Next mod to do?
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From: Charleston, SC
Next mod to do? Im looking to spend about $2000 on my car this winter. I already have all of the mods done that are in my sig. I was wondering what to do next. Im going to do a tune for sure, but after that Im stumped. I just wanted some opinions on what to do next. Suspension? 12 bolt? Nitrous? Driveshaft? etc...I didnt want to do any kind of forced induction. Too pricey for right now. Would heads really show that much of an improvement? Is it worth the cost? Any ideas would be really helpful. This is my daily driver too, so keep that in mind. Thanks!
just for you, Chris
just for you, Chris 
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by Nittany_marine
Im looking to spend about $2000 on my car this winter. I already have all of the mods done that are in my sig. I was wondering what to do next. Im going to do a tune for sure, but after that Im stumped. I just wanted some opinions on what to do next. Suspension? 12 bolt? Nitrous? Driveshaft? etc...I didnt want to do any kind of forced induction. Too pricey for right now. Would heads really show that much of an improvement? Is it worth the cost? Any ideas would be really helpful. This is my daily driver too, so keep that in mind. Thanks!
just for you, Chris
just for you, ChrisI would invest in some quality suspension components to put the nice power you allready posess to good use.
LCA's, Adjustable TQ arm, and Subframe Connectors, will take you a long way toward straight line traction (and better handling too boot). Just be sure to get the poly/poly , or poly/rod versions if you drive your car every day and do not want it to ride like a boxcar (lol) If you like the twisties, then you could go even further with some swaybars, and a panhard bar, and some stiffer springs but keep in mind you will sacrifice your straight line performance quite a bit.
Even after you max your suspension, you should have enough for a nice wet kit, and possibly some Drag radials (if you dont already have a set) if you do then you could use the left overs to complete your bolt on's such as a ported TB, and a underdrive pulley (not listed in your sig i think)
THEN, start saving up for your 12 bolt, because with traction, 4.10's and nitrous..you may need it
But as long as you are carefull a 10 bolt can last a while without running slicks from what ive seen.Take care, and good luck with you set up.
Edit: Saw that he has LCA's, and SFC's, but my point is the same.
TQ arm, LCA relocators (b/c of his lowering springs), DR's, nitrous, pulley, TB..should be close to his price range.
Last edited by Revelation222; Jan 7, 2005 at 12:42 AM.
How about you dump those Flowtech headers for some Hookers or Jet Hots. I chose those so you could have some money left to do more things
. After those go with some LCAs and a torque arm. That should do it.
. After those go with some LCAs and a torque arm. That should do it. It doesn't matter how much HP you're pushing. You can break these rears with stock HP. Build a good foundation and go from there. A strong rear is the best starting point with these cars.
Originally Posted by Revelation222
IMO, you dont have enough HP to worry about a 12bolt or a DS just yet. Maybe if you run slicks and the track on a regular basis, but otherwise its not what I would go for at the moment. Even if you had a 12 bolt you wouldnt benefit very much because you wouldnt hook on the high RPM launches anyway (a big plus from having a rear end that you can abuse).
I would invest in some quality suspension components to put the nice power you allready posess to good use.
LCA's, Adjustable TQ arm, and Subframe Connectors, will take you a long way toward straight line traction (and better handling too boot). Just be sure to get the poly/poly , or poly/rod versions if you drive your car every day and do not want it to ride like a boxcar (lol) If you like the twisties, then you could go even further with some swaybars, and a panhard bar, and some stiffer springs but keep in mind you will sacrifice your straight line performance quite a bit.
Even after you max your suspension, you should have enough for a nice wet kit, and possibly some Drag radials (if you dont already have a set) if you do then you could use the left overs to complete your bolt on's such as a ported TB, and a underdrive pulley (not listed in your sig i think)
THEN, start saving up for your 12 bolt, because with traction, 4.10's and nitrous..you may need it But as long as you are carefull a 10 bolt can last a while without running slicks from what ive seen.
Take care, and good luck with you set up.
Edit: Saw that he has LCA's, and SFC's, but my point is the same.
TQ arm, LCA relocators (b/c of his lowering springs), DR's, nitrous, pulley, TB..should be close to his price range.
I would invest in some quality suspension components to put the nice power you allready posess to good use.
