ok guys, im kinda of new but not really. i did search, all i found was a couple posts saying not to. now i want to know why. CAM2. i have cam 2 on the pump here in indy. its 110 octane but its leaded. now, why cant you use leaded fuel in the stand alone tank. this is probably a simple answer and im just and idiot. say i want to run some unleaded fuel with a super high octane in that tank, any recomendations? and also, what are the benefiets to running something like 110 octane or higher in the stand alone tank. thanks in advance.

 

Leaded fuel tends to eat the oxygen sensors in our cars. I don't see why running the 110 just for the spray would hurt it. I have never tried it but I know of people who have and they ended up not hurting anything. The higher octane is to avoid detonation. What size shot are you running? Is your computer tuned for the spray? I run CAM2 100 octane in my fuel tank and have sprayed a 250hp shot with no problems. My computer is tuned for the nitrous though.

 

I run leaded 110 octane in my standalone. You won't hurt any o2 sensors with the brief amount of time you're spraying.

 

my computer is not tuned for nitrous. i am spraying a 100 shot on a stock ls1 2004 gto. my plugs are reading good, and everything is working great. i was just curious if i went to a much higher octane in the stand alone if it would be possible to push it to a 150. i thought i may try it, just wanted some opinions first.

 

I am sure it has been done. What type of plugs are your running? I wouldn't do it with tuning. I am pulling 6 degrees of timing out for the 150 shot.

 

see, thats what gets me, i have been told by three sponsors that i can run a 100 shot on my stock tune just fine,(but stilll to check plugs) one even said i could probably get away with a 150 just do a couple wot tests and read the plugs. and if it dont look good back down a 100. either way, im ordering a harris interface and pulling some timing. and im using NKG BR7EF gapped at .035. but i was just curious if using a MUCH higher octane fuel in the tank would possibly eliminate the need to pull so much timing. im still at my wits end on how much to pull per how many horse power. i havent sprayed the 100 yet. but im sure itll be fine. as i know many 04's on a 100 shot. and the first night i got it going i used a hole bottle on a 50 shot on stock plugs. read the plugs and they looked GREAT> just went colder anyway for the bigger shot

 

You also need to remember that the gto timing is much more conservative from the factory than the f body. There's is like 26 and ours is like 19 or something like that.
Don't focus too much on the amount of timing you need to pull and worry more about the total timing you need to run.

 

thats what im weirded out about. im to new to this whole thing. im trusting to many people i think. but all the info im getting is from sponsors. i dont know, i guess ill just stick with the 100 shot and call it a day, id really like to hit the 150 shot, but i dont think itll happen. i pride myself on being able to research and do all my mods myself. with maybe a friend to turn a wrench. but i like to do all the engineering of the system, or so to speak. i wish someone with an 04 goat sprayin a 150 shot would chime in. lol. by the way slammin86, i have the TWIN to your car. wingless blacked out pbm. lol.

 

why not run a tr6 plug with the 150 shot

 

im runnin BR7EF, its one stage colder then a tr6. and i want a 150. just not sure about the timing thing, i figured some say i can run a 150 shot and most likley be ok, so i thought maybe i just run like a 110 in the standalone tank and be ok for sure. i dont know

 

Are you on stock timing? Do you have any way to watch the timing and watch for kr? Have a wideband?

 

yes i am stock timing, and no i dont have any gauges YET. i am working on getting some. so far its jsut spray and pull over and pull a plug or two. but id rather see whats happening when im spraying, like with a KR gauge and an AF wideband. i think with those two gauges id be able to know exactly what my car can handle. it would be very nice to see it handle a 150 shot. but i doubt it. i guess ill just have to see.

 

For the most part we recommend that people run C16 < which is leaded > in the dedicated's. As stated above the amount of fuel that you are using for the nitrous wont affect the 02 sensors at all. You'll be fine running the 110 leaded in the tank.


-Chris

 

so the next huge question is, what is the most reliable way to pull timing when spraying. i have read huge read ups on here. and i still bang my head on the wall. one between daves, and harris, then LPE came in and talked about the 2 step controller. so, with that convo fresh in my head. and people saying not to use IAT trickers cuz they are not consistant. IS THE 2 STEP THE BEST WAY TO PULL TIMING ON DEMAND? and is there anything else out there, id hate to spend 250 dollars or more on something with all those features when i only want to use one feature.

 

I personally am not a fan of using the IAT tricker. Obviously the method is working because have been getting away with using it. However just because people are geting away with it does not mean it it the best method or way of doing it. Personally I prefer to do everything the BEST way possible. This way there is no room for error.

There are many of options out there.
EFI live-Coss5 give you the ability to run a seperate tune for nitrous.

Easy plug and play is Lingerfelter, timing tuner, and timing twister.

We have done alot in the past with the timing tuner which plugs in at the crank sensor. No tuning software needed.

I now prefer the Lingerfelter. Which plugs in at the coil pack connectors. It also has the ability to retard uo to 15 degrees with no tuning software. It has a 5 volt reference wire you can hook up to varify you are pulling timing. You have to hook it to HP tuners for that.

Dave

 

Thanks dave, i appreciate that. im not familiar with the coss5 or what ever you wrote there, you said the ability run a seperate tune for nitrous? thas ok though, looks like the real answer here is the LPE 2 step. since i dont have access to a real reliable tuner. looks like im gonna have to learn to tune on my own. lol.

 

Well if you do not have access to a reliable tuner a wet system with the Lingerfelter is deffintly the way to go. You can tune the airfuel and timing for nitrous with out ever touching the PCM tune. Using the IAT method will only pull a few degrees with out getting into the computer with tuning software and altering some tables.

The most reliable and precise way would deffintly be the lingenfelter.
Dave

 

well sounds like a good start then. but just to make sure i can hit this with the 100 shot on stock tune and be good? 2004 ls1 gto. hell i been told i could do a 150 shot. i dont think ill do that though. ngk br7ef. .035 gap. stock timing. 100 shot be good right.?

 

IMO the Lingenfelter is the best unit on the market right now < Other than HP Tuners and other computer program tuning software > that you can use to pull timing. It has a referencing wire that you can hook to HP tuners to actaully see the timing being pulled so you know its working.

-Chris

 

Right out of the box the interface is going to be able to pull 8 degrees for you. Obviously more than enough to cover your needs. I would pretty much disregard all the internet bs you hear about it not being consistent, its all marketing tactics. The interface WILL consistently and reliably pull that exact amount of timing everytime you use it. I don't make a ton of money, so my car means A LOT to me, just as much as yours probably means to you. I wouldn't put anything on it that wasn't consistently going to do what its supposed to do. I have the interface on my car controlling my dry direct port and timing and it works incredibly well for me. If it didn't, our product or not, it wouldn't be on the car.

There are lots of fine methods out there, i wouldn't let anyone convince you there is a best method. Some have features the others dont have, for instance the interface is the only timing device out there that you can physically see the timing being pulled on a data log. The crazy part about its features is the A/F control is actually the main feature, not just timing. Wet shot, dry shot, pre-maf, post maf, nozzles, plates, DP, it can actually help you dial in anyone of those. All that for under 200 bucks.

The best timing device out there is simply the one that fits your needs. You may want to pull timing through the tune, through the interface, timing tuner, lingefelter are all viable ways of pulling timing. I'm not much of a sales man and im not gonna say this is the best way, knowing there are many out there. BUT it could be the best method for you.