LS1 oil pan off - recommendations?
06-20-2007, 12:12 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
LS1 oil pan off - recommendations? Hi all...I'm new to this site & new to posting in general.
I am working on a '99 WS6 drivetrain I bought for my '96 Buick Roadmaster wagon. I bought a modded oilpan from Street & Performance (for clearing crossmember), and needed to send back the core. Sooooo...this evening I finally pulled the old pan, and while I have it off, I wanted to ask a few questions...
First, it looks like I'll need to do a little cleaning. I think this engine has been sitting a while, and the lower end seems to all be brown. Any suggestions/warning/precautions I should take cleaning down there? I was going to use either carb cleaner or engine block flush while the engine is tilted 90 degrees on my engine stand (so the gunk runs out, and doesn't sit in the pistons).
Second, I've heard that one of the few weak links with the stock lower end is the connecting rod bolts. Does it make sense to swap those out while I'm down there with and ARP set? Any preferences?
Third, I can use common sense, but is there a diagram for torque sequence /torque specs for the oil pan when I re-attach it? This is also my first experience with this style block & oil pan, and it seems there's a rubber gasked used in lieu of the old way of paper/cork/motherload 'o silicone. Is there any considerations with this factory seal, or should I be good to go? My new oil pan came with a new gasket.
Last, is there anything else I should check or address while I have this engine out of the car?
THANK you all for taking the time to impart your experiences!!!
Sincerely,
I am working on a '99 WS6 drivetrain I bought for my '96 Buick Roadmaster wagon. I bought a modded oilpan from Street & Performance (for clearing crossmember), and needed to send back the core. Sooooo...this evening I finally pulled the old pan, and while I have it off, I wanted to ask a few questions...
First, it looks like I'll need to do a little cleaning. I think this engine has been sitting a while, and the lower end seems to all be brown. Any suggestions/warning/precautions I should take cleaning down there? I was going to use either carb cleaner or engine block flush while the engine is tilted 90 degrees on my engine stand (so the gunk runs out, and doesn't sit in the pistons).
Second, I've heard that one of the few weak links with the stock lower end is the connecting rod bolts. Does it make sense to swap those out while I'm down there with and ARP set? Any preferences?
Third, I can use common sense, but is there a diagram for torque sequence /torque specs for the oil pan when I re-attach it? This is also my first experience with this style block & oil pan, and it seems there's a rubber gasked used in lieu of the old way of paper/cork/motherload 'o silicone. Is there any considerations with this factory seal, or should I be good to go? My new oil pan came with a new gasket.
Last, is there anything else I should check or address while I have this engine out of the car?
THANK you all for taking the time to impart your experiences!!!
Sincerely,
06-20-2007, 08:29 AM
#2
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I would swap out the rod bolts while ur in there, ARP High-performance series, Or the ones Katech sells. When you torque oil pan bolts start in the middle and work your way out 18ft lbs, and the long ones at the back of the motor you torque less the the rest, its either 89in pds or 109in pds i cant remember off hand. You should be able to search and find that.
Use the new gasket that came with the pan. The old one should be riveted in place, If you have a rivet gun, rivet it back in place. That may make things easier down the road on ya, if not no bigge. I usually put a little red RTV at all 4 corners, where the covers meet the pan and block.
Good luck on ur swap, my bro will be doing his 94' impala prolly next year.
Use the new gasket that came with the pan. The old one should be riveted in place, If you have a rivet gun, rivet it back in place. That may make things easier down the road on ya, if not no bigge. I usually put a little red RTV at all 4 corners, where the covers meet the pan and block.
Good luck on ur swap, my bro will be doing his 94' impala prolly next year.
06-20-2007, 08:47 AM
#3
Hmm, don't know about the riveting stuff?
Anyhow my oil pan gasket was a metal gasket that had rubber around it and the bolt holes (like the 99+ water pump gaskets, front timing cover gasket) Don't know anything about rivets. Use the gasket it came with.
I'd go ahead and swap in katech rod bolts, easiest to deal with.
Depending on how skilled you are and how old the engine is, I would possibly look into new bearings just for piece of mind.
Anyhow my oil pan gasket was a metal gasket that had rubber around it and the bolt holes (like the 99+ water pump gaskets, front timing cover gasket) Don't know anything about rivets. Use the gasket it came with.
I'd go ahead and swap in katech rod bolts, easiest to deal with.
Depending on how skilled you are and how old the engine is, I would possibly look into new bearings just for piece of mind.
06-20-2007, 11:05 PM
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
I went ahead and ordered a connecting rod bolt kit. The new gasket is as you describe, 777...metal with the attached butyl rubber surround. Thanks for the advice on the bearings; I figued I'd pull a cap when I change out the bolts and look for any scoring on the bearing and make the call then. Bearings can be had locally, so no biggie, but the bolt set needed ordering.
Also...I'm not sure what to call it, so for lack of knowledge, I'll say oil pan baffle. There seems to be a cover that bolts into the bottom of the oil pan with a hole in it where the pick-up unit went through. My new modified pan did not come with one. However, I see that these engines use a windage tray, so I didn't know how necessary that baffle was. If it were useful, I could cut down my original and make it work.
Also...I'm not sure what to call it, so for lack of knowledge, I'll say oil pan baffle. There seems to be a cover that bolts into the bottom of the oil pan with a hole in it where the pick-up unit went through. My new modified pan did not come with one. However, I see that these engines use a windage tray, so I didn't know how necessary that baffle was. If it were useful, I could cut down my original and make it work.
