I'm considering what the best route to go with the LS1 is. I'm looking for really big street legal power.

So, I have two options...FI or NA.

Does anyone know advantages of either route? Regarding cost/output/reliability/possible power?

I see there is a big single turbo kit for this that is around $7000...that nets around 600rwhp I think. What kind of NA options do I have for that price?

Thanks for the info...just trying to build a budget for the car.

 

Define street legal. Do you just want it to pass emissions? If so, does your area use the OBDII plug in diagnostic or the old fashion way of sniffer and visual tests? The plug in test is awsome..........I just passed with long tubes, no cats, true duals.......anyone can pass with anything so long as the CPU is treated right

 

Truthfully I have no idea what they do here. I'm in NC, so whatever that is.

I was referring to street legal as far as being able to pass emissions and not getting a noise violation when running at WOT.

 

Just a few points. 1st, I lived in NC for about 4 years w/ the military, and they don't smog your car, only inspect. The inspection only checks to make sure that smog equipment is indeed connected. Most of the guys down there don't bother putting it up on a stand to check the cats. You can pretty much get away w/ murder out there as long as your dang windshield wippers and headlights still work. And as far as sound goes at WOT.... Well, does it really matter?? If there's a cop around, you're not going WOT even if you were stock. LOL FI is a good way to go if you want an O.E. feel about the car when you're putting around town. STS makes a remote mounted turbo kit for the car that's only $3k (ststurbo.com). May want to spend some time in the FI rooms, and internal engine rooms to get some realy expert advice. These guys know their stuff.
Cheers, and good luck.

 

nitrous or a blower...nitrous cuz you dont run it all the time or blower because most are 50 state legal so technically it should pass but thats not to say it will without a tune to get the a/f right.

lata
Bill

 

If you want 600rwhp all the time you need FI.

 

Either FI or all bolt ons, a very nice heads/cam setup, and a good stroker kit. You can run 10's all motor, a guy in my club is doing just that. On slicks of course, but still

Whatever you do, if you are wanting 600 rwhp, you are going to need to beef up that drivetrain, fuel systems, chasis, suspension, etc. Might want to consider building your foundation first, before you blow it all up

 

Right on.

I realize the stock car isn't going to handle a massive amount of HP, but the rest of the building is pretty straightforward. Just trying to figure out what my options are as far as the power.

How much would it cost to build/install a big motor, if I went all motor? What kind of power could I get out of that?

 

Lunati makes stroker kits that around like 3500 bucks or so. I beleive it pretty much replaces all the internals of the engine, making it strong enough to withstand some serious power

And to be honest, I would rather be N/A (with nitrous maybe) than forced induction. It seems that FI cars with big power don't really run as fast as they should in the 1/4. One of my buddies has a 383 on his '99 SS. He's just barley putting down 450 RWHP and torque, yet he's running 10s. Doesn't take TOO much power to go fast as hell

 

Well, personally I would rather go all motor as well. I've heard bad stories about reliability when it comes to FI.

But just depends on the price and performance. Thanks for the help so far!

 

For $6,000 + exchange at MTI, for example, you can get a 383 stroker with nice heads and cam that is suppose to make at least 475-525 horsepower at the crank.....more if you upgrade to LS6 heads at the time......as others have said (though I don't know much) I would rather have a NA engine possibly with N2O as well then FI.