The true cost of n2o.....
The true cost of n2o..... My concern with n2o has always been there is no real safe way with a wet / dry shot (agreed fairly safe, but not bullet proof), and dp would probably end up too expensive. Wouldn't it?
Both wet and dry are in the relms of affordability.
If say I go with a dry shot, and the worst happens (fuel system / pcm / MAF fail), can it be fixed, and how much would it probably cost me ?(worst case scenareo).....
Same for wet, if it goes wrong (if it puddles or goes lean), can it be fixed, and if so, how much would that cost me? (again, worst case)....
I guess my tranny and 10 bolt would be in the fireing line, and is there anything else I should upgrade too?
I know I'm playing carefull bugger, I just want to be sure of what I might be getting myself into.
Thanks for the advise...
Both wet and dry are in the relms of affordability.
If say I go with a dry shot, and the worst happens (fuel system / pcm / MAF fail), can it be fixed, and how much would it probably cost me ?(worst case scenareo).....
Same for wet, if it goes wrong (if it puddles or goes lean), can it be fixed, and if so, how much would that cost me? (again, worst case)....
I guess my tranny and 10 bolt would be in the fireing line, and is there anything else I should upgrade too?
I know I'm playing carefull bugger, I just want to be sure of what I might be getting myself into.
Thanks for the advise...
Worst case is having a back fire that dislodges the fuel rail, then your hole care will most likely be toast. There is no one on here that can tell you what will or won't happen and how much it will cost to fix. The best thing you can do is spend the money and build your system to prevent it from happening. I guarantee a huge majority of blown motors or fires were from not having a simple nitrous filter. Wet, dry, pre maf, post maf, direct port, doesnt matter, if your solenoid sticks open from debris you are going to have a bad day.
With any kit you want to make sure you are running the appropriate accessories and tune. nitrous filter is the most simple and cheap form of insurance i know. An A/F cutoff switch is very important as well. Make sure you pull plenty of timing and a cold enough plug for your application. If done right you can run a kit safely for a very long time, even on a stock motor.
With any kit you want to make sure you are running the appropriate accessories and tune. nitrous filter is the most simple and cheap form of insurance i know. An A/F cutoff switch is very important as well. Make sure you pull plenty of timing and a cold enough plug for your application. If done right you can run a kit safely for a very long time, even on a stock motor.
As with any aftermarket power adder if something goes wrong its going to be costly. Nitrous has developed a bad rap over time due to poorly designed products and people taking short cuts and not doing it right.
Nitrous has came along way over time. The best advice I can give you is pick the products and advice you choose carefully. Do it right with the right products and you can have years of safe fun.
Let me know if I can answer any questions for you.
Dave
Nitrous has came along way over time. The best advice I can give you is pick the products and advice you choose carefully. Do it right with the right products and you can have years of safe fun.
Let me know if I can answer any questions for you.
Dave
