Caring for an engine on a stand
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2018
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Caring for an engine on a stand Hopefully this is the right spot for this/not been asked 100 times.
I have a 6.0L with 150k miles I pulled from a 02 Yukon xl
Rotating assembly looks good, I soaked it in oil as well as cylinder walls, as I work on it as time allows.
My question is this, I plan on putting an Fbody pan on, however I'm afraid of sealing it up as the time between finishing it and running could be awhile and I dont want it to lose lubrication.
I have the truck pan on now as a cover to keep junk out.
Should I keep oiling it every so often or just new gasket and close it up with the proper pan and just prime the pump before first start?
My fear is letting it sit and getting a dry initial start.
First engine I am refreshing, I am trying to be cautious
Thank you
I have a 6.0L with 150k miles I pulled from a 02 Yukon xl
Rotating assembly looks good, I soaked it in oil as well as cylinder walls, as I work on it as time allows.
My question is this, I plan on putting an Fbody pan on, however I'm afraid of sealing it up as the time between finishing it and running could be awhile and I dont want it to lose lubrication.
I have the truck pan on now as a cover to keep junk out.
Should I keep oiling it every so often or just new gasket and close it up with the proper pan and just prime the pump before first start?
My fear is letting it sit and getting a dry initial start.
First engine I am refreshing, I am trying to be cautious
Thank you
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 265
From: Bossier City, Louisiana
Remove the fuel rail and injectors and run good pressurized carb cleaner solvent through each injector with a good nine volt battery powering the injector. This will help you avoid stuck injectors when it comes time to start your engine. Several good You Tube videos out there explaining how this works using a compressor, plastic tubing and hose clamps. Use a solvent that is not flammable - green can Brake Clean is good here. Sparks and fine mist fiery solvent is dangerous territory and the nine volt battery helps here.
But yes, its also good to hand rotate those lubed cylinders every now and then. Do this with the plugs removed to avoid a damaging "hydro locked" break a piston situation. IOW, don't use the electric starter.
Rick
But yes, its also good to hand rotate those lubed cylinders every now and then. Do this with the plugs removed to avoid a damaging "hydro locked" break a piston situation. IOW, don't use the electric starter.
Rick
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2018
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Thank you
So the engine crank has now been sprayed with new 5w30 while I wait for the ls fbody oil pan.
when I finally bolt it up and seal the crank, what happens if I dont run it for 5 months and leave it on a stand?
Im worried about internal rusting. Once I put pan/heads on, it's hard to lube every part for an extended sit period, if that ends up happening.
Maybe some white lithium on crank, pistons, cylinder wall?
So the engine crank has now been sprayed with new 5w30 while I wait for the ls fbody oil pan.
when I finally bolt it up and seal the crank, what happens if I dont run it for 5 months and leave it on a stand?
Im worried about internal rusting. Once I put pan/heads on, it's hard to lube every part for an extended sit period, if that ends up happening.
Maybe some white lithium on crank, pistons, cylinder wall?
Last edited by Pestilence; Nov 25, 2018 at 06:03 PM.
I've pulled cars out of yard/fields/barns that sat for 20+ years and they pretty much always fire up after going thru the fuel system.
They don't rust internally if they sat with a hood on them or at least something covering the top of the engine. I live in the Midwest so we get heat and humidity in the summer and extreme cold in the winter. I have 1950 chevy truck that sat for a couple decades and even though I wasn't going to use the engine I wanted to see it would run, All I did was use a gravity feed to the carb for fuel and hooked up the jump pack. The truck fired right up and even idled smooth.
They don't rust internally if they sat with a hood on them or at least something covering the top of the engine. I live in the Midwest so we get heat and humidity in the summer and extreme cold in the winter. I have 1950 chevy truck that sat for a couple decades and even though I wasn't going to use the engine I wanted to see it would run, All I did was use a gravity feed to the carb for fuel and hooked up the jump pack. The truck fired right up and even idled smooth.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
I've pulled cars out of yard/fields/barns that sat for 20+ years and they pretty much always fire up after going thru the fuel system.
They don't rust internally if they sat with a hood on them or at least something covering the top of the engine. I live in the Midwest so we get heat and humidity in the summer and extreme cold in the winter. I have 1950 chevy truck that sat for a couple decades and even though I wasn't going to use the engine I wanted to see it would run, All I did was use a gravity feed to the carb for fuel and hooked up the jump pack. The truck fired right up and even idled smooth.
They don't rust internally if they sat with a hood on them or at least something covering the top of the engine. I live in the Midwest so we get heat and humidity in the summer and extreme cold in the winter. I have 1950 chevy truck that sat for a couple decades and even though I wasn't going to use the engine I wanted to see it would run, All I did was use a gravity feed to the carb for fuel and hooked up the jump pack. The truck fired right up and even idled smooth.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 967
Likes: 53
From: Winter Haven FL
My buddies who keep spare engines all do it the same. Plug up the intake and exhaust with paper or plastic bags and masking tape over the hole. Put a plug or tape over the dipstick tube hole if the tube isn't there. Also plug up any oil cooler line holes. It helps block moisture but is more about blocking small creatures. Once a month pull the spark plugs and spray some wd40 into each spark plug hole. Then throw a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the engine a few revolutions. Then put the spark plugs back in.
