What size are they, and what pressure were they rated at originally? Also red top, is that the Ford SVO style from their performance division?

Adding a wet kit/hit into the mix is fine, however, I always suggest doing so at a higher point in the RPM band. That way, keeping the air moving at a greater velocity will reduce fuel drop out issues. Many are in fact running the Dry hits as a 1st stage, then adding a 2nd stage of wet later in the run or higher in the RPM band. Benefits are great, no off launch lean spike, minimizes the chance of fuel drop at lower RPMs, and a great way to pull timing. For a while I had a wet nozzle kit on my Z06 as my 3rd stage. But, upon review, I couldn't find any real benefit running a wet stage, only down falls. So off it came and now 3rd stage is on my Dry plate.

Many were telling me that the 42's (Ford SVO green tops) would not support my HP levels. Below is a quote from my site, just for insight for those reading along. I didn't even hit 80% duty cycle at 644rwhp. The point I am making is that many injectors are rated at lower fuel pressures compared to what the LSx platform runs and often times we have much more capacity than we realize. That's an old Dry tuning trick, up the fuel pressure and increase the capacity of any injector we may be using. when running a custom fuel system with a regulator at the rails, we can increase the psi a few pounds and extend the useable range of the injectors. I have done this in the past in order to up the Dry HP shot with out changing the injectors out.

There is math for converting a lower pressure injector to our PSI, but we can generally just add 15% to the known rating. My new 60lb injectors have this benefit, as they will flow closer to 70lbs rather than the rated 60lbs. Now, had I run non Ford SVO 42lb'ers (above example) I might have run out of room if they had been rated at 42lbs @ 58psi, rather than 42lbs @ 43psi.

Robert

 

Robert56 do you make 644 rwhp on all 3 stages or just the first?

 

You are the one that was negating the benefit of dry kits as tricking, not me. I just used the obvious to point out how ridiculous that argument is.

I don't totally disagree with your input, as having all the safety stuff is key to a good install; however, once both style kits have all of the goodies, things can still go wrong with the wet hit and will not effect the dry hits. I will cover this a little later in the thread when I get a chance and believe you will be surprised.

Here is my biggest complaint with your debate: You are using old out dated arguments that have no real basis in the modern dry after the MAF style kits. Once again, I do not support before the nozzle style wet or dry kits. Nozzle kits on the LSx platform is dated technology, IMO.

I think you would do much better in your debating if you had up to date information and understood how the dry technology is now being applied. The cutting edge technology has made the dry a very good option and really has nothing to do with anything you stated against the dry tech of old. Modern tech, due to the smart engineers out there, have allowed us to totally control all aspects of the dry hit with the stock PCM. Myself, I love the up to date methods and tech compared to the old school mechanically controlled wet hits.

This is exactly what this thread is all about, guys like yourself using out dated facts to still try to put the dry kits in bad light. Things have changed dramatically. try running a street/strip Dry Direct Port a year and half ago. It was very expensive and complicated and required a new PCM. Now we can do everything we need with the stock PCM. We use our injectors to fuel all performance n/a needs, as well as all turbo(s) needs and blower needs. It's really not much different than the turbos needing other than stock info and injectors to run the big HP. whens the last time someone hurt their motor from the injector(s) failing? yes it happens, but very remote indeed. So now the dry technology has come full circle and we can fuel our dry hits very easily and repeatably. there will be no variations in your a/f ratio going with the new after the MAF style kits, so your nozzle tuning argument is nulled, it just does not apply any longer.

I enjoy debating and talking tech with you, no doubt. i am glad your happy with your wet kit. My goal is not to make you switch, but rather point out the new tech that most do not realize is here. I think what happens the most is many think that I am trying a this way or no way thing. Not so, just want people to really understand that there are now very viable options to the old school style wet hits. many are comfortable with sticking with the wet, as it is easier to understand, as it has been around unchanged for 40 years. On the other hand, many of us with the LSx platform and computers really love the high tech that goes along with it, I know I do. so in conclusion, some will via for staying wet due to ease of understanding and some will go high tech dry because they are already into the high performance tuning and own HP Tuners or similar and have a wide band and etc.

Just to make sure, I know my style sometimes seems aggressive, but really I am not like that. Nothing personal and we are opening the doors for many reading along to get a better grasp on the whole nitrous experience. I have a great passion for some reason concerning nitrous, and believe this to be true due to the ever changing high tech of these cars and how dry fits into this. If I stayed with the wet kits I would have been done talking on this forum 5 years ago, as not much has changed in that regard, lol. Good day and look forward to your next post.

You see this as cheap, lol. You may change your mind once you realize what is really going here. Nozzles are dead. You based your cheap comment on something that does not apply what so ever to my system, there are no nozzles. However, I did have great success with my 4-nozzle set-up on my previous set-up. The a/f ratios no longer wander nor change at all.