LCA's, Adjustable TQ arm, and Subframe Connectors, will take you a long way toward straight line traction (and better handling too boot). Just be sure to get the poly/poly , or poly/rod versions if you drive your car every day and do not want it to ride like a boxcar (lol) If you like the twisties, then you could go even further with some swaybars, and a panhard bar, and some stiffer springs but keep in mind you will sacrifice your straight line performance quite a bit.
Even after you max your suspension, you should have enough for a nice wet kit, and possibly some Drag radials (if you dont already have a set) if you do then you could use the left overs to complete your bolt on's such as a ported TB, and a underdrive pulley (not listed in your sig i think)
THEN, start saving up for your 12 bolt, because with traction, 4.10's and nitrous..you may need it
But as long as you are carefull a 10 bolt can last a while without running slicks from what ive seen.Take care, and good luck with you set up.
Edit: Saw that he has LCA's, and SFC's, but my point is the same.
TQ arm, LCA relocators (b/c of his lowering springs), DR's, nitrous, pulley, TB..should be close to his price range.
tellim Z28 venom.i agree those stock rear are going to go bye bye sooner or later if you run at the track with slicks and drop the clutch @ high rpms.just get a 9in. and get an aftermarket clutch while your at it.both of them stock will let go.just a matter of time.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: MI
I don't see any 1/4 mile time's in your sig so I take it you don't drag the car much so I don't know about a 12 bolt but if you really want to wake that cam up go with a good set of stage 2 heads you'll love them for some real spirted driving on the street. My 10 bolt Auburn has lasted with 2 year's with H/C and some pretty hard weekend driving. 
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 720
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by Z28Venom
It doesn't matter how much HP you're pushing. You can break these rears with stock HP. Build a good foundation and go from there. A strong rear is the best starting point with these cars.
We all know that the 10 sucks, and will break sooner or later, but I choose not to slow the progress of my car buy dumping $2k on one when I do not need it yet. If I ran slicks or even ET streets at the track on a regular basis then yes a 12 bolt would be a priority, however, I do not see the poster as such an individual. Im sure he wants the most effective gain for his money (as most of us do) A 12 bolt without any extra suspention upgrades, or running a sticky tire will net him what...3 tenths at the most IF he chooses a steeper gear? I have spent a few bucks on my car since I got it last year, and have knocked about a second off of my times. If I had bought a rear, I would still be running a 12.7 like the previous owner.
With the mods I listed within the $2k mark he would gain far more performance for his trouble. The person can enjoy the gains from the street from rolls or mild launches without much worry about the rear breaking. Then when he gets a little money saved (or a tax return
he can get it taken care of when the need arises. You just have to be smart about it, escpecially if he goes with some n20.Of course when modding our car we all have differnent ways of approaching the same thing. That is why they are our opinions. Ultimately, go with what seems right. Take Care alll.
My $0.02 
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Heads ... Stage II heads, then the tuning. You'll see respectable gains. As long as you don't launch hard with slicks or drag radials, IMO, you'll be OK with the stock rear except with 4.10's and an M6, your car will be unforgiving on the rear differential. If you drive hard all the time like I do, the posi unit will eventually go. My saving grace is (1) not too much power; (2) mine's a more forgiving A4.
Last edited by JEB99TA; Jan 8, 2005 at 04:39 AM. Reason: Accidentally hit the ENTER key
To do a nitrous setup of any value safely, you'll need a higher rated fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, window switch and you'll be pushing your injectors to their max 80% load to not risk detonation. Installed professionally a TNT 100 wetshot with 150 pills would cost you no less than $1,800. Of course this would include your tuning, as well, so ... DD966 is on the right track.
I'm faced with the same decisions you are. I have just decided to do StageII heads and eventually do a twin screw SC if they ever make a Procharger that I would like for the LS1.
Alot of people love the juice. I wish I had it this morning when ZoomZ smoked my *** from a 60 mph roll ... LOL!!! That is one FASSSST car!!!
If you do nitrous just be prepared to fill your bottle constantly. You'll use more nitrous than you think ... it's great to have, though. Just don't launch hard or your 10-bolt will be a ticking timebomb ... some here are very lucky and get several hundred launches even doing full nitrous 200 HP holeshots. Remember, this is not the general rule. It's the exception. Good luck on whatever you decide!!!
I'm faced with the same decisions you are. I have just decided to do StageII heads and eventually do a twin screw SC if they ever make a Procharger that I would like for the LS1.
