My first LS?
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,855
Likes: 1,110
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Doesn't matter how old they are, 95% of what you read is still valid. I have threads I started on here 16-17 years ago and the info still holds up. Most of what you see different these days is there's new parts out there that weren't available before. You've asked about a bunch of parts that have had numerous threads devoted to them and you're rarely going to find differing answers. For example, single versus double roller timing chains. Many years ago, people still installed double rollers because that was the upgrade on old school small block Chevy engines. Well, over time we figured out that they're absolutely not needed on an LS. Single roller all the way. Same with oil pumps. 99% of the time, you'll get just 2 different suggestions. Melling 10295 for stock bearing clearances, Melling 10296 for larger bearing clearances than stock. From a 350 RWHP SBE 4.8 build to an SBE twin turbo 6.0 making 900 RWHP, it's a Melling 10295. Do a fully built shortblock like I have in my Firebird, with way more bearing clearance than stock, run a Melling 10296. What everyone is trying to say is, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of threads devoted to those specific components. Also, using Google to search makes it way easier than the search feature on here. Type in what you're looking for, and after you type it in, type *LS1Tech.com* with the asterisks, and it will bring up anything related to your search on the site. You can also narrow it down to more recent threads with the Google toolbar.
Exactly, tons of info out there from 20 years ago that is solid. Melling 10295 and the LS2 Billet Timing Chain are the simple go-to for a solid setup. I learned that one 2007 or so by reading what people were building. Guys made threads out there saying what they used and that was the common stuff that worked on a budget. Don't need some extravagant stuff here, stock Timing Gears and the LS2 Chain works. Have a Block with the threaded holes for the Dampener it's not a bad idea to put it in.
So are the Engines, as I said in my post above..
The LS1 itself came out in 1997, that's 28 years ago now if the 1997 Model cars came out in late 1996. Yup, there's your "years old". Doesn't mean the parts changed on them all the sudden as they got older, as mentioned just more aftermarket. Which is great, when some of us started into this there were all kinds of stuff built in the shop to make it happen in the cars. Now with the aftermarket the cars might as well build themselves. That why some of us are like bruh
when we see these "build my car for me" question after question threads. Read a bunch, see what the common parts are everyone is using, go from there.
As far as that Computer, I absolutely would not trust some $55 "Tuned" PCM deal, but that's just me. What they have typed in there is the basics of what you need to get a swap running, but question becomes if they will have it setup correctly for your build, as in the proper Engine size which they probably might. Still will need to have proper fuel maps and all that if you go with Headers, etc. Once a swap goes into a car it's best to have it tuned by someone local to dial it in to your local weather. Mail order tunes are not the way to go, they will work to get a car going as in turning off the VATS and a basic setup, but that's about it.
The LS1 itself came out in 1997, that's 28 years ago now if the 1997 Model cars came out in late 1996. Yup, there's your "years old". Doesn't mean the parts changed on them all the sudden as they got older, as mentioned just more aftermarket. Which is great, when some of us started into this there were all kinds of stuff built in the shop to make it happen in the cars. Now with the aftermarket the cars might as well build themselves. That why some of us are like bruh
when we see these "build my car for me" question after question threads. Read a bunch, see what the common parts are everyone is using, go from there.As far as that Computer, I absolutely would not trust some $55 "Tuned" PCM deal, but that's just me. What they have typed in there is the basics of what you need to get a swap running, but question becomes if they will have it setup correctly for your build, as in the proper Engine size which they probably might. Still will need to have proper fuel maps and all that if you go with Headers, etc. Once a swap goes into a car it's best to have it tuned by someone local to dial it in to your local weather. Mail order tunes are not the way to go, they will work to get a car going as in turning off the VATS and a basic setup, but that's about it.
