Can I use Constant Instead of Switched 12V+?
Can I use Constant Instead of Switched 12V+? Hi, I was just wondering if I can use constant instead of switched 12V+ to go to my switch panel since each switch can individually turn on or shut off the power? I'm not so worried about battery drain since I drive the car every day and the switches should do a good job of shutting the power off?
I am thinking about splicing into my cigarette lighter socket wiring which for some reason is 12V+ constant.
I just don't want to make a big mistake, any help would be great!
I am thinking about splicing into my cigarette lighter socket wiring which for some reason is 12V+ constant.
I just don't want to make a big mistake, any help would be great!
do you have a traction control switch? those have a switched 12v wire. This is just drawing to trigger your relays correct? If so drawing from the tcs would be fine.
If you want to go constant should be no problem with it, just don't forget to shut anything off!
If you want to go constant should be no problem with it, just don't forget to shut anything off!
You can run the wires straight to your battery, if you want. It won't directly cause any problems.
Indirectly, however, it could be a nightmare. Say you forgot to turn off your bottle heater. *boom* Or, as happened to many Ford owners with a particular cruise control setup, what if there's a little glitch and something gets hot? The Ford owners woke to find their trucks in flames.
Running switched power to anything that does not absolutely NEED constant is a good idea, as the ignition cutoff provides just one more layer of safety.
Indirectly, however, it could be a nightmare. Say you forgot to turn off your bottle heater. *boom* Or, as happened to many Ford owners with a particular cruise control setup, what if there's a little glitch and something gets hot? The Ford owners woke to find their trucks in flames.
Running switched power to anything that does not absolutely NEED constant is a good idea, as the ignition cutoff provides just one more layer of safety.
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I opted for constant power to the opener.
Reason: If a backfire related fire fed by fuel, first thing kill the car (ign off to stop the fuel pump). Next remotely close the bottle (with car off) in case nitrous (Stuck Noid) is feeding the already lit fuel fire.
Reason: If a backfire related fire fed by fuel, first thing kill the car (ign off to stop the fuel pump). Next remotely close the bottle (with car off) in case nitrous (Stuck Noid) is feeding the already lit fuel fire.
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Verdad Gallardo that's a good idea to consider as well, we don't run bottle openers in ours since the little bit of street driving most of ours see is bottle-less anyways...
Heater on constant isn't a big problem, since you'll kill your battery in about 20 minutes or so with it pulling 300W. You'd be hard pressed to get enough pressure build heating that long to pop the burst disc, let alone rupture a cylinder.
