take it for a drive for a bit and see if your problem persists. Run it through where you normally have problems and see if there is any change at all. Don't go romping on it, but your not going to hurt anything.

You can have a bad MAF and not throw codes. If it is reading within a specified range the PCM thinks it's fine, however, it may NOT be reading the correct frequency then what it should be reading.

Hesitation is most commonly caused by either an overly rich condition or overly lean. Both can be caused by the MAF or O2 sensors not switching or heating up properly. Now I have seen plenty of MAF's go out and never throw a code at all, but you rarely see an O2 go out without throwing some kind of code for the heater or insufficient switching codes. I just replaced my O2's and the SES light had been on for quite some time (I have HP Tuners so I just turned the light off).

Sometimes cleaning the MAF works and sometimes it doesn't and needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't just throw money at it, especially when running your car without it is free and reversable. I suspect it because your not seeing the issue throughout the RPM band just in one certain area, and there are times in your cars PCM tables the MAF is used and others where it is not.
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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Sweet, I'll check it out tomorrow. Just got thru a 14 hr workday. Too tired to go out and do it now.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 11:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 1987firechicken
The man above me speaks the truth.

Your have to drive it in the same conditions and see if there is any change. Just unplug it, let it warm up a bit and take it for a drive for a bit and see if your problem persists. Run it through where you normally have problems and see if there is any change at all. Don't go romping on it, but your not going to hurt anything.

You can have a bad MAF and not throw codes. If it is reading within a specified range the PCM thinks it's fine, however, it may NOT be reading the correct frequency then what it should be reading.

Hesitation is most commonly caused by either an overly rich condition or overly lean. Both can be caused by the MAF or O2 sensors not switching or heating up properly. Now I have seen plenty of MAF's go out and never throw a code at all, but you rarely see an O2 go out without throwing some kind of code for the heater or insufficient switching codes. I just replaced my O2's and the SES light had been on for quite some time (I have HP Tuners so I just turned the light off).

Sometimes cleaning the MAF works and sometimes it doesn't and needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't just throw money at it, especially when running your car without it is free and reversable. I suspect it because your not seeing the issue throughout the RPM band just in one certain area, and there are times in your cars PCM tables the MAF is used and others where it is not.
OK, I unplugged the MAF sensor, let it warm up, and took it for a drive this morning. I made one stop because I had to run an errand nearby. When I came back out and started the car the SES light came on. Not to worried about that though. I'm sure it will go back off. So, I ran it through that spot in RPM band and at the proper throttle about 6 times. No hesitation. Then, I pulled over and plugged it back in. It was hesitating at first in the spot but now it's not. I almost bought a remanfactured MAF sensor at O'Reilly's for $140 but I talked myself out of it. I really want to replace it but not with a used one. If this is the problem I wanna solve it for good.

Anyone suggest a remanufactured one? It has a one year warranty.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #24  
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Hello?
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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If you think it ran better with the MAF unpluged, (your post sounds like it does) then try a new one. The ses light probably came on for low voltage to the MAF, reset the computer when you install the new MAF.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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Clean maf sensor (maybe work) or get a new one. Thats about your only options.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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...actually, if it had a K&N filter in front of it, and the filter was over oiled, it can contaminate the MAF sensors. Done it myself before.

I have an SLP 85mm MAF, and I'd recommend another brand. I replaced my last one after suspecting it of blowing my ODB2 fuse, and it hasn't happened again since. And it does say on the SLP site that it's for use with stock PCM tuning.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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he already cleaned the maf. well gm doesn't produce them anymore, so aftermarket or re-manufactured are about your only options.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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OK, I might just bite the bullet and buy a reman. Hopefully I'll have time to do it this wknd.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Anybody using the Granatelli???
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 11:55 PM
  #31  
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Default I'm a believer!!!

So, I bought a used MAF sensor off of a member on here and installed it. I feel like I gained 2 extra cylinders on my car! Seriously, I bet I gained 20-30 hp. Thanks to everyone for their help! Problem solved! I'm asking you guys before I take it to a mechanic from now on. Would've saved me a couple hundred bucks.

Thanks again!
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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I had the same problem you were experiencing. Went out and pulled the wire to the MAF and presto. My car is running stronger than ever.

The owner before me installed a K&N filter and must have over oiled it. If there isn't a problem with running without the MAF I'll keep it how it is.
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Old May 15, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #33  
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Good post. I am getting ready to try a used one I bought from a member as I am experiencing the same exact issues.

I've read hundreds of posts and this one is exactly my problem, man I hope this solves my issues too cause I am tired of trouble shooting. Dang K&N air filters I recently took mine out and replaced it with a paper one, I plan to leave it out too from what I am reading just doesn't seem to be a good fit for these ls1 f-bodys.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 09:01 PM
  #34  
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man ive been dealing with the exact same thing and i have done the same stuff you went through. i really hope this is the same problem for me because ive come down to almost trading my car in for this reason. hopefully this helps.
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 04:50 PM
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Check out the injectors...you using 93 octane?...I hope...
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #36  
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K&N, SLP Blackwing, those aftermarket filters are fine...the thing is, too many people think that after 2 oil changes they have to clean the filter, and oil it up n all. you can leave them things in for like 50k miles without touchin them. if your afraid of over oiling, jus get a new one! Depending on where ur driving, paper wear out fast. Jus give aftermarket a lil blow out wit the compressor once in awhile.
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #37  
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New MAF installed and the TA runs like a beast, I forgot how much power I had been missing out on driving around with a bum MAF. Bought a used one from another member and it brought my car back to life!!
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 07:20 AM
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if the maf is bad, will the check engine light come on, or show a code.
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Wrench7777
if the maf is bad, will the check engine light come on, or show a code.
If the computer sees certain signals, yes. But it is possible for it to be a little off with no SES light. Also, an important part of this eguation is the AIT sensor. If it is off you can get false heat soak.
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Old May 2, 2015 | 10:08 PM
  #40  
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Well if I get one from like O'Reillys Or Advanced auto parts will I have to tune the car
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