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First time down the track with HSW kit, problems...

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Old May 7, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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Anyone wanna buy a brand new in box MSD digital window switch? I got it for about $145 shipped, will sell for a good deal.

Also, pulled the plugs, the gap was actually at .038 but they looked white, running lean. No sign of detonation though. Looks like it's a fuel delivery issue. Gonna change out the fuel filter first but I have a feeling it's the fuel pump... the car runs hard NA though...
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V
Anyone wanna buy a brand new in box MSD digital window switch? I got it for about $145 shipped, will sell for a good deal.

Also, pulled the plugs, the gap was actually at .038 but they looked white, running lean. No sign of detonation though. Looks like it's a fuel delivery issue. Gonna change out the fuel filter first but I have a feeling it's the fuel pump... the car runs hard NA though...
Did you shut the engine down after a WOT pull, and pull the plugs, or did you drive it before pulling them? I seriously doubt it is lean.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V
Anyone wanna buy a brand new in box MSD digital window switch? I got it for about $145 shipped, will sell for a good deal.

Also, pulled the plugs, the gap was actually at .038 but they looked white, running lean. No sign of detonation though. Looks like it's a fuel delivery issue. Gonna change out the fuel filter first but I have a feeling it's the fuel pump... the car runs hard NA though...
Lots of great info for you here, you need a wideband and a fuel pressure gauge to see what is going on, the more safety items you install the less chance you have of destroying your motor and costing you thousands.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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No, I didn't pull the plugs right after a WOT run... why would that change the condition the plugs were in?

Also, what is a good, relatively inexpensive wideband a/f gauge setup?
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V
No, I didn't pull the plugs right after a WOT run... why would that change the condition the plugs were in?

Also, what is a good, relatively inexpensive wideband a/f gauge setup?
You must do a WOT and shut the car off and basicly coast to a stop... pull plugs.. and then you will have a accurate idea of what the motor is doing DURING WOT.

the plugs will basicly reflect how its running at the rpm/load/throttle position that it was last in.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V

Also, what is a good, relatively inexpensive wideband a/f gauge setup?
Aem makes an inexpensive wideband. Easy to install also.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V
Anyone wanna buy a brand new in box MSD digital window switch? I got it for about $145 shipped, will sell for a good deal.

Also, pulled the plugs, the gap was actually at .038 but they looked white, running lean. No sign of detonation though. Looks like it's a fuel delivery issue. Gonna change out the fuel filter first but I have a feeling it's the fuel pump... the car runs hard NA though...
You could use the MSD Window switch if you plan or running dual in tank fuel pumps. Just a thought. My buddy is using the MSD Window Switch for his second fuel pump. Dont know what your future plans are. Just a thought.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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Just out of curiosity, why did you run 100 n2o jets and 125 fuel jets in the first place?

I have a NANO system and I ran 100 and 125 jets my first couple runs and everything went great, then I up-ed them to 125 n2o and 150 fuel jets and it went way way rich.

Also how is your tune? Whats a Sniper Nitrous Tune? Im not familar, is that a mail order deal?
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Old May 8, 2009 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V
No, I didn't pull the plugs right after a WOT run... why would that change the condition the plugs were in?

Also, what is a good, relatively inexpensive wideband a/f gauge setup?
Reading plugs that have been idling is of little use. You need to pull them after a wot run and shut the car down immediately after the pull. I would also highly recommend running a window switch with the kit as it is way too easy to have an accidental arming outside your rpm window. I assume the kit is at least wired with a relay, inline fuse and wot switch?

Nick
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Old May 8, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick@HSW
Reading plugs that have been idling is of little use. You need to pull them after a wot run and shut the car down immediately after the pull. I would also highly recommend running a window switch with the kit as it is way too easy to have an accidental arming outside your rpm window. I assume the kit is at least wired with a relay, inline fuse and wot switch?

Nick
Nick, of course. I do plan on installing a window switch, i'm trying to see if anyone wants to buy my MSD so I can buy the one you guys sell. I don't know why I didn't get the Microedge in the 1st place, they are about the same price.

And the Sniper tune is like an HP tuners, you make your own tunes via laptop but it's a lot more basic. I'm basically running their canned nitrous tune for a 100 shot. I can modify the fuel and spark more but I don't feel like it until I hit the dyno. The sniper software comes with datalogging as well unforunately my damn laptop battery is dead so I can't do that at this point...
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Old May 8, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Braciole
I agree with the above the pump can suck. Where I go they freeze the bottle
and fill it by gravity, NO AIR!
There is always air in the bottle, every bottle, empty or full, regardless of the pump ,style, or gravity fed. "full" bottles" are only about 2/3 full of liquid N20, the rest is a mix od N20 vapor and air. A few years ago when someone posted that they had 10lbs of air I actually calcualted the weight of compressed air, just to prove a point.

My guess is if he has small noids, then the N20 didn't open when he first got to the track, then opened after his jet change, but probably nothing to do with the jet change.
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Old May 10, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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Here is my setup, should I move the nozzle further downstream?

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Old May 11, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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It looks like twin butterflys right? Maybe a LT1 plate will work on this setup? What size is the throttle body?
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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The throttle body is either a twin 55mm or twin 57mm, forget which one...
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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Nitrous outlet makes a 58mm plate kit for the butterflys used for a LT1, maybe you could figure out a way to make that fit. Or call nitrous outlet and try to find out how to make that work . Would make the nitrous side of things very impressive.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Well I just got this setup, gonna stick with it and see how it does for awhile. I will look into a plate conversion in the future maybe... Do you think the nozzle is too close to the throttle body, some people are saying that only the front half of the motor is seeing most of the nitrous/fuel?
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Old May 11, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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No, it is fine tell them they should be quite. Espically if they dont know what they are talking about. The nozzle probabley sits in the middle between both butterflys and hopefully is dividing it into both butterflys pretty evenly.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 98LSC32V
Here is my setup, should I move the nozzle further downstream?

As per the installation instructions, yes move it further downstream.

Nick
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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Wouldn't then just hit the back wall of the intake elbow and spray the back butterfly with more nitrous and gas?
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Old May 14, 2009 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 99Ls1fever
Wouldn't then just hit the back wall of the intake elbow and spray the back butterfly with more nitrous and gas?
No it will be drawn into the plenum. The nozzle should be 4-6 inches away from throttle body opening or any major bends in the system.

Nick
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