Test drive, threw a code?
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From: Fort Myers, FL
Test drive, threw a code? - *updated* 10/7/05 **Update**
10/07/05:
Took the car to an autoparts store, and had the car scanned.. Results were:
P0131
P0137
P0151
P0157
P0530
The first four are related to the O2 sensors, and I wanted to know if that's likely to have been thrown due to running out of gas? They also just replaced the AC compressor so I believe that's why the last one was thrown too?
Any comments or opinions would be welcome. Thanks you guys.
I went down to a local carlot, as they had a 98 z28 there. (Darkblue, nbm maybe?) The car has about 104k on it, but they're asking about $7k for the car.
Test drove the car, ran out of gas while doing so =P.
The guy came out, put some gas in the car, and it drove fine. However.. after it ran out of gas the SES light came on, and stayed on.. I drove around for about 10 minutes longer and it never went away.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? I was told possible O2 sensor freaking out because it ran out of gas? Should I just forget about this car?
PS.
This was my first f-body driving experience, and even with the nonsense, I loved it. I *will* have one of these cars, perhaps not this one, but one none the less =P
10/07/05:
Took the car to an autoparts store, and had the car scanned.. Results were:
P0131
P0137
P0151
P0157
P0530
The first four are related to the O2 sensors, and I wanted to know if that's likely to have been thrown due to running out of gas? They also just replaced the AC compressor so I believe that's why the last one was thrown too?
Any comments or opinions would be welcome. Thanks you guys.
I went down to a local carlot, as they had a 98 z28 there. (Darkblue, nbm maybe?) The car has about 104k on it, but they're asking about $7k for the car.
Test drove the car, ran out of gas while doing so =P.
The guy came out, put some gas in the car, and it drove fine. However.. after it ran out of gas the SES light came on, and stayed on.. I drove around for about 10 minutes longer and it never went away.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? I was told possible O2 sensor freaking out because it ran out of gas? Should I just forget about this car?
PS.
This was my first f-body driving experience, and even with the nonsense, I loved it. I *will* have one of these cars, perhaps not this one, but one none the less =P
Last edited by melchoir; Oct 7, 2005 at 04:24 PM.
May just be something as simple as the gas cap is loose (that throws a code 
) so it could be something simple as that, if you're interested, go back and have the dealer tech scan the code (with you watching of course), then you can see what the problem is (remember the number and you can look at what the code is here)
) so it could be something simple as that, if you're interested, go back and have the dealer tech scan the code (with you watching of course), then you can see what the problem is (remember the number and you can look at what the code is here) Thread Starter
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From: Fort Myers, FL
We checked the gas cap, and retightened it, but the light stayed on. They don't have the equip there, just a small used car dealership, they said they'd have to wait until Monday to bring it to a mechanic.
TECH Senior Member
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From: Jacksonville, FL
I think running out of gas can cause a SES light - maybe P0171, but you won't know for sure without the code. Also, it's not nice to let these cars run low/out of gas - the fuel pumps don't like that. 
Thread Starter
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If it was running out of gas, after filling it back up and another 10 minutes of driving.. how long would it take for the light to go out? Or will it not go out?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,399
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From: Jacksonville, FL
All codes are different - P0171 (just my guess above) will turn itself off after 3 consecutive ignition cycles without a failure. The car could've also thrown a misfire code when it sputtered...or could even be something else. No way to tell without the actual code.
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If it was an EVAP code (gas cap leak would be EVAP) they usually need at least 2 drive cycles without the problem occurring again for the light to go out.
Certain parameters have to be present for the test to be run again. I believe the car has to cool down again before it can be started because the intake air temp and coolant temp have to be within about 15 degrees of each other. So leaving it over night and starting it in the morning would be good, or at least for a few hours.
Even if the CEL goes out, have a mechanic scan it using a Tech 2 as the code it threw will be stored in the History. I think it requires at least 30 or more drive cycles to clear the code from History, unless the battery is disconnected for a while or someone purposely clears the codes with a scan tool.
Certain parameters have to be present for the test to be run again. I believe the car has to cool down again before it can be started because the intake air temp and coolant temp have to be within about 15 degrees of each other. So leaving it over night and starting it in the morning would be good, or at least for a few hours.
Even if the CEL goes out, have a mechanic scan it using a Tech 2 as the code it threw will be stored in the History. I think it requires at least 30 or more drive cycles to clear the code from History, unless the battery is disconnected for a while or someone purposely clears the codes with a scan tool.
Administrator
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From: Houston, TX
Hell, drive it to an autoparts store and get it scanned then look up the code(s).
After a few clean starts it should go away....or you can pull the battery and engine fuse to clear the code and see if it comes back on, but I know that I would rather know what the code is before I'd buy it.
Peace,
Craig.
After a few clean starts it should go away....or you can pull the battery and engine fuse to clear the code and see if it comes back on, but I know that I would rather know what the code is before I'd buy it.
Peace,
Craig.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,399
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by melchoir
**Update**
10/07/05:
Took the car to an autoparts store, and had the car scanned.. Results were:
P0131
P0137
P0151
P0157
P0530
The first four are related to the O2 sensors, and I wanted to know if that's likely to have been thrown due to running out of gas? They also just replaced the AC compressor so I believe that's why the last one was thrown too?
Any comments or opinions would be welcome. Thanks you guys.
10/07/05:
Took the car to an autoparts store, and had the car scanned.. Results were:
P0131
P0137
P0151
P0157
P0530
The first four are related to the O2 sensors, and I wanted to know if that's likely to have been thrown due to running out of gas? They also just replaced the AC compressor so I believe that's why the last one was thrown too?
Any comments or opinions would be welcome. Thanks you guys.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
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From: Fort Myers, FL
Upon searching, gearchatter.com (AWESOME site for code info) it reads that those 4 top codes, ARE set when the car runs out of fuel. So I guess I might be buying this car afterall.. carfax was clean. =)
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally Posted by melchoir
Upon searching, gearchatter.com (AWESOME site for code info) it reads that those 4 top codes, ARE set when the car runs out of fuel. So I guess I might be buying this car afterall.. carfax was clean. =)
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
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From: Fort Myers, FL
Going by autotrader, the cheapest z28 (98-2002) within 100 miles is $7,900.. 67k on it. However, it is 100 miles away.. and going back and forth to look at that car would be a royal pain. Also since I'm not paying cash, and have a short credit history, I might not even be able to get financing at that place, assuming the car was tip-top.
