2000 z28 power steering question
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Los Angeles
2000 z28 power steering question I have 2000 z28 w/ 275/40r17 tires (the stock SS Size). I am about to replace my power steering rack and I'm wondering if my oversized tires are too large for the stock system without a power steering cooler?
Will my stock z28 system (without a cooler) be fine with the larger tire size?
If I did want to run a power steering cooler.. could I use this: https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-oil-cooler/compressor-works-power-steering-oil-cooler-911009/577703_524155_0
Will my stock z28 system (without a cooler) be fine with the larger tire size?
If I did want to run a power steering cooler.. could I use this: https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-oil-cooler/compressor-works-power-steering-oil-cooler-911009/577703_524155_0
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,605
Likes: 2,508
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I deleted the stock cooler on my '02 Z28 and also ran the larger SS size on this car as well. Again, after years of daily driving, no issues with system overheating/boil-over, etc.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: Los Angeles
Should be no problem at all, unless you push the system hard (AutoX, RR, etc.) I moved up to the stock SS size (275/40/17) on my '98 Z28 as well, back in 2005. I never added a cooler, and have never had an issue to this day.
I deleted the stock cooler on my '02 Z28 and also ran the larger SS size on this car as well. Again, after years of daily driving, no issues with system overheating/boil-over, etc.
I deleted the stock cooler on my '02 Z28 and also ran the larger SS size on this car as well. Again, after years of daily driving, no issues with system overheating/boil-over, etc.
My other issue is the OEM return hose is part #26068527 (~$90), and I wanted to replace mine while I'm in there swapping the rack. So it got me thinking maybe I should just add an aftermarket power steering cooler for less $?
I don't know anything about heater hose dimensions. Is it outer size or inner measurement? Is there any reason I can't use an AutoZone little kit? It lists it as having 3/8" inlet/outlet size. Is that the stock return line size?
the return line ( metal line and rubber hose ) is NLA from GM.....if the rubber hose has rotted you can replace just it
the pump tends to run hot and heat is the enemy of fluid life and the seals in the pump
highly recommended to run a cooler and use synthetic fluid
it would be better to run a rail cooler than the one you posted....there is a thread covering coolers and where to put them
if your car has the stock cooler ......GET RID OF IT YESTERDAY
the pump tends to run hot and heat is the enemy of fluid life and the seals in the pump
highly recommended to run a cooler and use synthetic fluid
it would be better to run a rail cooler than the one you posted....there is a thread covering coolers and where to put them
if your car has the stock cooler ......GET RID OF IT YESTERDAY
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
the return line ( metal line and rubber hose ) is NLA from GM.....if the rubber hose has rotted you can replace just it
the pump tends to run hot and heat is the enemy of fluid life and the seals in the pump
highly recommended to run a cooler and use synthetic fluid
it would be better to run a rail cooler than the one you posted....there is a thread covering coolers and where to put them
if your car has the stock cooler ......GET RID OF IT YESTERDAY
the pump tends to run hot and heat is the enemy of fluid life and the seals in the pump
highly recommended to run a cooler and use synthetic fluid
it would be better to run a rail cooler than the one you posted....there is a thread covering coolers and where to put them
if your car has the stock cooler ......GET RID OF IT YESTERDAY
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,605
Likes: 2,508
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Rack and pump are 100% assembly line original on my '98, and both were also original on my '02 at the time I sold it a few years ago. The '02 did come stock with a PS cooler (as did all 2002 V8 models, it became standard that year), but I deleted it several years before selling the car (all while using the 275/40/17 tire size).
I actually took some pretty extensive temp measurements with the cooler deleted back in 2012 or 2013 I think it was? It's all contained somewhere in the massive PS cooler sticky thread in the General Maintenance and Repairs section. Turns out, the factory PS cooler can actually act as a warmer under certain conditions (specifically with the factory cooling fan settings still in place). So, just deleting it altogether can actually lower your temps in certain situations. But, as mentioned above, deleting it is something everyone should do regardless of whether you run an aftermarket cooler or not - simply because of the high failure rate of the stock piece (not to mention the fact it does so little in the first place).
Based on my experience and testing, I don't necessarily agree with the idea that an aftermarket cooler is needed for most applications. Sure, if your climate is very hot (desert southwest, etc.) and/or you use the car in types of competition which greatly increase fluid temps then an aftermarket cooler is a great idea. Otherwise, it's really not needed in my experience. Having said that, I'm also one who keeps up with fluid changes for the PS system, and having fresh fluid in the system is usually the key to winning the battle of any boil-over issues. You can use a cooler as a crutch to extend old fluid life, but the typical fluid temps you'll see in normal driving conditions in an average climate (ambient temps at or below ~90°F) won't be overly harmful to the pump as long as you exercise some level of regular fluid maintenance (some folks never change this fluid, so even doing it every year or two is a huge improvement).
The return line is in fact 3/8" from what I recall, and it's low pressure so you don't actually need any special high pressure crimp fittings.
I actually took some pretty extensive temp measurements with the cooler deleted back in 2012 or 2013 I think it was? It's all contained somewhere in the massive PS cooler sticky thread in the General Maintenance and Repairs section. Turns out, the factory PS cooler can actually act as a warmer under certain conditions (specifically with the factory cooling fan settings still in place). So, just deleting it altogether can actually lower your temps in certain situations. But, as mentioned above, deleting it is something everyone should do regardless of whether you run an aftermarket cooler or not - simply because of the high failure rate of the stock piece (not to mention the fact it does so little in the first place).
Based on my experience and testing, I don't necessarily agree with the idea that an aftermarket cooler is needed for most applications. Sure, if your climate is very hot (desert southwest, etc.) and/or you use the car in types of competition which greatly increase fluid temps then an aftermarket cooler is a great idea. Otherwise, it's really not needed in my experience. Having said that, I'm also one who keeps up with fluid changes for the PS system, and having fresh fluid in the system is usually the key to winning the battle of any boil-over issues. You can use a cooler as a crutch to extend old fluid life, but the typical fluid temps you'll see in normal driving conditions in an average climate (ambient temps at or below ~90°F) won't be overly harmful to the pump as long as you exercise some level of regular fluid maintenance (some folks never change this fluid, so even doing it every year or two is a huge improvement).
The return line is in fact 3/8" from what I recall, and it's low pressure so you don't actually need any special high pressure crimp fittings.