While I feel you were rude and pretentious in your reply, I will not follow suit. I enjoy a friendly tech thread every now and again. Honestly there are many ways to go about getting the same result. I will be the first to admit it, however, I feel that there is a better way of going about dialing in this scenario. You disagree, and that’s fine…I just ask that you act like an adult when you address it. I tried to be discreet with my post and add that it was a personal preference and never once did I take a jab at you as you so kindly phrased your last sentence. I think we all know you always try and shine any threat to your business in a negative light but I really don’t see a need for it in this thread. We’re all here offering technical advice and it seems like you’re the only one turning into a competition for business.

The problem I see with the above mentioned method is purely assumption. You’re assuming that there won’t be any issues with the plate or intake. And let’s face it, no amount of fuel jet changes are going to make the plate or intake distribute anymore evenly. By flowing it second, you could possibly compound any issues inherent with the intake and plate when spraying both stages. So why not use a direct port to your advantage in a scenario such as this? According to the original poster, both stages will be on after 8 tenths of a second. That’s roughly 8~9% of the time that the plate will be on by itself. So again, using the other logic, the remaining 91% should suffer just so you can dial in the 9% and then go back in and address the issues. You can go through a million and one band-aid scenarios to fix things, so why not add another tool to your arsenal by flowing the plate first? I think it’s a tremendous advantage in a direct port to compensate for any issues with the entire system. I really think that this scenario needs to be addressed as an over all system. Flow the components individually to eliminate any inherent flaws with each piece and then go to the system. Doing the plate first just makes more sense and opens up another advantage of tune-ability with the direct port.

Mike

 

I would run a single bottle with the 500 to 600 you're looking to run, simply because you're gonna be changing the bottle every run anyway, and if you are going to run a push on the bottles anyway, your pressure drop isn't a concern.

I would run one purge at the plate's solenoid, and one at the Y where you're splitting to go to the DP solenoids, this way it's clean right up to the solenoids on both kits, it will be more consistant. For max consistancey, I'd run a purge right at every nitrous solenoid (3 in this case) mainly becuase it would make sure that both sides get everything evenly at the hit.

Low pressure fuel side would be best, run a single pump on the standalone, just have the feed Y'd to 2 seperate fuel pressure regulators.

I would start with the DP then the plate, plates tend to hit harder, and it would be easier on the motor to have that come in at a higher rpm.

As for what brand of kit and whatnot to run, the DP is up to you there's ton's of options out there for that and they're all good, just different on the tuneup's a little bit depending on what distribution blocks are used, what nozzle, etc.

The shop I deal with does 99% of their stuff with Nos stuff, mainly because they are the most farmiliar with it. But, there's lots of options.

In the plate department, the speedtech diffuser plate is a very good setup, they distribute very well from the people I know that are using them, better then alot of the spray bar type plates that are out there, and the power is definately there as well. They also offer that plate in a 2 stage setup, so you could have 3 guns on the car with one of those, 3rd stage with another 100 hit on a pushbutton for that end of track squeeze out if you had to on a close race/ for the $

Tuning of the entire setup is going to take some time, I'd suggest starting with the timing as low as possible as this will help save parts regardless of the power level, and you're going to have to tune them both together. I'd make a test run with one kit on, then the other so you know they're both working, start with them both at about a 150 to 200 hp level no more then that, once you know that they both are good and the plugs look good, pull the timing all the way back and make a 1/2 track hit with both kits and see where you're at.

Creep up on it don't try to set the world on fire the first pass and you'll be o.k. Depending on what jet spreads you want to run will depend on the jetting, I can't reccommend anything in that department because everyone likes to do something differnet in that department, same with fuel pressure.

Just remember too rich will hurt as much stuff as too lean, so don't go crazy adding fuel thinking it will be safer it doesn't work that way.

 

JL has a good point and so does DAVE. I know I have a 2 stage NX kit on my car with a FAB power ring running to shark nozzles that RAY help me set up and when I dialed in the first stage is was right on then when I brought on the 2nd stage it went super rich because you have both kits running at the same time which combines more fuel in. So tune one kit then start out with the other kit and watch your air fuel you may have to end up taking the 2nd kit and doing a lower fuel jet. as JL said

 

The Harris guys, and Dave both have good points and both have done alot of good stuff... I wasn't trying to lean towards either one's advise. Just throwing another point of view in on it.

 

I think everyone tries to make it out to be, who is on whose side. Lol, its almost sad you had to make that post stating you werent on either side, just to avoid conflict with another member. When I posted from the beginning, I was simply stating my opinion and personal preference. You are a smart guy, knowledgeable with nitrous and experienced at the track. Just like you, I was simply trying to lend some insight to the OP based on our experience. It's really unfortunate for the community that these threads become a battle of right or wrong cause someone's ego was offended.

Dave's method and my method achieve the same result in the end, we simply have a different means to an end.

 

I appreciate all the advice I have learned A LOT from this thread, I already have an NOS Pro fogger kit so I would like to stick with NOS brand. What would be a GREAT 2 stage kit from NOS for a 4500 style flange? Thanks again you have all been great!

Joe

 

There's alot of ways to get there. Any minute Robert will come in and tell us how we can do it dry Not that it can't be done as well and it will work just as good, just a different approach.

I have my thoughts as to the best way to get to where the thread starter wants to be, but it involves 3 stages to get the car down the track a little more consistantly and to lessen the hit on the motor.

Little more $ that way, but in the long run it would probably work better.

 

What route would you go if it was you? Looking to cover every option then do it right the first time

 

I like Jason's idea of running a 2 stage speedtech plate and the direct port. I think a lot of things need to be taken into account first though. What motor, what suspension setup, what class, etc. Just simply based on a shot size of 500-600 I would entertain the idea of a 3 stage setup.

 

I'll represent robert....BS3....Five stages of dry...gitty up

 

I'd put 2 foggers and a plate on it honestly.

That way you can really tune in each cylinder accurately, then for the last 100 to 150 hp worth I'd use the plate.

But, 2 foggers first kit witha 26 jet and the 2nd with a 32 jet should probably get ya where you want to be, and the plate you could use as a last resort for the finals, but be ready to buy a set of pistons

If you want to be a litte more budget minded, a single fogger with annular nozzles and a 2 stage diffuser plate, you could just put a 30 jet in the fogger, then bring in another 200 worth via the plate a little out, since the plates hit harder I'd rather see that brought in later so the hit isn't so hard on the motor. Then you still have the 2nd plate stage for a last resort.


2 foggers and a plate would be the best route, unless you really do have unlimited funds to do this, in that case put 3 foggers on it, but with the potential nitrous flow of what that could do it might be really easy to get greedy and blow some stuff up really good.

BUt, there's an advantage of that, every kit will hit differently, so if you wanted to shoot 500, you could have all 3 foggers set up with 250 worth and depending on the track and how the car is hooking you could only utilize 2 at a time to get the best results.

Promod cars usually have 5 stages on them, they're not shooting all 5 I can tell you that, usually they use 3 of them, 4 in the finals for the big $. They change it up with what kit comes on first, what comes on 2nd and what kind of time between to get the car's down the track the best. Or, put 175 to 200 in all 3 kits, and use them all, changing it up for the track conditions.

Noone's really done that with these cars yet, I think 3 stages done right really could put cars into the 7 second range if done right on a car that works well enough.