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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 09:56 AM
  #21  
LS1W66's Avatar
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From: St. Clair Shores Mi.
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My `98 has been Dead Reliable for 8+ Yrs.
I'm the original owner It had 9 miles on it when I picked it up Mar. `98
Currently at 113k miles and still on the Original Clutch.
I've only replaced the Waterpump and Bent pushrods from a missed shift.
She Dynoed 300 RWHP and 322 RWTQ on a Dynapack at 109k back in June (06). Definetly Lost some power over the last couple yrs but some new valve springs should fix that.
I don't read much into Dyno numbers I feel they are tools for tuning more than Bragging rights, But my Club had a dyno day and I got 3 pulls for $28 so i couldn't pass it up.
As for clutch The LS6 is just as much garbage as my stock one. The Later cars do have better hydraulics though.
And Early `98 still use BorgWarner trans's and I've heard they are stronger than the Tremac's. And if you don't think I drive hard I've had to replace my Engine and trans mounts with Polyurethane because I destroyed the stock ones. Too many high rpm Clutch drops.

Last edited by LS1W66; Nov 27, 2006 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 01:10 PM
  #22  
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
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Originally Posted by Duke_Z28
...hmm....this was meant as a semi-humorous post , and what you have told me is kinda what i expected, and actually what you say about all cars break is what i told my friends who took my car-death week as a time to poke fun at domestics. but i have seen some testimony, namely from www.rx7club.com, that the rotaries are reliable as long as you drive them right (different engine, different drive style) and upgrade a few items in which the mazda factory overlooked.
Tell your rice-a-phony pals that there are people on this board who own 7-9 year old, 100K mile + f bodies, that can run low 12s (or better) all day, with only MINOR bolt-ons (not even headers), start EVERY time for those 9 years, and have had to replace little to nothing except for the usual wear and tear items!! If the import fanboyzz don't believe you, tell them to see me. I will show them domestic reliability while tearing them a new one.
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 09:27 PM
  #23  
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From: Florida
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
rx7s are great cars if your a mechanic and its not your DD(unless its got a LSX ).
Doesn't the LSX mess with the weight balance of the car?(feel free to correct, im going into engineering and love to learn about this thing) one of the reasons i like the RX-7 is that it has (i think...) close to perfect front-rear weight balance. what cars would you recommend that are as lightweight, compact, well-balanced front-rear, FR, and generally agile?

PS- like i said my major is going to be Mech Engineering so im estatic to be able to work on these wonderful machines, and not afraid to devote a few hours per week upkeeping this car so long as i know what im doing and not working blindly
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #24  
dailydriver's Avatar
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
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Originally Posted by Duke_Z28
Doesn't the LSX mess with the weight balance of the car?(feel free to correct, im going into engineering and love to learn about this thing) one of the reasons i like the RX-7 is that it has (i think...) close to perfect front-rear weight balance.
In a word, NO! When people install one into an RX-7 (especially an FD), it is set back enough to be able to keep real close to the rotary's weight distribution. Add to that the fact of the LSx package being only slightly more mass than the turbo rotary deal (I've heard like 70# or so more?), remember, it's ALL alloy, and you can see there only being only 2-3% more (if that?) weight on the nose of the FC/FD. How bad can they be when so many road race this hybrid/conversion setup??
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