Alot of people love the juice. I wish I had it this morning when ZoomZ smoked my *** from a 60 mph roll ... LOL!!! That is one FASSSST car!!!
If you do nitrous just be prepared to fill your bottle constantly. You'll use more nitrous than you think ... it's great to have, though. Just don't launch hard or your 10-bolt will be a ticking timebomb ... some here are very lucky and get several hundred launches even doing full nitrous 200 HP holeshots. Remember, this is not the general rule. It's the exception. Good luck on whatever you decide!!!
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: new orleans louisiana
im the new guy here, so i dont want to step on anyones toes, but heres my thoughts.
the argument over whether or not to go to a better rear end, is totally up to you. it all depends on whether you see the glass half full or half empty. you could say that you are going to need it sooner or later, and opt for it now, or you can say screw it and pick up some hp now and deal with traction later. maybe you should hold out and wait to go with a forced air induction kit...(have fun choosing which one to go with) but then you are still going to have to deal with traction. sts has a nice kit out there that is not too over priced, so you might want to look into that. now listen carefully.....this is by far the most important thing that im going to say. FOR CHRIST'S SAKE....TAKE OFF THE MUFFLER BEARINGS!!!!! <smiles>
the argument over whether or not to go to a better rear end, is totally up to you. it all depends on whether you see the glass half full or half empty. you could say that you are going to need it sooner or later, and opt for it now, or you can say screw it and pick up some hp now and deal with traction later. maybe you should hold out and wait to go with a forced air induction kit...(have fun choosing which one to go with) but then you are still going to have to deal with traction. sts has a nice kit out there that is not too over priced, so you might want to look into that. now listen carefully.....this is by far the most important thing that im going to say. FOR CHRIST'S SAKE....TAKE OFF THE MUFFLER BEARINGS!!!!! <smiles>
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 720
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by RACECARSBYQUICK
im the new guy here, so i dont want to step on anyones toes, but heres my thoughts.
the argument over whether or not to go to a better rear end, is totally up to you. it all depends on whether you see the glass half full or half empty. you could say that you are going to need it sooner or later, and opt for it now, or you can say screw it and pick up some hp now and deal with traction later. maybe you should hold out and wait to go with a forced air induction kit...(have fun choosing which one to go with) but then you are still going to have to deal with traction. sts has a nice kit out there that is not too over priced, so you might want to look into that. now listen carefully.....this is by far the most important thing that im going to say. FOR CHRIST'S SAKE....TAKE OFF THE MUFFLER BEARINGS!!!!! <smiles>
the argument over whether or not to go to a better rear end, is totally up to you. it all depends on whether you see the glass half full or half empty. you could say that you are going to need it sooner or later, and opt for it now, or you can say screw it and pick up some hp now and deal with traction later. maybe you should hold out and wait to go with a forced air induction kit...(have fun choosing which one to go with) but then you are still going to have to deal with traction. sts has a nice kit out there that is not too over priced, so you might want to look into that. now listen carefully.....this is by far the most important thing that im going to say. FOR CHRIST'S SAKE....TAKE OFF THE MUFFLER BEARINGS!!!!! <smiles>
I guess im a half full kinda guy. If it ain't broke... Hey, whats wrong with muffler bearings?
...I just got mine done. I picked up like 2 seconds at the track. Thats like one second more than my NAWS stickers. 
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 434
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From: Denton, TX
I'd look at a set of stage II heads. If you don't drag the car, don't worry about a 12 bolt. Just don't go putting slicks or drag radials on the car and trying to dump it at 5k RPM's.
A nice set of heads would be great with that cam you already have, and it would be very streetable. If you don't want to go with a set of heads, you could always do a NX wet shot if you don't want the power all of the time. Personally, I think you will have more fun with the heads because you don't have to fill them all of the time.
A nice set of heads would be great with that cam you already have, and it would be very streetable. If you don't want to go with a set of heads, you could always do a NX wet shot if you don't want the power all of the time. Personally, I think you will have more fun with the heads because you don't have to fill them all of the time.
Originally Posted by B-MAN
heads,MAF sensor,long tube headers,LS1 edit tune,12 bolt rear end with 410 gears,Nitrous, etc...
Let me know where you get your parts & installs from 
Originally Posted by JEB99TA
Alot of people love the juice. I wish I had it this morning when ZoomZ smoked my *** from a 60 mph roll ... LOL!!! That is one FASSSST car!!!