Last edited by the_merv; Dec 1, 2024 at 08:40 AM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 58
Likes: 5
Doesn't matter how old they are, 95% of what you read is still valid. I have threads I started on here 16-17 years ago and the info still holds up. Most of what you see different these days is there's new parts out there that weren't available before. You've asked about a bunch of parts that have had numerous threads devoted to them and you're rarely going to find differing answers. For example, single versus double roller timing chains. Many years ago, people still installed double rollers because that was the upgrade on old school small block Chevy engines. Well, over time we figured out that they're absolutely not needed on an LS. Single roller all the way. Same with oil pumps. 99% of the time, you'll get just 2 different suggestions. Melling 10295 for stock bearing clearances, Melling 10296 for larger bearing clearances than stock. From a 350 RWHP SBE 4.8 build to an SBE twin turbo 6.0 making 900 RWHP, it's a Melling 10295. Do a fully built shortblock like I have in my Firebird, with way more bearing clearance than stock, run a Melling 10296. What everyone is trying to say is, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of threads devoted to those specific components. Also, using Google to search makes it way easier than the search feature on here. Type in what you're looking for, and after you type it in, type *LS1Tech.com* with the asterisks, and it will bring up anything related to your search on the site. You can also narrow it down to more recent threads with the Google toolbar.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 58
Likes: 5
Exactly, tons of info out there from 20 years ago that is solid. Melling 10295 and the LS2 Billet Timing Chain are the simple go-to for a solid setup. I learned that one 2007 or so by reading what people were building. Guys made threads out there saying what they used and that was the common stuff that worked on a budget. Don't need some extravagant stuff here, stock Timing Gears and the LS2 Chain works. Have a Block with the threaded holes for the Dampener it's not a bad idea to put it in.
So are the Engines, as I said in my post above..
The LS1 itself came out in 1997, that's 28 years ago now if the 1997 Model cars came out in late 1996. Yup, there's your "years old". Doesn't mean the parts changed on them all the sudden as they got older, as mentioned just more aftermarket. Which is great, when some of us started into this there were all kinds of stuff built in the shop to make it happen in the cars. Now with the aftermarket the cars might as well build themselves. That why some of us are like bruh when we see these "build my car for me" question after question threads. Read a bunch, see what the common parts are everyone is using, go from there.
As far as that Computer, I absolutely would not trust some $55 "Tuned" PCM deal, but that's just me. What they have typed in there is the basics of what you need to get a swap running, but question becomes if they will have it setup correctly for your build, as in the proper Engine size which they probably might. Still will need to have proper fuel maps and all that if you go with Headers, etc. Once a swap goes into a car it's best to have it tuned by someone local to dial it in to your local weather. Mail order tunes are not the way to go, they will work to get a car going as in turning off the VATS and a basic setup, but that's about it.
So are the Engines, as I said in my post above..
The LS1 itself came out in 1997, that's 28 years ago now if the 1997 Model cars came out in late 1996. Yup, there's your "years old". Doesn't mean the parts changed on them all the sudden as they got older, as mentioned just more aftermarket. Which is great, when some of us started into this there were all kinds of stuff built in the shop to make it happen in the cars. Now with the aftermarket the cars might as well build themselves. That why some of us are like bruh
when we see these "build my car for me" question after question threads. Read a bunch, see what the common parts are everyone is using, go from there.As far as that Computer, I absolutely would not trust some $55 "Tuned" PCM deal, but that's just me. What they have typed in there is the basics of what you need to get a swap running, but question becomes if they will have it setup correctly for your build, as in the proper Engine size which they probably might. Still will need to have proper fuel maps and all that if you go with Headers, etc. Once a swap goes into a car it's best to have it tuned by someone local to dial it in to your local weather. Mail order tunes are not the way to go, they will work to get a car going as in turning off the VATS and a basic setup, but that's about it.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 619
Likes: 309
From: Haslet, TX
The only thing that I have run into is that the older threads you lose the pictures you are looking for. Other than that most of an issues or real world testing on stuff is spot on. You have to also consider there is the newer BTR stuff, but for the most part it will at least point you in the right direction.