Robert

 

On two stages on my old nozzle set-up. Looking to go towards 800rwhp with new set-up but have not dyno'ed it yet.
Robert

 

i think what robert is tryin to tell yall is you need alot of expensive **** to make a dry shot safe lol

but really, without alot of extra stuff your ALWAYS gonna have to spray MORE with the dry kit than you have to spray with a wet kit to make the same amout of power.

n2o jet for a wet 150 shot is ~.065
n2o jet for a dry 150 shot is what ~.100-.110?

enough said.

 

haha my thoughts exactly.

 

Is Pointless

 

with posts like these.

 

LOL, DC your arguements are not helping your overall arguement on the subject. I love when people try to talk to Robert like they know more about dry kits. It's just flat out commical.

I think theres alot of people that dont know Robert or his past history in the nitrous world. For those of us who do, we listen to his advice.

DC, your not just tryin to tell a regular everyday member who happens to run a dry set-up he is wrong. Your tryin to tell a guy with more nitrous experience in his pinky than you have in your entire being that he is wrong & your right.

I'll say this one time & one time only. Dry kits do not only rely on the ol' spray & pray method of just placing a nozzle & hoping it's ok. Maybe they do on cheap **** kits people try to piece together. But not when people who actually know what the **** they are doin with a nitrous kit install one. So what if I need 1 $150 nitrous controller along with the standard safety features like WOT switch, FP safety switch & what not. Thats a minimal cost to never have to worry about puddling in the intake.

Let me ask you this self proclaimed nitrous guru, how many dry kits have you seen cause puddling & massive intake explosion due to a severe backfire? I'd almost bet my left nut you have never seen a single case of this happening yet you still scream wet is safer. Your logic & arguements on the subject make no sense. They are only your opinions on it & even those are wrong. Maybe you should listen to those more experienced in a certain field before you attempt to argue with them. You might actually learn something.

If your just gonna bolt on a wet kit & think it'll take care of everything for you, well there is no getting thru to you anyway, LOL. How you gonna check your A/F without at least a wideband or some tuning program? You just gonna take the nitrous manufactures word for it according to jet size? Cause if so thats very dumb to do. Different elevations & other factors can skew those parameters. So your still gonna have to tune it in to a certain extent.

 

Everyone who reads your post is now dumber.
If you dont know what your talking about stop talking.

Clownshoes

 

I'm sure your Lterd1 is faster right? haha

 

LOL, but thats what mister DC the new nitrous guru is seeing as well ATV, how can this be, LMAO......

I'm with you on this ATV. I'll stick to listening to the long time members like yourself & Robert way before listen to these other guys who have no accomplishments to their name or have yet to prove they even know WTF they are tryin to talk about.

 

Well your a retard also.
Since your agreeing with that idiot makes everything you posted worthless.

 

I'm no expert but anyone who tells you that a 65n jet in a wet system is = to a 110n jet in a dry system is someone who doesnt know a thing about nitrous.

My car went 5.69 @ 123 in the 1/8th with a 24n jet in the direct port. (roughly 175 shot and easily a 8 second pass)
Now according to these jokers you need almost double the jet to make the same power with dry system. Maybe I should switch to a wet system and go 7's on the same jetting.

 

You are retarded. you do not have to spray more with a dry to make the same. the nitrous is the same its just how you get your fuel. some kits call for a bigger jets for a few reasons. mainly cheep kits have a restriction some where and they need a bigger jet to get the volume to the nozzle. its not a wet vs dry thing its a parts in the kit thing. 2nd some companies use a .01-.02 bigger jet so there 150 makes more. its advertising. if you pick up 1 second on my 100 shot and 1.3 on someone elses your going to tell your buddies to buy theres. even though the 1.3 was really 130 hp not 100.This is because people are stupid and you are proving it over and over. along with the other clown here.

 

 

jetting for wet or dry is exactly the same. .62 for a 150 shot on either kit.

also, what expensive **** are you talking about? if your refering to the interface, the price of the Dry plate kit w/ interface is almost the same as the wet plate kit. The interface also functions as a timing device, so your really saving money. Other than that a dry kit requires the same accesorries any wet kit needs to function consistently and properly.

 

That's really not true at all. There IS additional airflow, the MAF picks up on it and adds a corresponding amount of fuel. I fail to see how that is tricking anything? As robert mentioned, that would be like saying a tubrocharger is tricking the MAF as well.

Same goes for the interface. It does not "trick" the computer into anything. There IS additional airflow so the interface TELLS the computer to add more fuel. No different than the MAF does on an NA application.

As for the debate, there really isnt one i dont know why this question keeps coming up. Neither is safer than the other when properly setup.

 

That is all

 

Again, what expensive **** do you need that makes a dry shot more then a wet shot? I don't want to hear about injectors. 9 times out of 10 you are doing other work to your motor that requires an injector upgrade. So you simply plan around it. Fuel pump needs to be ugpraded just as a wet kit would. If you get the dry plate kit with the interface, its almost the same price as the wet plate kit.

I dont want you to think im jumping down your throat, i actually enjoy conversations like this, everybody learns new stuff when a lot of information gets out there.