how do you like that setup , i have a 3.5 over the axle with a bullet and want to quiet it down and use a chamber muffler in 3" and dump it like you did . Think it would quiet it down any 3.5 bullet to 3? classic chambered muffler.

 

It's loud as hell, and I would never want to drive something like a bullet dumped on the street. I was going for the lightest/best flowing for drag only application.
I would keep the over axle and add another bullet somewhere.

 

That's odd, I have SE headers and Y pipe. Y pipe went in fine, the only thing I had to do was drop the muffler from the hangers so I could slide it back and line up the Y pipe to the I pipe.

 

Here's what's important to me in an exhaust:

-fitment/ease of install
-good ground clearance
-quietness/sound
-looks

I see too many people running 4" exhausts all the way back or fitment issues because they didn't like the raspy tone of a Y pipe.

Just get electric cutouts just after the headers and you are set. Performance and loud when needed, yet quiet, no rasp when cruising. Win/win.

 

Consider yourself lucky.

 

Is it luck, or is his setup different? Maybe he has an aftermarket K-member or different motor mounts?

Right now I have pacesetter offroad Y and the long tubes that are 1 3/4. I wanted 1 7/8 and stainless and heard that SE fit well, so I purchased their setup. I also want a short tunnel mount torque arm that is red. I currently have the Spohn short tunnel mounted one in black. So while my Spohn short tunnel mount TA and exhaust all fits nicely, I'm worried that this new setup is going to result in clearance issues. There is no point in hooking it all up only to get an aftermarket K-member which could shift the position of the headers, resulting in another trip to the exhaust shop. Because of this, I'll be doing the K-member and poly mounts at the same time. Yes a longer A-arms can be purchased and relocated off the trans to give better exhaust clearance, but I'm not interested in the long arm. I want the short arm for it's advantages at the drag strip.

So in order to get all this **** to work, I'm most likely going to have to order a few different torque arm setups with different tunnel mounts because I want the best ground clearance and then eat the return shipping costs. The MWC double drop mount may clear without any modification, so I'll probably try that one first but it would be ideal if the setup had the best possible ground clearance. A double drop may not be the answer for that.

It would have been nice if SE worked with the folks at BMR, UMI, and MWC to see what their Y-pipe fits and what it doesn't. The routing is completely different than my 1st generation pacesetter Y and I'm sure it's going to be a royal PITA to get it to all fit. As far as having an exhaust shop build me a custom stainless Y with good bends.... that's going to be $500+. No thanks. Now I have stainless cutouts that we will weld into the Speed Engineering Y, so that will give us some extra room to play but I'm not worried about the connection points to the headers and to the I pipe, I'm worried about the aftermarket torque arm tunnel mounted cross member having good clearance with the Y pipe, especially where the merge is. The UMI and MWC possible tunnel mount torque arm combos are:

2203 UMI better chance of fitting, poorer ground clearance
2201 UMI less chance of fitting, better ground clearance
MWC Tunnel Mount Torque Arm with double drop, better chance of fitting, poorer ground clearance
MWC Tunnel Mount Torque Arm with TSP True dual, lesser chance of fitting, better ground clearance
MWC Tunnel Mount Torque Arm with Catback 3.5, lesser chance of fitting, better ground clearance
MWC Tunnel Mount Torque Arm with Turbo Cross member, lesser chance of fitting, better ground clearance

Not sure how the 2201 is suppose to go on. Here we have a pic of it oriented one way, and then a video of it oriented another way. Unless the design changed?

 

Yeah, I couldn't ever understand the Y Pipe thing. They told me they had multiple customers put the LS1 Y with their LT1 headers and it fit "fine". But mine was way off, not even close - I ended up just taking it to a shop to have it fixed. I think they charged me like $75 to make the necessary modifications.

 

On the other hand, their headers were a breeze. I dropped both of them in through the top after removing the valve covers, plugs/wires, steering shaft, alternator, and starter.