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LS2 GTO 125shot Timing?

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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 02:18 PM
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Default LS2 GTO 125shot Timing?

My cars been tuned for 2 weeks now for a 125 wet shot it runs great but then when we started to ask around we had people telling us it could probably run better. Basically before we tuned it for spray the timing was 2 degrees above stock so when we went to start playing with the spray we reset the tune back to stock an pulled 3 1/2 degrees due to seeing knock. Then when we made some calls most of the people were telling us we were seeing most likely false knock an that we should be able to run the car as is from the factory with a 125 shot with no problems. The cars completely stock besides no cats for wideban purposes. I just wanted to know if we should be pulling timing or if factory timing is cool. It does feel like we pulled alittle to much timing but I'd rather be safe then sorry.

Last edited by JCamaro84z; Nov 7, 2009 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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You ls2 engine is very efficient and pulling a few degrees of timing is not going to kill your N/A performance a whole lot. Being dead on with the AFR is much more important than trying to get as much timing as you can out of it.
False KR i would think is going to be between 4800-5200rpm.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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i would trust your knock readings personally...
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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I would pull the plugs and adjust fuel/timing based off the plug readings. Next thing would be to get a timing tuner from lpe, that way you can keep stock timing when your running na. Then have the tt pull timing when the nitrous activates.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Yeah we pulled plugs an they look good pretty much dead on. I think were gonna take a few pulls later this week to check out the afr's more an we might mess with the timing alittle being were slowgoat said is about the spot were getting the knock. If it does seem off abit with the knock i'll probably not mess with that.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 11:38 PM
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We have just noticed that there is a vibration or harmonic in alot of 05-06 gtos around that rpm range at WOT in 3rd gear that messes with the knock sensors.
The best way for you to tell if its false is to take 5* addl timing out in the cells you are seeing knock and see if its still there. If yes then its false if its gone than its probably real.
Make a few hits to make sure its consistant
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:51 AM
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Yeah they told me yesterday thats exactly where they saw it between 4400rpm to 5400 I think there just gonna end up putting back the 1 an half degrees of timing an going from there. It just feels sluggish on its own now but that might be because there's spray there if i wanted it to be but i'm not sure. I know he advanced the timing abit after i first bought the car but then reset it back to stock when we went to tune it with the nitrous.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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everything feels sluggish without juice.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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i guarantee you won't notice any seat of the pants difference if you remove 2deg out of the optimum stock n/a tune.
the only way you are gonna see results is at the track. so get the n/a dialed in first, then do not deviate from the rule of thumb.... " 2deg retard for every 50hp shot added".

if you do not have any resources to dial in the tune, i would recomend to take 3 out of the stock values. above all, like slowgoat said, get the afr ckd.
i bet your ride will run better with 20* and 12.2afr on the 125 if the flow is optimal!!!

if you do not trust the high tech audio device and ignore it, your gonna hurt the motor.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jetblast
i guarantee you won't notice any seat of the pants difference if you remove 2deg out of the optimum stock n/a tune.
the only way you are gonna see results is at the track. so get the n/a dialed in first, then do not deviate from the rule of thumb.... " 2deg retard for every 50hp shot added".

if you do not have any resources to dial in the tune, i would recomend to take 3 out of the stock values. above all, like slowgoat said, get the afr ckd.
i bet your ride will run better with 20* and 12.2afr on the 125 if the flow is optimal!!!

if you do not trust the high tech audio device and ignore it, your gonna hurt the motor.
What were thinking right now is it's most likely lower then 18* an the afr's are 11.8 maybe even 11.4 or 11.3's when you start to roll into it. We had to bump up to the next size jet on the fuel side after having it go way lean in the higher rpms an now its running about were i just said. I just went out an picked up a couple jets to hopefully fix that. The guy we were talking to about getting more out of it said the same exact thing though 20* an 12.2afr's thats what lead me to making this post.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JCamaro84z
What were thinking right now is it's most likely lower then 18* an the afr's are 11.8 maybe even 11.4 or 11.3's when you start to roll into it. We had to bump up to the next size jet on the fuel side after having it go way lean in the higher rpms an now its running about were i just said. I just went out an picked up a couple jets to hopefully fix that. The guy we were talking to about getting more out of it said the same exact thing though 20* an 12.2afr's thats what lead me to making this post.
don't pay too much emphasis on reaching 12.2, just try to inch up to 11.8 with the timing you have now.
once you reach and you consistently pull those values, then you can put a new set of plugs in at the track and pull them right after the run.
you should clearly see the timing mark on a new plug. then you'll know if you need to go to 20*, and who knows the afr might just inch up to 12.2 with just the timing adjustment. good luck!
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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the timing tables stock on the goat are fairly conservative, but imho i would always rather be safe than sorry. You wont notice that little timing gone n/a.
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